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Dead rabbit m Rta or wotofo profile x Rta

Rockzilla1

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Joined
Nov 21, 2022
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23
Hi

I want to know what every one would pick out of this 2 rta’s

the dead rabbit m Rta

or

the wotofo profile x Rta
 
Hi

I want to know what every one would pick out of this 2 rta’s

the dead rabbit m Rta

or

the wotofo profile x Rta
Like John says no need for multiple posts, just cos you don't get an answer straight away, anyway out of those 2 I've owned the profile x & it was utter dog shit didn't matter what build you put in you got no flavour what so ever, the dead rabbit I've not used but from what I've seen it's exactly the same as the Kylin M which I do have & use on a daily process.
 
I bought a Dead Rabbit M for my daughter and its a decent RTA. Not as good as the Profile Unity though, if you can find one of those.

Whichever mesh RTA you buy, definitely pair it up with some OFRF KA1 mesh strips or the Vandy Vape KA1 mesh roll. I've tried just about every type of mesh available and these two are the standouts.
 
I can’t get the resistance right on the wotofo how can I fix that, I this is why I want to know what people think of the 2 different rtas
 
Resistance is a constant for a given length, type, mass of mesh, it should be the same for any atty you fit it to.
 
I can’t get the resistance right on the wotofo how can I fix that, I this is why I want to know what people think of the 2 different rtas

If you're using a regulated mod where you can manually adjust the wattage then a small variation of the resistance isn't of any great importance. Most mesh strips tend to be low resistance and the stated resistance on the mesh strip packaging tends to be FAIRLY accurate, but it can vary. If you buy a pack of mesh strips rated at 0.13 ohms - and your mod informs you it is in fact 0.11 (or 0.15) don't worry as 0.02 Ohms difference isn't really a problem as you still get to choose the actual wattage you vape at - and you can adjust the wattage up or down to your preference. In addition, most mainstream Chinese mods aren't always that accurate at reading resistance - for example, I'm currently vaping on a Sherman 25 RDA with a 0.15 build - all my DNA mods read it at 0.15 so I'm confident 0.15 is accurate, if I put the same RDA on some of my budget Chinese mods the displayed resistance will be anything from 0.14 to 0.17 - this isn't a problem as if the board sends a little too much, or not enough, power to the coils because of the inaccurate reading I can always adjust the wattage to taste.

If you're getting wildly varying ohm readings then you have a problem (probably a loose screw clamping the coil or a loose 510 pin) but if the reading is only about 0.02 - 0,03 from what you were expecting and you constantly get the same reading then I wouldn't worry about it.

However, if you're using a mechanical mod - then it could be a BIG problem. but I wouldn't advise anyone to use mesh on a mech...
 
If you're using a regulated mod where you can manually adjust the wattage then a small variation of the resistance isn't of any great importance. Most mesh strips tend to be low resistance and the stated resistance on the mesh strip packaging tends to be FAIRLY accurate, but it can vary. If you buy a pack of mesh strips rated at 0.13 ohms - and your mod informs you it is in fact 0.11 (or 0.15) don't worry as 0.02 Ohms difference isn't really a problem as you still get to choose the actual wattage you vape at - and you can adjust the wattage up or down to your preference. In addition, most mainstream Chinese mods aren't always that accurate at reading resistance - for example, I'm currently vaping on a Sherman 25 RDA with a 0.15 build - all my DNA mods read it at 0.15 so I'm confident 0.15 is accurate, if I put the same RDA on some of my budget Chinese mods the displayed resistance will be anything from 0.14 to 0.17 - this isn't a problem as if the board sends a little too much, or not enough, power to the coils because of the inaccurate reading I can always adjust the wattage to taste.

If you're getting wildly varying ohm readings then you have a problem (probably a loose screw clamping the coil or a loose 510 pin) but if the reading is only about 0.02 - 0,03 from what you were expecting and you constantly get the same reading then I wouldn't worry about it.

However, if you're using a mechanical mod - then it could be a BIG problem. but I wouldn't advise anyone to use mesh on a mech...

I am using the nexMESH Turbo A1 0.13 ohms that customs with the wotofo and it comes out at 0.18 ohms on 3 of my mods and over 0.20 ohm on another one I have. all the mesh strips it came with all come out as 0.18 ohms or over.
 
I am using the nexMESH Turbo A1 0.13 ohms that customs with the wotofo and it comes out at 0.18 ohms on 3 of my mods and over 0.20 ohm on another one I have. all the mesh strips it came with all come out as 0.18 ohms or over.

That is unusually high - sometimes you can have a bad connection somewhere inside the atomiser that creates extra resistance (and can cause the atomiser itself to heat up). If the grubscrews are tight and the mesh is being firmly clamped and the 510 is securely tightened try stripping and cleaning the atomiser - if there is an extra screw head on the base of the atomiser holding the negative in place make sure to remove it and give the negative side a good clean to make sure it is contacting properly. Also - clean the 510 pin as sometimes a bit of juice can bake on there and cause problems. Hopefully that will sort it.
 
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