How to use ni200 and temp control

[Dagger]

Hi guys

Ok so I've been playing with ni200 and temp control this week and have a couple of queries,

When using kanthal, I dry burn and rewick when changing flavour, do I do the same with ni200? Turn the temp way up to make the coils glow, pulse then rewick? Tried dry burning at my set 410 and it didn't really do much

I've coiled my subtank mini to 0.12 with ni200, 3mm coil I think 10 wrap 0.32 set to 410 at 25w and yes it works and works fine but it's just not as satisfying as a kanthal build, kanthal I get a warm dense vape I can feel, the ni200 build is cool, good vapour but doesn't feel as dense. I feel myself puffing longer to find that 'I'm full' feeling at which point the temp limiting kicks in and I get the stop start stop start vape feeling on the inhale.
Any tips on building or using temp control for a more satisfying vape?
Tubbyengineer shouting you if you don't mind, I remember you use dna40

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Hi guys

Ok so I've been playing with ni200 and temp control this week and have a couple of queries,

When using kanthal, I dry burn and rewick when changing flavour, do I do the same with ni200? Turn the temp way up to make the coils glow, pulse then rewick? Tried dry burning at my set 410 and it didn't really do much

I've coiled my subtank mini to 0.12 with ni200, 3mm coil I think 10 wrap 0.32 set to 410 at 25w and yes it works and works fine but it's just not as satisfying as a kanthal build, kanthal I get a warm dense vape I can feel, the ni200 build is cool, good vapour but doesn't feel as dense. I feel myself puffing longer to find that 'I'm full' feeling at which point the temp limiting kicks in and I get the stop start stop start vape feeling on the inhale.
Any tips on building or using temp control for a more satisfying vape?
@Tubbyengineer shouting you if you don't mind, I remember you use dna40

You won't get as much heat from a temp regulated build - by limiting the temp to 410 you are quite literally cooling the vapour down, if you want more vapour then turn up the watts but you really need to be drawing on the tank quite hard - if heat builds up you will get the temp protected message, However it sounds like your problem is just airflow, open the airflow a bit and try again. I have noticed that when using a Gimlet tank which is similar to the subtank the vape is not as warm or as dense as when I use my Kayfun 4. I'm not sure if it's down to the chimney coil or some subtle factor of the atty's design.

If you want to dry burn your coils you'll need to turn off the temp control and turn the watts down a bit - do all the usual stuff then pulse until the coil glows gently, this is a good time to check for hotspots - as always the coil should glow evenly from the middle outwards. If it heats more off to one side than the other then you need to gently seperate the turns in that section, a pair of very pointy tweezers works well for that - just use the points to gently push the turns left or right depending on where you have most space in the coil. It doesn't need to be much just enough to seperate the turns. Once you've done that pulse it again and you should get a nice even glow - dont let them get white hot though or the coil will break.

Follow the above steps whenever you put in a new coil and whenever you dry burn the coil will last for 2 or three weeks with careful maintenance and rewicking.

As for building coils - Well thats mostly practice - I watched PBusardo's DNA 40 review yesterday and I thought whilst it was his usual great technical review he kind of brushed over the coiling aspect - and what he did do was not much use - I built coils like that when I first started building RBA's.
I use twisted 0.25 Pure Nickel wire, I twist it very tightly so there are a lot of twists per inch, once I've got a length of twisted wire I then wrap as tightly and as closely as posible on a coil jig - but a screwdriver would work just as well. Keep the coil on your former and make sure the wraps are pushed together as tightly as possible, you'll find they still want to spring apart slightly, thats OK - in fact it's essential. Now using the former to hold the coil in shape attach it to your terminals keeping coil legs as short as possible, tighten everything up and follow the procedure for dry burning above. Once the coil is glowing evenly, wick it and soak with juice, you should find everything works just fine and the coil should be nice and stable.

 

[Phantom Diablo]

just to add on what Tubby said. i also use a gimlet tank ( though its on a smok xpro m80 plus with the new firmware not a dna40 ). and yes i have found it a little cooler than my kayfun or orchid , but once i ramped it up a little higher to 500 degrees the vape is now a little warmer and gives a solid flavour and big clouds without having to feel like im inhaling until my eyes pop. one thing i have found also is on the xpro it takes about half a second or so to hit the tempurature. if i vape straight away its a little cooler than if i wait an extra second before taking a pull but each and every hit is always spot on with no dry harsh hits.
i think flavour also makes a huge difference too of course.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

just to add on what Tubby said. i also use a gimlet tank ( though its on a smok xpro m80 plus with the new firmware not a dna40 ). and yes i have found it a little cooler than my kayfun or orchid , but once i ramped it up a little higher to 500 degrees the vape is now a little warmer and gives a solid flavour and big clouds without having to feel like im inhaling until my eyes pop. one thing i have found also is on the xpro it takes about half a second or so to hit the tempurature. if i vape straight away its a little cooler than if i wait an extra second before taking a pull but each and every hit is always spot on with no dry harsh hits.
i think flavour also makes a huge difference too of course.

Yeah, I'm turning the Gimlet up to 500f from the 360 I use on the KF4, I think airflow is aking a huge difference as is the chimney coil type head...

 

[dw117]

I've seen varying opinions on this but I'm now either very careful with dry burning my Ni200 builds or I just avoid doing it at all now.

Had a couple that were ruined from dry burning, one I fired too high and the heat caused the coil to sag in the middle, which is obviously my fault.

Another I very carefully pulsed it at something low like 8-10W with no TC on and afterwards the vape I was getting just wasn't right. TC would kick in very early and to get the same vape I was getting I had to raise the temp to well over 500F (from 430-450F) so I just gave up and re-coiled.

Now I just clean and re-wick and it works better. If the coil is getting gunky some gentle brushing with a toothbrush or even a flathead screwdriver can help get rid of it. They don't last forever but with practice I've become much quicker at doing Ni200 rebuilds...