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Mech mods and batteries - check my calculation

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Feb 12, 2015
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Long story short: I might buy a mech mod tomorrow. I don't know if I will, but it is a possibility.

What kind of advice would you give to a new mech mod user? Keep in mind that I'm not 100% new, but I did not use a mech mod before.

For example, assuming that I am using an authentic Sony VTC5 rated at 3.7 Volts with a 0.3ohm build - it will draw 12.3 Amps which is completely safe because the battery can push up to 30A. I worked this out on pen & paper (want to make sure I can do it this way first before moving to "cheating" with calculator). Is this calculation correct and safe?

Since the wattage is completely dependent on resistance in mech mods, how do you deal with wattage? What i mean is, you can't control the wattage, how do coils handle this? I am worried about putting a build in there that is quite low in resistance and the coil just melts due to shear amount of heat produced. I worked out, without complete accuracy, that a 0.3ohm build with a single Sony VTC5 (3.7V) will produce between 43-47 watts which is completely fine for most build that I use at 0.3. I kinda answered my own question here, but the real question is - does this paragraph make sense?

0.1ohm build with a Sony VTC5 (3.7V) will draw 33A+, i didn't work out the exact number but the fact that it is over 30Amps means that the battery can potentially vent and or blow up, in other words = bad. Is this assumtion correct?

I simply want some to check these assumptions.

And finally, any suggestions for a nice and cheap first (and probably last) mech mod? I just want to give it a try, not planning on using mechs as my ADV.

Edit: I really don't want to spend more than £20 on a mech mod, so most likely will have to be a clone. Anyone can suggest some good quality clones? I really don't want to end up buying a bad clone, since consequences of having a fault are a lot worse than with regulated mods that happen to be bad.
 
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Long story short: I might buy a mech mod tomorrow. I don't know if I will, but it is a possibility.

What kind of advice would you give to a new mech mod user? Keep in mind that I'm not 100% new, but I did not use a mech mod before.

For example, assuming that I am using an authentic Sony VTC5 rated at 3.7 Volts with a 0.3ohm build - it will draw 12.3 Amps which is completely safe because the battery can push up to 30A. I worked this out on pen & paper (want to make sure I can do it this way first before moving to "cheating" with calculator). Is this calculation correct and safe?

Since the wattage is completely dependent on resistance in mech mods, how do you deal with wattage? What i mean is, you can't control the wattage, how do coils handle this? I am worried about putting a build in there that is quite low in resistance and the coil just melts due to shear amount of heat produced. I worked out, without complete accuracy, that a 0.3ohm build with a single Sony VTC5 (3.7V) will produce between 43-47 watts which is completely fine for most build that I use at 0.3. I kinda answered my own question here, but the real question is - does this paragraph make sense?

0.3ohm build with a Sony VTC5 (3.7V) will draw 33A+, i didn't work out the exact number but the fact that it is over 30Amps means that the battery can potentially vent and or blow up, in other words = bad. Is this assumtion correct?

I simply want some to check these assumptions.

And finally, any suggestions for a nice and cheap first (and probably last) mech mod? I just want to give it a try, not planning on using mechs as my ADV.

Go for it...Just a few heads up. When working out your amperage always use 4.2Volts, 3.7V is the nominal voltage...a fully charged battery is between 4.1-4.2V.

0.30 -0.40ohm is a reasonably sensible build and will have good ramp up time for the coils. 4.2V at 0.30ohms will draw 14amps from the battery and will create 58.80watts. Mecs tend to heat the coils more gently than a regulated mod so the wattage I have mentioned wont feel as high as it does on a reg mod. Don't forget as the battery drains so will the wattage decrease.

For your first mec I would recommend not getting a hybrid at first, but there again always check that the pin on your atty is protruding and that the screw is secure and does not offer the possibility of a hard short.

Copper or brass mecs generally hit harder than stainless.
 
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Indeed despite having a fair bit to play with a tube mech is 'the real deal' and probably the best vape out there.

Indeed work to max and minimums.
Always use the max for your battery e.g. 4.2v and the min for your build, by which i mean if you build a 0.33 - call it 0.3, its only a little i know but at least you can be sure you're operating under best prepared thinking.

I find that tubes with magnets as opposed to springs in the switch hit nicer and also have the added bonus of not going weak with wear/low builds killing them.

Wotofo do prob one of the cheapest authentics out there, the phantom i think its called. About 30quid, can't remember the switch set up on it though.
 
The Phantom comes with a choice of two springs of different poundage. Springs Vs Magnets, it depends on the mod. If there is a lot of play between the fire button shaft and the button housing it can lead to poor conductivity as you are relying on the shaft making contact in the housing or the magnets touching (and the conductivity between them). Where as with a good quality gold or silver plated spring it is itself making a good circuit between the two.
 
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