TEMP MODE. KOOPOR MINI

[nc30cbr6]

hi. just starting to use temp mode on my koopor mini. i have just made a coil reading 0.16Ohms. i have the NI TCR set to 0.00620 and the Aio is showing 0185 . temp is set at 200F and showing TEMPERATURE PROTECTED as soon as i hit the fire button. any ideas? cheers joe

 

[SirLugg]

200f is a very low temperature Joe, in vaping nickel at around 450f juice dependant, It'll get to 200f pretty much immediately. When it displays temperature protected it just means it's reached the limit that you've set it to. What wire have you used?

 

[nc30cbr6]

i have used 30g ni200 with 6 wraps i think. reading 0.18ohms on the reader. iv just noticed that with it set to 250f its showing temp protected almost immediately but i can keep fire button pressed and still get vapor from it. either im just daft thinking its not working or im missing something haha

 

[SirLugg]

It's definitely Fahrenheit you've got it set at and not centigrade?

If it's Fahrenheit it's simply too low a temperature.

 

[danb]

@nc30cbr6 as has been said, you have set the temp far too low. I find the 390-440F (200-225C) range is best for me.

I would expect no vapour at all at 250F.

 

[nc30cbr6]

Iv got it working ok now between 350f and 380f. Anything over 400f just gives a burnt taste straight away. What could i expect by adding a few more wraps on the coil?? Also what would u guys recommend for big clouds and good flavor. E.g material/resistance / wattage or temp etc??

 

[danb]

Iv got it working ok now between 350f and 380f. Anything over 400f just gives a burnt taste straight away. What could i expect by adding a few more wraps on the coil??

Can you give full specs of the coil: Wire gauge, diameter of coils (you didn't post this), number of coils and base resistance reading?

If you get burning at 400F, you might have a static resistance problem - comparing the theoretical resistance with your full coil specs will give an indication of whether this is the case.

Adding more wraps increases resistance, which improves the accuracy of temperature measurement. If your coil is really 0.18 Ohm, there is no need to add more wraps, but I suspect it is actually substantially lower. For 6 wraps with 30g, you'd need to be wrapping 4 mm diameter coils, which is not impossible but unlikely.

 

[nc30cbr6]

to be honest i dont know the diameter of the coils im just wrapping them around a screw driver. pretty much the same size as the spares provided with the subtank mini though....... its 30gauge ni200 wire and what do you mean base resistance? when put on the ohm reader was showing 0.18.
its all a bit confusing for me haha i just want to build a coil and kane it and make big clouds that taste nice

 

[danb]

to be honest i dont know the diameter of the coils im just wrapping them around a screw driver. pretty much the same size as the spares provided with the subtank mini though....... its 30gauge ni200 wire and what do you mean base resistance? when put on the ohm reader was showing 0.18.
its all a bit confusing for me haha i just want to build a coil and kane it and make big clouds that taste nice

OK, I think those screwdrivers are somewhere between 2 and 2.5 mm, in which case the coil should read about 0.10-0.12 Ohm. By base resistance, I mean the resistance the mod reads at room temp.

This explains why your juice is burning at 400F. You have what is called "static resistance". This is a resistance contribution from imperfect contacts in your setup. When the mod calculates temperature, it does so assuming that the static resistance is zero, and that all resistance is from the coil - this means that if you do have a static resistance, the mod will underestimate the temperature (i.e. the coil will be hotter than the mod thinks), causing burning at "safe" temp settings. Some tanks and mods are more susceptible to this problem than others.

Now, you don't have to do anything about it provided the static resistance is constant, you can compensate for it by vaping at a lower temp setting - just find your sweet spot by trial and error and ignore the numbers. Treat it like setting the temperature of the water in a shower.

Or you can check all your contacts are tight, clean threading and so on to try and eliminate/reduce the static resistance. If you have another mod or an ohmmeter, you can measure the resistance on that and check to see if the mod or the tank is the culprit.

To find your sweet spot, just gradually increase the temp until you start to get a good amount of warm vapour (make a mental not of that setting), then gradually increase until you start to detect a faint burning taste (make a not of that setting). There you have your preferred range, now play around in that range and see where the juice tastes best. If big clouds are a priority, then TC is probably not the best option for you.