0.05 ohm mod?

[SirLugg]

Amp limit has nothing to do with it. The only "amp" you need to think about is the "sustained amps".. How many amps the battery can safely sustain over a 5-15 second firing.
Never go by the amps printed on the label. 30/20 amps means 20 amp sustained.. the 30 is essentially bogus. What you do need is a low internal resistance inside the battery. I'm not into mechs yet, but that can be found on the batteries data sheet. For example.. I just took a puff at 158w, on a 20 amp battery.. it says 25/20 or something.. the amps went up to just over 28 on my display, BUT that was only for a 2.5 second hit.32.5 amp at 200w for 2.95 seconds. OH my build is 0.18 ohm btw.

Now the important thing is I don't buy cheap batteries. I ask Jason, the Mech specialist at the vape shop, he tells me which batteries to buy. He knows I don't give a rats behind about a few extra $$$ where batteries are concerned.
Another bit of info.. the internal resistance of a battery lowers as you use it.. so you will get a bigger cloud on your 3rd pull than you did on your first. That's just a bit of info you don't really need much, but good to know. You probably noticed that on a lot of the build videos where the guy builds on a mech.. each cloud is a little bigger than the last one when he vapes the coil.

Right, I'm not getting into any form of debate over this and it's highly unlikely i'm going to elaborate on this reply.
But, you coming onto a forum with a lot of newer and less experienced vapers advocating stupidly low builds and to exceed the CDR of a battery- let alone the pulse rating- is irresponsible as hell.

You may not give two shits about your own health and well being but when you're in the public domain and Joe public can find your ramblings from a Google search you seriously need to stop advocating that being irresponsible is either acceptable or cool.

Really, really silly post. And that is the diluted and edited response.

 

[gbalkam]

Right, I'm not getting into any form of debate over this and it's highly unlikely i'm going to elaborate on this reply.
But, you coming onto a forum with a lot of newer and less experienced vapers advocating stupidly low builds and to exceed the CDR of a battery- let alone the pulse rating- is irresponsible as hell.

You may not give two shits about your own health and well being but when you're in the public domain and Joe public can find your ramblings from a Google search you seriously need to stop advocating that being irresponsible is either acceptable or cool.

Really, really silly post.

That's good, since pulse rating is a myth.

Note: this is not my blog. It is an advanced user from another forum, and the guy that explained how mechs fire in the first 0-5 seconds.

Links to all my battery tests to date: List of My Battery Tests | Mooch's Blog
My battery ratings and safety grades table: Battery Safety Grades | Mooch's Blog

Perhaps you should also learn to read, I never said I built a 0.05 ohm mod, I was saying this other clown was doing it. Hell, I won't even go below my 0.1 ohm.

The actual original post was, did anyone know of a regulated box that would even go that low.

 

[Fellowgecko]

Amp limit has nothing to do with it. The only "amp" you need to think about is the "sustained amps".. How many amps the battery can safely sustain over a 5-15 second firing.
Never go by the amps printed on the label. 30/20 amps means 20 amp sustained.. the 30 is essentially bogus. What you do need is a low internal resistance inside the battery. I'm not into mechs yet, but that can be found on the batteries data sheet. For example.. I just took a puff at 158w, on a 20 amp battery.. it says 25/20 or something.. the amps went up to just over 28 on my display, BUT that was only for a 2.5 second hit.32.5 amp at 200w for 2.95 seconds. OH my build is 0.18 ohm btw.

Now the important thing is I don't buy cheap batteries. I ask Jason, the Mech specialist at the vape shop, he tells me which batteries to buy. He knows I don't give a rats behind about a few extra $$$ where batteries are concerned.
Another bit of info.. the internal resistance of a battery lowers as you use it.. so you will get a bigger cloud on your 3rd pull than you did on your first. That's just a bit of info you don't really need much, but good to know. You probably noticed that on a lot of the build videos where the guy builds on a mech.. each cloud is a little bigger than the last one when he vapes the coil.

OH and btw.. lol I wouldn't put that build on anything. Like I said, that guy was a statistic waiting to happen.

So you're sure that the 2nd and 3rd pull didn't make larger clouds (bro), because the coil had already been heated up by the 1st?

Just a thought

 

[gbalkam]

So you're sure that the 2nd and 3rd pull didn't make larger clouds (bro), because the coil had already been heated up by the 1st?

Just a thought

Ok, first of all... what I am going to say next is advanced user information, and unless you are a competitive cloud chaser, really has on bearing on your day to day vaping. That being said, you will have to look up and do your own research beyond what I tell you here. If you don't... it is your butt.. not mine.

The coil does play some part in it, yes. (2nd puff will be bigger than the first, after that, not really, since the coil is already heated) More importantly is that each hit will in fact make bigger clouds than the once before it, but not because of the coil. It is because as you use a battery it heats up, as it heats, the internal resistance of the battery lowers. The lower the internal resistance, the faster it can deliver power to the coil, the faster it delivers power to the coil, the faster it discharges, and the faster it discharges, the more heat it generates inside the battery, and the more heat inside the battery, the lower the internal resistance.. and so on until .... BOOM!!!!

Now it is totally up to you to do the research and find out how many puffs you can safely do on your batteries. This applies mostly to mech mods,

Regulated is a bit different, The warm coil will make very slightly bigger clouds one a regulated up to a point. The 3rd pull on a reg mod wont be any bigger than the 2nd pull, since the coil was heated from the first pull.

now a note on "amp limit" It doesn't exist beyond the constant discharge amp limit (usually 20).
The "burst" or "Pulse" limit is bullshit and anyone mentioning these as a factor needs to shut up before they hurt someone.. It is generally just a number printed on the label that means very little. Here is why..
Several factors determine how much power your mod can pull.. your amps in other words. 20 sustained is easy to see.. Now if you take a 0.1 sub ohm coil.. that is very low resistance.. you have Hmm say 3.6v from your battery. Now that battery that says 30/20 - 3000mah is actually delivering (in one case) 88 amps for x number of seconds. You have to figure out how many seconds on your own.

http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp

Usually the way advanced users do that, is by feel. If the battery starts getting hot, you stop firing and be ready to eject it from your mod as fast as you can. Even if you found a chart on how many amps max a battery can put out for exactly how many seconds, I would only use that as "interesting information". But not as a battery user guild. No way to know how much charge your battery has or how many times you recharged it, from a chart, right?

Now this information is just to get you pointed at what to look for, in answer to your question. But you will have to do all the actual homework and calculations for yourself. Don't trust anyone else to do them for you, but you can get someone to check your work until you get comfortable with it.

 

[Fellowgecko]

Not sure what you're preaching here but I'm out

 

[darroharro]

@Fellowgecko Irony/sarcasm really doesn't travel very well over the pond does it?! [emoji6]

 

[bergkamp]

Don't want to get into the whole safety thing but the I power says it goes down to 0.05 ohm in tc mode
Just saying , don't shoot me !
http://www.eleafworld.com/ipower/

 

[9668harry]

The coil does play some part in it, yes. (2nd puff will be bigger than the first, after that, not really, since the coil is already heated) More importantly is that each hit will in fact make bigger clouds than the once before it, but not because of the coil. It is because as you use a battery it heats up, as it heats, the internal resistance of the battery lowers.

Mmm, not massively convinced with this theory. Well it is true that certain cell internal resistances (depending on chemistry of said cell) can lower at elevated temperatures, the overall resistance of the mod and atty itself increases under the same elevated temperature loads. It would be my guess that the gain given by a heated cell would be negated by the increased resistance of the hardware used. The voltage of the cell will also be decreasing after each and every operation of the mod, certainly when your talking really low builds and high amp draws.

The significant factor here as already mentioned, is the fact that after a couple of goes on the device there will be plenty of residual heat left in the atty/coil to boost the performance when compared to the original cold pull, like a preheat of sorts.

 

[gbalkam]

Ok, first of all... what I am going to say next is advanced user information, and unless you are a competitive cloud chaser, really has on bearing on your day to day vaping. That being said, you will have to look up and do your own research beyond what I tell you here. If you don't... it is your butt.. not mine.

The coil does play some part in it, yes. (2nd puff will be bigger than the first, after that, not really, since the coil is already heated) More importantly is that each hit will in fact make bigger clouds than the once before it, but not because of the coil. It is because as you use a battery it heats up, as it heats, the internal resistance of the battery lowers. The lower the internal resistance, the faster it can deliver power to the coil, the faster it delivers power to the coil, the faster it discharges, and the faster it discharges, the more heat it generates inside the battery, and the more heat inside the battery, the lower the internal resistance.. and so on until .... BOOM!!!!

Now it is totally up to you to do the research and find out how many puffs you can safely do on your batteries. This applies mostly to mech mods,

Regulated is a bit different, The warm coil will make very slightly bigger clouds one a regulated up to a point. The 3rd pull on a reg mod wont be any bigger than the 2nd pull, since the coil was heated from the first pull.

now a note on "amp limit" It doesn't exist beyond the constant discharge amp limit (usually 20).
The "burst" or "Pulse" limit is bullshit and anyone mentioning these as a factor needs to shut up before they hurt someone.. It is generally just a number printed on the label that means very little. Here is why..
Several factors determine how much power your mod can pull.. your amps in other words. 20 sustained is easy to see.. Now if you take a 0.1 sub ohm coil.. that is very low resistance.. you have Hmm say 3.6v from your battery. Now that battery that says 30/20 - 3000mah is actually delivering (in one case) 88 amps for x number of seconds. You have to figure out how many seconds on your own.

http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp

Usually the way advanced users do that, is by feel. If the battery starts getting hot, you stop firing and be ready to eject it from your mod as fast as you can. Even if you found a chart on how many amps max a battery can put out for exactly how many seconds, I would only use that as "interesting information". But not as a battery user guild. No way to know how much charge your battery has or how many times you recharged it, from a chart, right?

Not sure what you're preaching here but I'm out

Im preaching, exactly what you asked.. do the heated coils produce more cloud on the 2nd and 3rd pull.. NO they do not.. 2nd pull yes, 3rd no, as the coil is already heated as much as it is going to be, cooled as much as it is going to get, and then reheated from THAT point on the 3rd pull. Now we know that clouds do get bigger on subsequent pulls, which is what the rest of the post is about.. They get bigger as your battery internal resistance gets lower and it hits harder because of the lower internal resistance. The rest is safety information, about researching your batteries. So if you aren't sure what I'm preaching about, don't worry about how big you can make your clouds. Regulated mods at higher power do just fine up to a point.

 

[gbalkam]

Mmm, not massively convinced with this theory. Well it is true that certain cell internal resistances (depending on chemistry of said cell) can lower at elevated temperatures, the overall resistance of the mod and atty itself increases under the same elevated temperature loads. It would be my guess that the gain given by a heated cell would be negated by the increased resistance of the hardware used. The voltage of the cell will also be decreasing after each and every operation of the mod, certainly when your talking really low builds and high amp draws.

The significant factor here as already mentioned, is the fact that after a couple of goes on the device there will be plenty of residual heat left in the atty/coil to boost the performance when compared to the original cold pull, like a preheat of sorts.

Don't worry about it. That info is more advanced than I am willing to put into practice at this point. I kept it in its simplest form. Which is why I specifically did not mention battery charge, volts, watts, etc etc.. and stated "research this for yourself" and not just rely on the information in a forum. For example.. there is no way anybody here can tell you how many times your battery has been charged. Which of course, affects its fully charged state. See? Just keeping it simple to answer the question. In really simple terms.. think of your coil as a pot of water on the stove.. you heat it until it boils and turn it off. Temp is 100C or 212F. put a thermometer in until the bubbles stop, not turn the stove back on and time how long it takes to reach 100C again. After the initial "ramp up" from cold to boiling.. the time it takes to reboil after x number of seconds will be the same for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th etc boils. Obviously, if the water cools to 99C each time, applying the same heat to get it to 100C the time will be the same. By the way, internal resistance doesn't really apply to regulated mods. The software controls everything.

If you still don't get it, don't worry about it. You will get it when you need to, which is when you need to research it on your own, should you ever choose to do so. Like if you never plan to enter a competition, you probably never need to know this. lol.