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Anyone got one of the vape forward flasks and using with SS?

maxoutput

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Jan 5, 2016
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Hi peeps

Pretty much as the title, my missus has a Lite and i have a classic. Pretty much a standard Wismec board but I'm struggling with TC using 316L

Ive updated the firmware to the latest on both devices but I'm getting hot vapes from both devices with stainless 316L

This happens with the crown .5 stainless coil heads and also with 26g/8 wrap/2.5mm/0.5ohm builds on the crown RBA deck , subtank deck and on my haze rebuildable. (tried contact and spaced)

Strange thing is when using dual 26g/14 wrap/2.5mm coils on my aromamiser both the classic and the lite seem quite happy with the build and report TC readings that i would expect i.e the build runs happily at 35 watts /350c with a nice cool vape after locking in resistance.

I stick on the atty, lock in the resistance at room temp, choose SS so i think I'm good there but the vape is super hot unless i run the watts down under 10, the crown tank or the coil builds spit and pop so i know they are running hot.

Ive also tried the TCR function at .88 and .92 with the same results.

The mod's also report temps of around 120-150c when the vape is hot so im doubtful the temp is being reported correctly. Push the wattage over 20 and we are in the molten vape zone and its very uncomfortable and what i would expect to see on a standard wattage based device at 50-70 watts.

The other thing is that both devices rarely see new atomisers when i swap them , any RX200 or Vape forward peeps have any tricks to get the device to see new Atty's?

Something isn't right, any idea's , cheers all
 
Hi peeps

Pretty much as the title, my missus has a Lite and i have a classic. Pretty much a standard Wismec board but I'm struggling with TC using 316L

Ive updated the firmware to the latest on both devices but I'm getting hot vapes from both devices with stainless 316L

This happens with the crown .5 stainless coil heads and also with 26g/8 wrap/2.5mm/0.5ohm builds on the crown RBA deck , subtank deck and on my haze rebuildable. (tried contact and spaced)

Strange thing is when using dual 26g/14 wrap/2.5mm coils on my aromamiser both the classic and the lite seem quite happy with the build and report TC readings that i would expect i.e the build runs happily at 35 watts /350c with a nice cool vape after locking in resistance.

I stick on the atty, lock in the resistance at room temp, choose SS so i think I'm good there but the vape is super hot unless i run the watts down under 10, the crown tank or the coil builds spit and pop so i know they are running hot.

Ive also tried the TCR function at .88 and .92 with the same results.

The mod's also report temps of around 120-150c when the vape is hot so im doubtful the temp is being reported correctly. Push the wattage over 20 and we are in the molten vape zone and its very uncomfortable and what i would expect to see on a standard wattage based device at 50-70 watts.

The other thing is that both devices rarely see new atomisers when i swap them , any RX200 or Vape forward peeps have any tricks to get the device to see new Atty's?

Something isn't right, any idea's , cheers all

TCR for SS316 is 0.000879 (Haywire 316L)
 
Hi, yes, sorry that is what I'm using, 0.00088 - 0.00092 , the unit reports without decimals so i have set 88 or 92 or using the units SS mode which they state is 316 which should be close to L ?
 
After much fiddling I think this is to do with the fact that either device is quite stubborn at detecting a different atomiser when running SS coils. It detects dual coil builds most of the time but can't differentiate between different single coil builds even if the resistance is in the same ball park as the dual build.

Locking in the resistance of a new build without being asked if its a new coil seems to scupper the TC. I got one of the single builds to be recognised as a new coil earlier and TC worked much better. It then went back to being daft and not seeing new atomisers.

Even my old clone DNA 40 flask knows when a new atty is screwed on every time , even SS coils which immediately switch to wattage mode. Something isn't right with these boards, hopefully a future FW might improve things.

Cheers all
 
Finally got a vape from the builds, not sure why but after countless attempts the unit asked if the coil was new , selected yes and the TC seemed to work ok.

A little extra info for anyone thinking of buying any of the new vapefoward mods, spend your money elsewhere in my opinion.

I thought my classic had button rattle which actually turned out to be the screen flopping around like a sausage up an alley so stripped it down and stuck it back.

Both the white ' lite ' and black ' classic ' have paint chips already despite skins being used from new. The paint is chipping on all the edges not covered by the skin/wraps and inside the case you can actually scrape paint off with your finger nail.

The battery door on the classic also clicks up and down.

These are just cheap units made to look expensive and cosmetically won't last.

With all the you tube reviewers gushing about them I just thought I'd update with some real world findings.

All the best
 
Finally got a vape from the builds, not sure why but after countless attempts the unit asked if the coil was new , selected yes and the TC seemed to work ok.

A little extra info for anyone thinking of buying any of the new vapefoward mods, spend your money elsewhere in my opinion.

I thought my classic had button rattle which actually turned out to be the screen flopping around like a sausage up an alley so stripped it down and stuck it back.

Both the white ' lite ' and black ' classic ' have paint chips already despite skins being used from new. The paint is chipping on all the edges not covered by the skin/wraps and inside the case you can actually scrape paint off with your finger nail.

The battery door on the classic also clicks up and down.

These are just cheap units made to look expensive and cosmetically won't last.

With all the you tube reviewers gushing about them I just thought I'd update with some real world findings.

All the best
Interesting. I was thinking of getting a Stout as I like the form factor. @BonoBP liked the stout I recall but mentioned some issues with the classic
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...lask-stout-100watt-tc-mod.97696/#post-1059428
 
I agree with the issues on the classic with regards to the paint and battery door, i have personally had no issues with SS temp control, or the screen moving, for me the stout and lite seem better made, I would also agree that they are slightly overpriced, you can usually manage to get approx 20% off direct from joyetech.
 
These could have been great mods with a bit more attention to detail. The 510 doesn't seem that well made either as I checked it when I stuck the screen back in place. The gauge of wire used on the positive terminal was also quiet thin .

I'm sure there will be many happy customers but for me they fall short of quality expected at the price point and from vape forward/vaporflask

On a positive note the battery door design on the lite is very good as long as it doesn't wear at the ball hinge.

Thanks for your posts peeps
 
Completely agree absolute garbage when it comes to temp control with SS. Hardly ever resets the atomizers when it should ,reports invalid temps regularly and the worse thing is it constantly switches to wattage mode. Gonna throw this at the wall and buy a decent one.
 
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