disappointed

[CzesiuB]

My coil calculator is telling me that a 1ohm SS316 coil requires 7 wraps of 29awg wire so I'm guessing that's what your coils are.

I'm a big fan of spacing coils because having so much metal surrounding the wet cotton restricts how much juice gets picked up by the airflow. All the flavour comes from the juice so trying to get the airflow to pick up just the right amount so you're not drinking excess juice but where you can get the maximum flavour from having enough juice contained in the vapour is what I always try to aim for.

Leaks are always going to be a problem with atties with fixed airholes on either side that you can't close off. It's similar for me with my squonking drippers but fortunately I can completely close all the airflow holes if I need to.

Close ga28, 8 wraps.
Yes, I do agree with the spacing, but the Ripley building is tight (between 5 and 6mm only), so as made the coils would not fit between the fixing screws (8mm long as supplied).
Regarding the leaking: it really depends from the build... for instance my fav mtl RDA, qp design nio and the wotofo profile rda (OK: rda part of rdta in this case) have the juice ports so low that all juice excess is actually sucked back - hence you would really try hard to oversquonk it to the stage that it would leak.
On the other hand, of course, same wotofo profile ps (dual mesh) RDA - completely different story, you can easily convert the deck into the swimming pool and overflow it ieven in the vertical position.
Bi2hop doesn't leak in horizontal too, despite having the fixed air pins (OK, for hour or so, never tried longer time). Similarly Pyro V2.
The Ripley, contrary, leaks as hell in minutes. It is RDTA, so I think the clue here is the exactly same phenomenon which causes semi-dry hits: poor contact (and therefore poor seal):
in vertical position not tight contact makes poor juice draw
in horizontal position it causes excellent path for pipe to deliver as much juice as the internal pipe diameter allows and then - overfill the chamber and leak.

PS: 3.5mm, wick extended to the level it looks like a small absurd makes it usable.
So the conclusion is: majority of MTL premade coils on the market are 2.5mm. Wick for 2.5mm - does not works.
Yes, you can fit the 3mm wick into 2.5mm coil, no major problem, a bit of squeezing here and relaxing there, but the effect is not impressive still.
3mm coil and 3.5mm wick seem to do the job now, so I will edit my wonderful sale advert giving the tank a week of chance.

PPS: while I do appreciate and really admire your way, e.g. wiring your own coils: I'm in my 50s: eyes are not that good and hands are not that precise as I would like them to be. Plus, I just have checked: while unavailable on Amazon, I've found the 100pcs plain 316L coils for £2. With that cost - I'd say that the time when I play with my bernese mountain dogs is far more valuable than spending it on wiring (yes, I tried... this is hit an miss in my case because of the above reasons).
Last but not least: for each 316 coils (apart from the stealthvape perhaps, they are pretty good) - I give the whole set a good batch with 2-3% hot vinegar (around 80-90C) for some 20 minutes, then water flush and drying.

 

[MarylinC37]

Close ga28, 8 wraps.
Yes, I do agree with the spacing, but the Ripley building is tight (between 5 and 6mm only), so as made the coils would not fit between the fixing screws (8mm long as supplied).
Regarding the leaking: it really depends from the build... for instance my fav mtl RDA, qp design nio and the wotofo profile rda (OK: rda part of rdta in this case) have the juice ports so low that all juice excess is actually sucked back - hence you would really try hard to oversquonk it to the stage that it would leak.
On the other hand, of course, same wotofo profile ps (dual mesh) RDA - completely different story, you can easily convert the deck into the swimming pool and overflow it ieven in the vertical position.
Bi2hop doesn't leak in horizontal too, despite having the fixed air pins (OK, for hour or so, never tried longer time). Similarly Pyro V2.
The Ripley, contrary, leaks as hell in minutes. It is RDTA, so I think the clue here is the exactly same phenomenon which causes semi-dry hits: poor contact (and therefore poor seal):
in vertical position not tight contact makes poor juice draw
in horizontal position it causes excellent path for pipe to deliver as much juice as the internal pipe diameter allows and then - overfill the chamber and leak.

PS: 3.5mm, wick extended to the level it looks like a small absurd makes it usable.
So the conclusion is: majority of MTL premade coils on the market are 2.5mm. Wick for 2.5mm - does not works.
Yes, you can fit the 3mm wick into 2.5mm coil, no major problem, a bit of squeezing here and relaxing there, but the effect is not impressive still.
3mm coil and 3.5mm wick seem to do the job now, so I will edit my wonderful sale advert giving the tank a week of chance.

PPS: while I do appreciate and really admire your way, e.g. wiring your own coils: I'm in my 50s: eyes are not that good and hands are not that precise as I would like them to be. Plus, I just have checked: while unavailable on Amazon, I've found the 100pcs plain 316L coils for £2. With that cost - I'd say that the time when I play with my bernese mountain dogs is far more valuable than spending it on wiring (yes, I tried... this is hit an miss in my case because of the above reasons).
Last but not least: for each 316 coils (apart from the stealthvape perhaps, they are pretty good) - I give the whole set a good batch with 2-3% hot vinegar (around 80-90C) for some 20 minutes, then water flush and drying.

You've just said the most important thing of the lot. Playing with bernese mountain dogs comes ahead of building vape decks any day.

 

[CzesiuB]

I know this probably sounds obvious but, have you oriented the pipes with the angled end in the tank? Just a thought, otherwise the pipes won't feed correctly.

Yes, you cannot assemble the tank correctly if the bottom part of the pipe does not sit in the holes in the bottom of the tank, the small profile on the center tank shaft makes it impossible.

 

[Rickster]

Worth a gander.. https://forum.planetofthevapes.co.uk/threads/ripley-rdta-not-wicking.211706/

 

[CzesiuB]

Worth a gander.. https://forum.planetofthevapes.co.uk/threads/ripley-rdta-not-wicking.211706/

yup, was there too. Use thicker wick, use thinner wick, put the wick into the pipe, 50:50, 70:30...
This tank shall be dropped free behind the enemy lines to keep them busy, as the psychological weapon

 

[Coolie27]

I know this probably sounds a bit bonkers, but, have you tried putting small slithers of cotton down the Xylema’s. This tank drove me to distraction until I got it right. First go was perfect and when I rewicked it, Dry hits! I’ve sussed it by ensuring a little bit of cotton on the ends goes into the pipes. Fluff the ends of the wicks. 2.5 fused Clapton with Muji.

 

[CzesiuB]

I know this probably sounds a bit bonkers, but, have you tried putting small slithers of cotton down the Xylema’s. This tank drove me to distraction until I got it right. First go was perfect and when I rewicked it, Dry hits! I’ve sussed it by ensuring a little bit of cotton on the ends goes into the pipes. Fluff the ends of the wicks. 2.5 fused Clapton with Muji.

Yup, see my above post "put the wick into the pipe".
Well... a simple question: if that is needed, why to use the Dilemma pipes at all? Just run the cotton to the down of the tank, job done, huh? Actually, Galaxies works like that.

 

[Coolie27]

Yup, see my above post "put the wick into the pipe".
Well... a simple question: if that is needed, why to use the Dilemma pipes at all? Just run the cotton to the down of the tank, job done, huh? Actually, Galaxies works like that.

Sorry must have skipped over that bit. You can just run the wicks down, Aesthetically it looks better with the pipes. So I guess it’s your personal preference. If it’s giving you hassle, it’s not worth your peace of mind.

 

[CzesiuB]

OK, so to summarize.
There are several ways of making this device working:
1. 3.5mm cotton. Wick, soak, press firmly against the bottom, pray that it will not rise up.
2. 3.0 or 2.5mm cotton: remove the tubes, mesh and pull the cotton down to the tank section
3. use the cotton to the ID of the coil, leave it not thinned on the top, thin to 1-1.5mm and pull it inside of the pipes down to the tank (NOTE: removal is... "funny, if the cotton will break inside - you will need a needle to push-remove it out).
Any of the above should prevent the dry hits caused by the lack of the liquid delivery.
how I'd improve the design? The top cap should have a profile slightly pressing the cotton to the place where it settles, but it would introduce a risk of the top part touching the coil so unsure if it would be a good idea...