ego vv board in a box mod.

[Uncle Festa]

Hi good people, I've just took delivery of an ego vv board that I plan to fit into a small box mod. Now I know that it puts out 4.2v, 3.7v and 3.3v. What I need to know is, is this board sensitive to input voltage? Ideally I'd like to use 2 18350 batteries in series giving a potential of about 8v output.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice that you can give me. And of course, happy new year to all!

 

[yodadude]

I watch with interest.... I have an ego twist with a dead battery. I've stripped it down, and wondering the same thing.

 

[Chegs]

I have a PCB VV board bought on eBay for under £2,its working voltages for input are between 4.5V & 50V.I wouldn't know how to discover that boards working voltage without risking its destruction if it cannot handle 8 volts.

 

[ebayhomepc]

I have a PCB VV board bought on eBay for under £2,its working voltages for input are between 4.5V & 50V.I wouldn't know how to discover that boards working voltage without risking its destruction if it cannot handle 8 volts.

Lm2596?

I have one setup with a old router power supply works great and never had any issues

 

[KulrMeStoopid]

Tubbyengineer might be able to help with this one?

 

[ocd13]

I tried stacked 350's on an ego VV board but it killed the board instantly.
Why would you want to run the batteries in series when you can run them parallel and have twice the battery life.
As far as I know the ago vv battery I took apart was just your standard 4.2v at max charge so the board has to be step up/down
for it to be able to offer a consistent 4.2 V

 

[davidegee]

As above, there is no need to stack the batteries. The board is designed to accept up to 4.2v input voltage. If you want to use two batteries stick them in parallel to double the mah.

 

[Uncle Festa]

I tried stacked 350's on an ego VV board but it killed the board instantly.
Why would you want to run the batteries in series when you can run them parallel and have twice the battery life.
As far as I know the ago vv battery I took apart was just your standard 4.2v at max charge so the board has to be step up/down
for it to be able to offer a consistent 4.2 V

My thinking was that you can't get out more than you put in. So stacked batteries presumably would run the mod for longer at 4.2. To be on the safe side though I think I'll just run the batteries parallel and keep some charged. Thanks all for the advice its been really helpful.

 

[Warlordxxx]

There are 3 main types of board - Boost (step up) - Buck (step down) and Buck/Boost (step up & Down)

With an eGo VV board you have a buck/boost of sorts - Putting 8v into it will create the reaction of poof lol it will actually regulate to below the battery input which is why you can get the 3.3v output and then use PWM to get to the 4.2v output however the input is locked somewhere around the 4.2v range ..

Chegs you can happily pop 8.4v into that board if it's the LM series I have them running on 8.4V as well as constant 12v you will have no issues but you might want to consider a heatsink if you are planning on taking it to it's 3A (ish) limit, They do have thermal cutout but ya don't want your mod cutting out if it gets over warm

 

[Chegs]

I know it'll handle plenty volts,I read the bumpf on the advert before buying it,intending using it as vv for my battery box(parallel 18650's)but the batteries don't provide enough volts in parallel so I rewired it to batteries in series only then,the fecking PCB was getting uncomfortably hot. So,I removed it and went back to parallel battery configuration though that revealed a shite switch. Now I've swapped switches,it is belting out massive clouds on a dual-coiled dripper and I've no need for vv. Lol

Sent by lazer from just north of the world's largest nuclear dustbin