What's new

ego vv board in a box mod.

Using stacked batteries on an ego board will destroy it, Battery voltage is less important than the current the batteries can supply, if you connect up the egoboard correctly it will prevent the batteries dropping below the minimum voltage so the main thing affecting your vape experience will be current and coil resistance, the VV bit of the board is fairly limited but will try to maintain the selected voltage, so wire the batteries in parralell and you will get the same performance but muchh better battery life...
 
I tried stacked 350's on an ego VV board but it killed the board instantly.
Why would you want to run the batteries in series when you can run them parallel and have twice the battery life.
As far as I know the ago vv battery I took apart was just your standard 4.2v at max charge so the board has to be step up/down
for it to be able to offer a consistent 4.2 V

Using stacked batteries on an ego board will destroy it, Battery voltage is less important than the current the batteries can supply, if you connect up the egoboard correctly it will prevent the batteries dropping below the minimum voltage so the main thing affecting your vape experience will be current and coil resistance, the VV bit of the board is fairly limited but will try to maintain the selected voltage, so wire the batteries in parralell and you will get the same performance but muchh better battery life...


Yup,we got told but thanks for your input Steve.

I've been sat here experimenting with my battery box & shite dripper with dual-coils whilst also thinking about creating a high-powered vv mod using that PCB/IC or whatever it fecking is I linked to earlier,and decided I'll do it with the DNA20 from evolv just as easily.Both seem to offer a similar max current of about 5 amps,though the DNA20 spec sheet says it wont run an "under 1 ohm" coil whereas that device I linked doesn't specify if it'll be limited to "X" ohms,the DNA20 already has battery protection incorporated,that device I linked doesn't....& I'd prefer not to feck my batteries by over-discharging them,or blow off my face.
 
The DNA20 is a very good option, you'll need tobe careful handling the screen, it's a bit fragile until it's mounted but otherwise it's good kit, you can also get a USB charge module for if you want to create a sealed box rather than a tin type mod
 
Or you could always try out an OKR T/10 with a 10A limit or 50W whichever you hit first or if you can get hold of a free sample a TI PTR08100W which will hit around the same range ..

You can also fit a zener diode within the circuit to limit battery drain - If i remember correctly i used 6v in mine to stop the batteries somewhere around the 3.4v mark (without load)
 
Last edited:
Just looked these up & discovered they only operate between 4.5V & 14 V so would have to be used with series batteries,as else the instant you hit the fire button,the voltage drops below their operating range.As I already have a PCB that suffers this issue,I can simply reconfigure the wiring on my present battery box(would need add a heatsink to the IC on the board)and then be able to use it on almost any attie.
 
Back
Top Bottom