Sorry to bring up an oldish post, I brought a fogger v5 for my mrs first build it leaked everywhere, 2nd build wasnt to bad but of juice from the air holes and the 3rd build its leaked everywhere again, I just can't seem to get the wicking right (using muji cotton) any advice?
Review Fogger v5 by Yi Loong
- Thread starter Rohaq
- Start date
Nice work
I find the ongoing design-in-process of the Fogger really interesting because what they're doing basically works, with effort you could get an excellent vape from the V2.
It's funny they stick with the V number given the number of refinements they've done to each version prior to launching the next.
I think The Fogger stands as a lesson to many other manufacturers that you can take ideas without stealing them lock, stock and barrel and make it your own genuine product. High end mods too could learn something from their approach to ease of build and limiting costs to the end user.
Sure it's not perfect...but little is and at this price point it knocks at least three £100+ attys for six.
How are you building the wicks? It would be interesting to see some pics!
Not tried with muji cotton - I'm a rayon man myself - but I do seem to have figured out the secret to wicking well with the Fogger.
You need to remember that the top of the juice channels is at the same level as the airflow holes. After wicking the coils, I stick on my lower chimney section, then cut my cotton to the top of it, fluff it out, and then push it down to the base, making sure that there is essentially a wall of cotton separating the airflow holes and the juice channels. The rest of the wick it spread out over the base and airflow holes. This should help prevent it from reaching the airflow holes and causing leaks - unless you manage to REALLY flood the chimney section, like when you initially wet your wick.
Next, I take my mini screwdriver, and move the wick AWAY from the juice channels slightly with the flathead side, before sticking the cross-head into the juice channel top and gently drilling any more cotton away from them. This means that any juice that comes up the channels is more likely to go up the chimney (path of least resistance), where it can meet more wick that is likely less saturated due to the firing coil, rather than be blocked by saturated wick at the base - which may force any juice not absorbed along the deck base - which means it would eventually meet the airflow hole and leak.
Oh, and most cotton usually works better if you use a little less, as it expands when saturated. Rayon supposedly contracts slightly, though. Not sure about muji.
Does that help at all?
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