I want to build a box mod

[j20nyh]

Hi guys, I have the urge to try my hand at building a box mod and would like a little help.

I’m looking to build a dual 18650 series box with just a potentiometer to keep it simple with the drilling side of things, 3 holes and possibly a small hole with LED light if possible?

Can someone give me a quick breakdown of the recommended parts and tools I’ll need.

Also, are all variable voltage mods with a potentiometer classed as a PWM mod?

 

[mattyk2010]

@jock1092 might be able to offer some advice I know he makes mods I'm sure he will be along shortly [emoji5]

 

[kermitthefog]

Modmaker have schematics on their site and pretty sure there is one for the type you fancy building

 

[domejunky]

A series box with pot is either a PWM or OKL/OKR/Raptor board. It's a good box to start with. If you go with a PWM, then Big Al makes a board that solders directly onto the tabs at the end of a Keystone battery sled. Most PWMs will drop in voltage as your batteries run down. The SMART PWM has a regulated mode that makes it more like an OKR/OKL/Raptor.

You can buy Hammond or CNC enclosures. Hammond being cheaper, but they have the 'Hammond' lean.

510s from Fat Daddy, Varitube are good. Modmaker's and the 'Source' 510 are better I think.

Sleds from Keystone are great, there are also copies available which are good. Depending on the choice of enclosure, you may need to grind the corner. The Mosmax and 3d printed sleds usually come correctly shaped. My favourite is the Mosmax.

Switches are kind of down to personal preference. Mitec and 'P9' are meant to be the most resilient, my favourite are the low profile Fat Daddy.

Pots are pretty much all the same unless you go for a flash Vishay pot. Beware of the Vishay copies, they are meant to be a bit gritty.

Modmaker or Stealthvape will have everything you need, apart from a good temp controlled soldering iron

 

[j20nyh]

A series box with pot is either a PWM or OKL/OKR/Raptor board. It's a good box to start with. If you go with a PWM, then Big Al makes a board that solders directly onto the tabs at the end of a Keystone battery sled. Most PWMs will drop in voltage as your batteries run down. The SMART PWM has a regulated mode that makes it more like an OKR/OKL/Raptor.

You can buy Hammond or CNC enclosures. Hammond being cheaper, but they have the 'Hammond' lean.

510s from Fat Daddy, Varitube are good. Modmaker's and the 'Source' 510 are better I think.

Sleds from Keystone are great, there are also copies available which are good. Depending on the choice of enclosure, you may need to grind the corner. The Mosmax and 3d printed sleds usually come correctly shaped. My favourite is the Mosmax.

Switches are kind of down to personal preference. Mitec and 'P9' are meant to be the most resilient, my favourite are the low profile Fat Daddy.

Pots are pretty much all the same unless you go for a flash Vishay pot. Beware of the Vishay copies, they are meant to be a bit gritty.

Modmaker or Stealthvape will have everything you need, apart from a good temp controlled soldering iron

Perfect, this is a great help thank you very much.

In regards to PWM v OKL/OKR/Raptor, what are the differences and the pros and cons to each? It would be nice to maintain a constant voltage throughout but I don’t know if this overcomplicates things?

Which are the HexOhm and Noisy Cricket II classed as?

 

[domejunky]

Perfect, this is a great help thank you very much.

In regards to PWM v OKL/OKR/Raptor, what are the differences and the pros and cons to each? It would be nice to maintain a constant voltage throughout but I don’t know if this overcomplicates things?

Which are the HexOhm and Noisy Cricket II classed as?

Apart from the SMART PWM (V3), all PWMs drop the voltage as the batteries run down. In practice you just turn the pot up a bit. You should build according to your batteries as if it was unregulated as they will be delivering full power during the 'on' part of the cycle. The Big Al's have a very fast duty cycle, above 20khz, which means you can't hear the whine that some produce.

The OKR/OKL/Raptors deliver near DC power. The models are rated for different wattages. Usually they produce between 3 and 6 volt, adjustable via the pot. They produce a constant voltage until the batteries drop below a certain level, then they won't fire. You need to build so that the combination of resistance and choose voltage doesn't result in a wattage higher than the board is rated for. These are traditionally what the HexOhms were built from. Similar to a NC II

I've built and used both - a sled mount Big Al, in a Hammond 1590G, is probably the easiest build I've ever done. I do like an OKL in use though...

 

[j20nyh]

Thanks @domejunkey I’m learning a lot this evening [emoji1360]

So OKR/OKL/Raptor sounds more like the Noisy Cricket II which is what I’m looking to build. I pretty much only ever use it in series regulated mode around 5v with a 0.26ohm build. If my maths are correct I’m drawing about 12.7amps on fully charged dual 18650s at 8.4v, I cant remember exactly what wattage this is outputting but it feels approx 100w (ish). I would only need something rated up to 150w max, are there lots of different options with these type of boards and are they a lot more complicated to build?

Dumb question probably but what do OKR and OKL stand for, or are these just brand names?

 

[jock1092]

Perfect, this is a great help thank you very much.

In regards to PWM v OKL/OKR/Raptor, what are the differences and the pros and cons to each? It would be nice to maintain a constant voltage throughout but I don’t know if this overcomplicates things?

Which are the HexOhm and Noisy Cricket II classed as?

They are VV, or like the okl/raptor boards

Those are great dc/dc boards with a pot, but I would suggest the okl 100w over the raptor for a first build - it's a lot easier and allows for a mod meter to give both coil resistance and a wattage equivalent plus battery level (basically like a regulated box)

In my experience it gives a good punch

For pwm it's pulsing 8.4v to give a level output but it always hits harder than any order mod set at the same power, here's why
Pwm set to 4v, is (depending on a few things) essentially giving 8.4v about 45% of the draw - so while you averaging 4v it feels stronger
A regulated mod or VV device on the other hand is giving you just what your ask for, no more (sometimes less in cheap regulated mods)

For pwm I'd suggest a big als iPwm sled mount board

Other options would be the big als ANT (side mount) or Pot-belly pwm (less features - but easier to fit)

I'd also suggest a modmaker wide boy 100 if your not experienced in soldering as it gives more room and is generally easier to build in, plus that size helps with giving more room for error when drilling and it can always be swapped for a gboy/gboy+ later

I'd also put a mention in for Mosmax sleds from stealth vape as they are much neater than the Keystone sleds and are fitted to mods better (it was designed for mods)

I may need to proofread and edit this

 

[j20nyh]

Thanks @domejunkey I’m learning a lot this evening [emoji1360]

So OKR/OKL/Raptor sounds more like the Noisy Cricket II which is what I’m looking to build. I pretty much only ever use it in series regulated mode around 5v with a 0.26ohm build. If my maths are correct I’m drawing about 12.7amps on fully charged dual 18650s at 8.4v, I cant remember exactly what wattage this is outputting but it feels approx 100w (ish). I would only need something rated up to 150w max, are there lots of different options with these type of boards and are they a lot more complicated to build?

Dumb question probably but what do OKR and OKL stand for, or are these just brand names?

This included efficiency at 90% and I should have calculated that with voltage at its lowest [6.4v] but I’m still within my 30A limit regardless.

 

[j20nyh]

They are VV, or like the okl/raptor boards

Those are great dc/dc boards with a pot, but I would suggest the okl 100w over the raptor for a first build - it's a lot easier and allows for a mod meter to give both coil resistance and a wattage equivalent plus battery level (basically like a regulated box)

In my experience it gives a good punch

For pwm it's pulsing 8.4v to give a level output but it always hits harder than any order mod set at the same power, here's why
Pwm set to 4v, is (depending on a few things) essentially giving 8.4v about 45% of the draw - so while you averaging 4v it feels stronger
A regulated mod or VV device on the other hand is giving you just what your ask for, no more (sometimes less in cheap regulated mods)

For pwm I'd suggest a big als iPwm sled mount board

Other options would be the big als ANT (side mount) or Pot-belly pwm (less features - but easier to fit)

I'd also suggest a modmaker wide boy 100 if your not experienced in soldering as it gives more room and is generally easier to build in, plus that size helps with giving more room for error when drilling and it can always be swapped for a gboy/gboy+ later

I'd also put a mention in for Mosmax sleds from stealth vape as they are much neater than the Keystone sleds and are fitted to mods better (it was designed for mods)

I may need to proofread and edit this

I’m not too worried about having a mod meter to be honest and omitting one will give me a cleaner finish, less drilling of the box and more room inside.

So to clarify the HexOhm and NCII are not PWM mods? I’m happy to give PWM a miss if that’s the case. If the OKL or Raptor boards are anything like the NCII then I’ll be more than satisfied. Imo these mods hit much harder than any regulated vw mod I used, so much so that I don’t ever see me using a regulated vw again.