Is there any disadvantages from vaping at high voltage?

[Crispycritters]

The thing you must pay strict attention to is the Amp limit of your batteries rather than the volts or the wattage, as long as you don't exceed the Amp limit you shouldn't run into problems.

If you are using a mechanical mod or a single battery voltage output only mod that has no voltage boost circuitry, generally you have to build to low resistances because they can't provide enough voltage for higher resistance dual coil builds, they may be good for low power RDL or MTL but the voltage output restriction can severely limit their versatility. With single battery mods with voltage boost circuitry or dual battery mods that run at 8.4V series configuration these restrictions aren't an issue and you have a much wider range of resistances the mod can run because of the higher Voltage output capability.

I often run 5 wrap dual 2x26/38 3mm i.d. Ni80 fused claptons coils at 0.17 ohms on mech mods, but dual 10 wrap single core 26/38 claptons at 0.68 ohms will give exactly the same vape on a regulated mod - a dual core 5 wrap and a single core 10 wrap will have almost identical coil to cotton contact area and will provide the same vape as long as your mod can provide the voltage for higher resistance builds.

You don't have to run low ohm coils to get a high powered vape - the only thing that is essential is not exceeding your batteries Amp rating.

 

[Mixsforplan]

The thing you must pay strict attention to is the Amp limit of your batteries rather than the volts or the wattage, as long as you don't exceed the Amp limit you shouldn't run into problems.

If you are using a mechanical mod or a single battery voltage output only mod that has no voltage boost circuitry, generally you have to build to low resistances because they can't provide enough voltage for higher resistance dual coil builds, they may be good for low power RDL or MTL but the voltage output restriction can severely limit their versatility. With single battery mods with voltage boost circuitry or dual battery mods that run at 8.4V series configuration these restrictions aren't an issue and you have a much wider range of resistances the mod can run because of the higher Voltage output capability.

I often run 5 wrap dual 2x26/38 3mm i.d. Ni80 fused claptons coils at 0.17 ohms on mech mods, but dual 10 wrap single core 26/38 claptons at 0.68 ohms will give exactly the same vape on a regulated mod - a dual core 5 wrap and a single core 10 wrap will have almost identical coil to cotton contact area and will provide the same vape as long as your mod can provide the voltage for higher resistance builds.

You don't have to run low ohm coils to get a high powered vape - the only thing that is essential is not exceeding your batteries Amp rating.

Thanks for your clear clarification Crispy. That's a very good explanation. I think, I have finally found all the answer for the questions that stick in my mind for a week .

 

[crustyfolker]

The thing you must pay strict attention to is the Amp limit of your batteries rather than the volts or the wattage, as long as you don't exceed the Amp limit you shouldn't run into problems.

If you are using a mechanical mod or a single battery voltage output only mod that has no voltage boost circuitry, generally you have to build to low resistances because they can't provide enough voltage for higher resistance dual coil builds, they may be good for low power RDL or MTL but the voltage output restriction can severely limit their versatility. With single battery mods with voltage boost circuitry or dual battery mods that run at 8.4V series configuration these restrictions aren't an issue and you have a much wider range of resistances the mod can run because of the higher Voltage output capability.

I often run 5 wrap dual 2x26/38 3mm i.d. Ni80 fused claptons coils at 0.17 ohms on mech mods, but dual 10 wrap single core 26/38 claptons at 0.68 ohms will give exactly the same vape on a regulated mod - a dual core 5 wrap and a single core 10 wrap will have almost identical coil to cotton contact area and will provide the same vape as long as your mod can provide the voltage for higher resistance builds.

You don't have to run low ohm coils to get a high powered vape - the only thing that is essential is not exceeding your batteries Amp rating.

Can i just but in here, sorry. You are mixing up high and low resistance, the lower the coil ohm's the more power it needs. You put it the opposite way, see above in yellow.
Amp limits apply more to mech use, lower amps can still be used to power MTL set ups, these lower amp batteries have a longer runtime.
They can also be used in a mech using a MTL atty. With most regulated mods the chipset has Buck and boost, this means decreasing the voltage on a fresh battery or increasing the voltage when a batteries power would struggle to power the atty.
If you try to use low amps with higher wattage in a regulated mod the batteries won't last long before needing a recharge.
The OP is using a regulated mod now so should have no worries about any dangers associated with mechs.
Series mods, one thing the OP may get confused with is if using a mech mod with series batteries the resistance must not be lower than 0.4-0.5 ohms or you will pull to many amps.

 

[Crispycritters]

Can i just but in here, sorry. You are mixing up high and low resistance, the lower the coil ohm's the more power it needs. You put it the opposite way, see above in yellow.
Amp limits apply more to mech use, lower amps can still be used to power MTL set ups, these lower amp batteries have a longer runtime.
They can also be used in a mech using a MTL atty. With most regulated mods the chipset has Buck and boost, this means decreasing the voltage on a fresh battery or increasing the voltage when a batteries power would struggle to power the atty.
If you try to use low amps with higher wattage in a regulated mod the batteries won't last long before needing a recharge.
The OP is using a regulated mod now so should have no worries about any dangers associated with mechs.
Series mods, one thing the OP may get confused with is if using a mech mod with series batteries the resistance must not be lower than 0.4-0.5 ohms or you will pull to many amps.

Not necessarily - two 10 wrap 26 gauge claptons at 0.68 ohms will need pretty much the same wattage to heat up effectively as a pair of 5 wrap dual 26 gauge claptons at 0.16 ohms because they have essentially the same mass - the lower the resistance, the more power it needs theory doesn't apply in this example as high ohm building doesn't necessarily mean small coils.

A regulated mod it would have to send approximately 3.6 volts at 22 - 23 Amps to provide 80 Watts to a 0.16 ohm build, for a high mass dual coil 0.64 ohm build it would have to provide 11 to 11.5 Amps at around 7.2 volts to give the same 80 watt vape and ramp up time - the amount of current a board pulls from a battery to power these two builds at 80 watts is identical as they have similar mass - the buck/boost circuitry adjusts the voltage up or down from the chip, but the current drain on the batteries will be essentially the same for both builds. The display on most regulated mod shows the voltage and amps sent from the board to the 510, NOT the current pulled from the batteries to provide the power to the 510.

In the original posters case he was using the Jai Haze multi-wrap style build for increased cotton coverage., rather than lower ohm coils with thicker wires and less wraps, although these (Jai build?) coils are high resistance they are also large because of the extra wraps and need higher wattage than similar resistance low mass builds used for RDL and MTL vapes.

Amp limits for batteries are just as important for regulated mods as for mechs as all of the boards protections are built in to protect the board NOT the batteries - if you crank up the wattage on any regulated mod the board will try to pull whatever current it needs to provide that vape. It has no idea what batteries you are using and it is always down to the end user to make that decision, get it wrong and the board can do nothing to protect you..

 

[crustyfolker]

Not necessarily - two 10 wrap 26 gauge claptons at 0.68 ohms will need pretty much the same wattage to heat up effectively as a pair of 5 wrap dual 26 gauge claptons at 0.16 ohms because they have essentially the same mass - the lower the resistance, the more power it needs theory doesn't apply in this example as high ohm building doesn't necessarily mean small coils.

A regulated mod it would have to send approximately 3.6 volts at 22 - 23 Amps to provide 80 Watts to a 0.16 ohm build, for a high mass dual coil 0.64 ohm build it would have to provide 11 to 11.5 Amps at around 7.2 volts to give the same 80 watt vape and ramp up time - the amount of current a board pulls from a battery to power these two builds at 80 watts is identical as they have similar mass - the buck/boost circuitry adjusts the voltage up or down from the chip, but the current drain on the batteries will be essentially the same for both builds. The display on most regulated mod shows the voltage and amps sent from the board to the 510, NOT the current pulled from the batteries to provide the power to the 510.

In the original posters case he was using the Jai Haze multi-wrap style build for increased cotton coverage., rather than lower ohm coils with thicker wires and less wraps, although these (Jai build?) coils are high resistance they are also large because of the extra wraps and need higher wattage than similar resistance low mass builds used for RDL and MTL vapes.

Amp limits for batteries are just as important for regulated mods as for mechs as all of the boards protections are built in to protect the board NOT the batteries - if you crank up the wattage on any regulated mod the board will try to pull whatever current it needs to provide that vape. It has no idea what batteries you are using and it is always down to the end user to make that decision, get it wrong and the board can do nothing to protect you..

Lets just say i have been a vaper for 6n half years, Buck and boost doesn't work the way you put it, it throttles back the power to provide the wattage, as the battery is used the chip will start to boost the power In most cases, there have been shit boards that don't buck n boost. The non buck and boost chipsets are inferior. I have had a DNA200 for over 5 years and its still working. the one mod that did not have buck n boost was the Ijoy capo squonker, the chip broke down after about 2 batteries worth of use. Without the buck and boost you have more chance of a failed board or mod. The Board always has safety built in, even a Mosfet has safety unlike a full mech mod, although a board might not have knowledge of what batteries are used but it does know the Voltage range hence why most won't fire once the battery is down to 3.2v. Again most mods won't fire up how they should once that the voltage drops, A DNA device gives you the customisation to allow batteries to work gown to 2.7v safely.

 

[Crispycritters]

Lets just say i have been a vaper for 6n half years, Buck and boost doesn't work the way you put it, it throttles back the power to provide the wattage, as the battery is used the chip will start to boost the power In most cases, there have been shit boards that don't buck n boost. The non buck and boost chipsets are inferior. I have had a DNA200 for over 5 years and its still working. the one mod that did not have buck n boost was the Ijoy capo squonker, the chip broke down after about 2 batteries worth of use. Without the buck and boost you have more chance of a failed board or mod. The Board always has safety built in, even a Mosfet has safety unlike a full mech mod, although a board might not have knowledge of what batteries are used but it does know the Voltage range hence why most won't fire once the battery is down to 3.2v. Again most mods won't fire up how they should once that the voltage drops, A DNA device gives you the customisation to allow batteries to work gown to 2.7v safely.

Buck throttles back the voltage, boost increases the voltage - its not really a mystery. What confuses many people is the display on most boards shows the Amps and Voltage sent to the coils from the board NOT what it is pulling from the battery/batteries

The safeties in every mod exist to protect the mod, NOT the batteries - and regardless of how sophisticated the board is - it knows the remaining voltage in the batteries and that is the limit of its knowledge, - it's clueless about the Amp rating or the condition of the batteries. That is entirely the responsibility of the end user.

A fully regulated mod with buck boost will provide the same vape as long as the batteries are above the cut off voltage, but as the voltage of the batteries runs down the board must pull increasing amounts of current from the batteries to provide the same power to the coils (I'm not talking about boost circuitry here - that is a separate issue) - the lower your batteries go, the more current the board tries to pull from them to provide the same power to the coils. This is a major reason why batteries in a regulated mod will sometimes get very warm when the voltage gets low - they are simply being made to work harder because the board has to pull increasingly higher Amp levels as they run down than it does when they are fully charged. So if you use a DNA board to lower the cut off voltage to 2.7V - make absolutely sure you know what Amps are being pulled from them at this low level as it may be higher than you thought. And that sophisticated DNA board can do nothing to protect you - it can allow you to vape down to 2.7 Volts safely, but only if you use the correct Amp rated batteries.

 

[crustyfolker]

Buck throttles back the voltage, boost increases the voltage - its not really a mystery. What confuses many people is the display on most boards shows the Amps and Voltage sent to the coils from the board NOT what it is pulling from the battery/batteries

The safeties in every mod exist to protect the mod, NOT the batteries - and regardless of how sophisticated the board is - it knows the remaining voltage in the batteries and that is the limit of its knowledge, - it's clueless about the Amp rating or the condition of the batteries. That is entirely the responsibility of the end user.

A fully regulated mod with buck boost will provide the same vape as long as the batteries are above the cut off voltage, but as the voltage of the batteries runs down the board must pull increasing amounts of current from the batteries to provide the same power to the coils (I'm not talking about boost circuitry here - that is a separate issue) - the lower your batteries go, the more current the board tries to pull from them to provide the same power to the coils. This is a major reason why batteries in a regulated mod will sometimes get very warm when the voltage gets low - they are simply being made to work harder because the board has to pull increasingly higher Amp levels as they run down than it does when they are fully charged. So if you use a DNA board to lower the cut off voltage to 2.7V - make absolutely sure you know what Amps are being pulled from them at this low level as it may be higher than you thought. And that sophisticated DNA board can do nothing to protect you - it can allow you to vape down to 2.7 Volts safely, but only if you use the correct Amp rated batteries.

I own over 30 DNA devices, never had a problem using 25r's or VCT5A's both of which have different amp ratings. Battery chemistry is different i also use a lot of 30Q batteries in my DNA's. I have never had any issue with batteries getting hot. I guess there are lots of other DNA users who will agree with me on this, the DNA chip costs money compared to other inferior chipsets, we are paying for a chipset that is far more capable than you probably realise, hence the cost of them.
When i first started vaping i purchased some batteries that where meant to be 20amps, they where actually 10 amps. I went out using an SXK brass nebula with one of the batteries in. It must have provided 30 mins worth of use at 40w before it was flat.
Yihi chipsets, these will not even fire up if the battery is below 3.4v in most cases the chipsets have safety features that prevent accidents. If one of the safety features kicks in a regulated mod in most cases just won't fire up, So to say you need to make sure your amp rating is enough is false the chipsets know, if the remaining battery power will fire even though they cant measure a batteries Ampage.
The Board won't try to pull more than it can, when it gets to that state the chip boosts the ampage. I can use a DNA device at 80w and it will still power 80w untill the battery is down to 2.7 cutoff. Most vapers on the forum know what batteries they need, so it's a bit of a mute point.

 

[Crispycritters]

I own over 30 DNA devices, never had a problem using 25r's or VCT5A's both of which have different amp ratings. Battery chemistry is different i also use a lot of 30Q batteries in my DNA's. I have never had any issue with batteries getting hot. I guess there are lots of other DNA users who will agree with me on this, the DNA chip costs money compared to other inferior chipsets, we are paying for a chipset that is far more capable than you probably realise, hence the cost of them.
When i first started vaping i purchased some batteries that where meant to be 20amps, they where actually 10 amps. I went out using an SXK brass nebula with one of the batteries in. It must have provided 30 mins worth of use at 40w before it was flat.
Yihi chipsets, these will not even fire up if the battery is below 3.4v in most cases the chipsets have safety features that prevent accidents. If one of the safety features kicks in a regulated mod in most cases just won't fire up, So to say you need to make sure your amp rating is enough is false the chipsets know, if the remaining battery power will fire even though they cant measure a batteries Ampage.
The Board won't try to pull more than it can, when it gets to that state the chip boosts the ampage. I can use a DNA device at 80w and it will still power 80w untill the battery is down to 2.7 cutoff. Most vapers on the forum know what batteries they need, so it's a bit of a mute point.

The chipsets will prevent firing in case of a short or a too low or high ohm build, overheating at the board (not the batteries) and reverse polarity (also to protect the board circuitry) but no board can protect from basic things like low Amp rated batteries, torn wraps or missing insulators on battery positive posts - all protections are between the board and 510 NOT between the batteries and board.

Whatever chipset you use it can't change the physical limits of the batteries, 25Rs are decent 20 Amp batteries, VTC5As are good tried and trusted 25 Amp batteries and the 30Qs are also good 20 Amp batteries (although they can be pushed a little harder if you are willing to sacrifice recharge cycles). DNA boards are probably the best available, but it is a testament to the quality of decent batteries and the safety margins rather than the actual chipset that there aren't more accidents.

The chipsets DO NOT KNOW the Amperage of the batteries - what happens with low Amp rated batteries is they suffer from battery sag at high power levels and the voltage they provide drops instantly under heavy load - if it goes under the low voltage cut off you will get a low battery alert and the mod will shut down, even if the battery when at rest is above this level.

If you have been vaping 25Rs/30Qs/VTC5As at 80 watts down to 2.7 watts you have been pushing all of them beyond their rated limits and it is a testimony of the high quality of the batteries you have been using rather than the capabilities of DNA electronics that have kept you out of trouble. I'm not slagging off Evolv by any means - but their safety features do not improve the rated Amp output of the batteries.

Try figuring out how many Amps you need at 2.7 volts to give an 80 Watt vape on a single battery. Hint: it will be more than 25 - and no chipset, regardless of how sophisticated can change physical laws. In short - you've been getting away with it.

We've managed to totally hijack this thread and I'm out on this one, but good luck with what you're currently doing.

 

[Mixsforplan]

There's such a plenty of informations received from you guys. I appreciate you guys a lot.

Anyway, after reading, there's just another little question that trick my curiosity.

What if I use the single battery regulated box mod instead? Will it can fire up to those 6 voltage like the series dual battery one?

 

[oORobOo]

There's such a plenty of informations received from you guys. I appreciate you guys a lot.

Anyway, after reading, there's just another little question that trick my curiosity.

What if I use the single battery regulated box mod instead? Will it can fire up to those 6 voltage like the series dual battery one?

The mod would have to have a boost converter set to that limit or above, so yes but it depends on the mod. A lot of mods don't have them since it's an extra 40p or so Vs just a Buck chip, not a lot of money but when you multiply it across thousands of mods produced for what is a very small market a lot of manufacturers don't bother. So check the mods max output voltage.