Mushroom mod refurbishment advice

[beastobadness]

So I have a mushroom mod which has a busted 510 connection issue...not sure how it happened but the tiny brass collet which holds the pin inside the connection and the tiny nut at the other end of the same pin have both cracked. Maybe heat or just wear and tear have caused it, I can not be sure but it makes it un-fixable. The effect of this is the pin keeps falling out.

So what I need is suggestions for a couple of components for the rebuild.

I have already stripped the mod back (which will make its copper cleaning a whole lot easier) but need recommendations for a replacement 510 connection.

What I already know is the original was a 22mm Fat Daddy 510 v4 BF Short/Low Profile connection...however these seem to be a bit difficult to find now. I know that ModMaker used to stock those but no longer does...they now use there own standard size BF 510 with an extension washer but I don't know whether that will be suitable. Stealthvape also have options but the ones they stock tend to be Varitube BF 510's.

Obviously the reason the makers of the mushroom mod used a low profile BF 510 was so a bigger squonk bottle could be used...so recommendations for a suitable squonk bottle would be great also even if it is a reduced size

To me this is my first mech repair, thank god there is no soldering needed! If anyone has already done a 510 connection replacement for a mushroom it would be great if you could chime in

 

[Bazz_74]

Personally i'd go with Modmaker every time for 510's and bottles, i managed to get them in to a Frankie clone and there is not much space in them so i can't imagine the Mushroom being any smaller. I did have to insulate the copper strip though as it does come into contact with the metal cap of the squonk bottle.

 

[beastobadness]

Personally i'd go with Modmaker every time for 510's and bottles, i managed to get them in to a Frankie clone and there is not much space in them so i can't imagine the Mushroom being any smaller. I did have to insulate the copper strip though as it does come into contact with the metal cap of the squonk bottle.

The only problem that I would probably have with the MM BF 510 would be the alteration to the hole it sits in...the mushroom mod has a 10mm hole where the MM BF 510 threading is 12mm. The Varitube are 10mm threading so would fit perfectly.

However I would prefer the MM one as they are very short

Added...the positive copper contact would need drilling also there is not enough width on the copper for another 2mm

 

[andy3434]

So I have a mushroom mod which has a busted 510 connection issue...not sure how it happened but the tiny brass collet which holds the pin inside the connection and the tiny nut at the other end of the same pin have both cracked. Maybe heat or just wear and tear have caused it, I can not be sure but it makes it un-fixable. The effect of this is the pin keeps falling out.

So what I need is suggestions for a couple of components for the rebuild.

I have already stripped the mod back (which will make its copper cleaning a whole lot easier) but need recommendations for a replacement 510 connection.

What I already know is the original was a 22mm Fat Daddy 510 v4 BF Short/Low Profile connection...however these seem to be a bit difficult to find now. I know that ModMaker used to stock those but no longer does...they now use there own standard size BF 510 with an extension washer but I don't know whether that will be suitable. Stealthvape also have options but the ones they stock tend to be Varitube BF 510's.

Obviously the reason the makers of the mushroom mod used a low profile BF 510 was so a bigger squonk bottle could be used...so recommendations for a suitable squonk bottle would be great also even if it is a reduced size

To me this is my first mech repair, thank god there is no soldering needed! If anyone has already done a 510 connection replacement for a mushroom it would be great if you could chime in

take a look at the mushroom mod fb page, there is a few walk throughs on it on fitting MM510's

 

[beastobadness]

take a look at the mushroom mod fb page, there is a few walk throughs on it on fitting MM510's

There is definitely some great jobs...you know when you feel you have bitten off more than you can chew lmfao

 

[Tubbyengineer]

There is definitely some great jobs...you know when you feel you have bitten off more than you can chew lmfao

A step drill will be your friend for this job, just go gently with it...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-spiral-flute-step-drill-bit-4-20mm/8528d

 

[beastobadness]

A step drill will be your friend for this job, just go gently with it...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-spiral-flute-step-drill-bit-4-20mm/8528d

Aye I watched Todds YT vid on 510 connection replacement...he used one of them to put a MM510 in his runt. Might actually have one in the toolbox somewhere.

Get the feeling I am going to have to make new connections for it and maybe remove some of the internal structure of the abs to let them fit.

Was going to get a small sheet of copper but I am tending to think SS might be better to save the constant cleaning of the contacts...would have liked to have silver but it seems a lot of money to gain the small amount of increased performance...was reading Mooch's post about the metal type not having a significant bearing on voltage drop.

 

[Bazz_74]

May save on cleaning, but copper is cheap and easy to work with.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Aye I watched Todds YT vid on 510 connection replacement...he used one of them to put a MM510 in his runt. Might actually have one in the toolbox somewhere.

Get the feeling I am going to have to make new connections for it and maybe remove some of the internal structure of the abs to let them fit.

Was going to get a small sheet of copper but I am tending to think SS might be better to save the constant cleaning of the contacts...would have liked to have silver but it seems a lot of money to gain the small amount of increased performance...was reading Mooch's post about the metal type not having a significant bearing on voltage drop.

I did the same thing as mooch about three years ago - it's on here somewhere - The difference works out to mere milliwatts of difference in power...

 

[andy3434]

I would go with copper to, much easier to work with than SS