Power profiling. (A kick up the backside.)

[atomised]

Whoa there cowboys! We don't need any sexy ramping - just bang-bang control of the coil's voltage. (The system output is coil temperature and the thermal inertia of the coil will do the ramping all on it's own.)

You change the coil's voltage by switching the trim resistor of the dc/dc converter. The trick is doing it without upsetting / tripping the controller.


Looking at the Murata spec sheets, at worst you would have to switch on at high voltage, wait for x mS, switch off, change the trim resistor and switch on again. At best you would just change the resistor after x mS (but I suspect that would be problematic).

Having designed dc/dc converter PCBs (magnetics and all) for other applications I know what I'm proposing isn't rocket science; if I weren't about to move house I'd be getting stuck in right now.

Oh, also, SV's Murata OKR-T/10-W12 is theoretically capable of 10A output. Just quickly derating and without doing any sums it should be good for 30W without too much hassle.

Must go and put things in cardboard boxes now.

 

[sparkyjuice]

More of a fixed boost voltage to overcome coil thermal inertia followed by controlled voltage
Ideally you'd want thermal feedback
But tricky fitting a thermocouple to a coil
What you're looking at is a response curve like that of a critically damped system overshoot followed by set level

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[9668harry]

And proof there's defiantly more then one way to skin a cat. The thermal inertia of the coil I would agree is enough ramp to get the desired results. The problem lies with automating the initial output voltage burst down to the desired user input voltage. As the required effect of this as discussed is coil temperature this also throws more variables into the mix especially when we consider thermal inertia. If we consider a 1 volt ramp down over X amount of ms, who's to say that that's enough to reduce coil lag without burning the shit out of the juice. As the overall voltage/coil temp is a function of the users personal preference/build etc, this could easily happen making the circuit a complete waste of time. As suggested a thermocouple would help with the feedback of the process but is completely impractical.

Too many variables to contain, I feel this idea is a hiding to nothing. Keeping it simple, just holding the fire button for a sec or 2 before use seems by far the easier option.


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[Chegs]

Too many variables to contain, I feel this idea is a hiding to nothing. Keeping it simple, just holding the fire button for a sec or 2 before use seems by far the easier option.

Guess I'll just have to use this method & avoid vaping juices that burn easily.Which is actually not that many as I like my dual coiled 0.34 ohm 1mm x 0.1mm ribbon,or my 0.5mm 0.34 ohm dual coils(approx 50 watts ish)Since I changed to lipo cells in parallel,there's little voltage drop (0.1V) and 4000 MaH gives me approx 30 hours chain-vaping before taste indicates it's time to change to the other box mod with same internals.

 

[9668harry]

Guess I'll just have to use this method & avoid vaping juices that burn easily.Which is actually not that many as I like my dual coiled 0.34 ohm 1mm x 0.1mm ribbon,or my 0.5mm 0.34 ohm dual coils(approx 50 watts ish)Since I changed to lipo cells in parallel,there's little voltage drop (0.1V) and 4000 MaH gives me approx 30 hours chain-vaping before taste indicates it's time to change to the other box mod with same internals.

30hrs,lol. I was contemplating making a box mod, Ive got some nice ideas using a micro fan to cool the internals down a little when under heavy load. 30hrs vape time just convinced me. I'm forever charging 650's at the min. I go through 2 a day. I just don't want to make the same box mod as everyone else seems to make.


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[sparkyjuice]

Guess I'll just have to use this method & avoid vaping juices that burn easily.Which is actually not that many as I like my dual coiled 0.34 ohm 1mm x 0.1mm ribbon,or my 0.5mm 0.34 ohm dual coils(approx 50 watts ish)Since I changed to lipo cells in parallel,there's little voltage drop (0.1V) and 4000 MaH gives me approx 30 hours chain-vaping before taste indicates it's time to change to the other box mod with same internals.

Got my kraken coiled in 1mm x 0.1mm parallel wrap single wick lovely vape now there is some thermal inertia ss rope/mesh !
Actually all the above is doable using hardware like sx350 or dna trick is coding it in to provide a user selection menu



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[Chegs]

30hrs,lol. I was contemplating making a box mod, Ive got some nice ideas using a micro fan to cool the internals down a little when under heavy load. 30hrs vape time just convinced me. I'm forever charging 650's at the min. I go through 2 a day. I just don't want to make the same box mod as everyone else seems to make.


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I was also going through 18650's at a rate,as the mech mods I had were shit(big voltage drops)meant max of 6 hours per charge.I got a copper nemisis clone and was then getting upto 12 hours before the taste changed so much.Then I noticed I could use lower nicotine juices the lower I dropped my attys resistances so spent several hours experimenting with various coils before settling on exactly 0.34 which I seemed to get seriously OCD about(the vapour just didn't taste right at anything other than exactly 0.34)even to the point I was stressing so easily about sod all,checked my coils & they were 0.41 ohms lol.I saw a box mod built by a member with a pile of these 1000 mah lipo cells inside,asked where to buy them & they're only £1.63 each from a UK warehouse,saw mosfets being used to allow sensible switches used(instead of a sodding great big car parts dept 25 amp rated switch,I could use the little push-button switches from old electrical items or the present 3 amp switches I found on ebay cheap)The total cost of these box mods is 4 x £1.63 + £2 for the mosfet + £2 for the switch + £4 for the hammond enclosure + 64p for the 510 connectors + £1.50 ish for 5 x 1 amp PCB USB charging boards & an extra £2 for the 14 AWG silicon coated cables (from an R/C models supplier) Resulting in a box mod capable of chucking out about 80 amps(that's what the mosfet is rated at)and no restrictions on minimum resistance for coils.I've also been thinking of what I need do if ever I struggle with the 14 AWG cables reaching their limit,& came up with some copper brake pipe with silicon tubing slid over it.This method would likely be best suited for a wooden box mod as I'm unlikely to ever develop a taste for lower than my present 0.34 ohm builds.My biggest issue is the mosfets are so fucking tiny that there's no simple method of mounting them on a heatsink,and unless I'm really careful with the soldering the 14 AWG just detaches itself(I also don't believe that their legs will carry 80 amps)Raguri said he knows of a supplier for 100 amp mosfets so I might try those next.

Since I built & tested the 1st box mod,I have built another exactly the same as they are working better than any of my proper mech mods.The copper nemisis is 0.3 volts drop,my boxes are 0.1 volts,the nemesis lasts about 6-9 hours,my boxes last 30+ hours so I use the boxes always & the nemesis/Dreadnaut etc just sit around looking pretty.

 

[9668harry]

I was also going through 18650's at a rate,as the mech mods I had were shit(big voltage drops)meant max of 6 hours per charge.I got a copper nemisis clone and was then getting upto 12 hours before the taste changed so much.Then I noticed I could use lower nicotine juices the lower I dropped my attys resistances so spent several hours experimenting with various coils before settling on exactly 0.34 which I seemed to get seriously OCD about(the vapour just didn't taste right at anything other than exactly 0.34)even to the point I was stressing so easily about sod all,checked my coils & they were 0.41 ohms lol.I saw a box mod built by a member with a pile of these 1000 mah lipo cells inside,asked where to buy them & they're only £1.63 each from a UK warehouse,saw mosfets being used to allow sensible switches used(instead of a sodding great big car parts dept 25 amp rated switch,I could use the little push-button switches from old electrical items or the present 3 amp switches I found on ebay cheap)The total cost of these box mods is 4 x £1.63 + £2 for the mosfet + £2 for the switch + £4 for the hammond enclosure + 64p for the 510 connectors + £1.50 ish for 5 x 1 amp PCB USB charging boards & an extra £2 for the 14 AWG silicon coated cables (from an R/C models supplier) Resulting in a box mod capable of chucking out about 80 amps(that's what the mosfet is rated at)and no restrictions on minimum resistance for coils.I've also been thinking of what I need do if ever I struggle with the 14 AWG cables reaching their limit,& came up with some copper brake pipe with silicon tubing slid over it.This method would likely be best suited for a wooden box mod as I'm unlikely to ever develop a taste for lower than my present 0.34 ohm builds.My biggest issue is the mosfets are so fucking tiny that there's no simple method of mounting them on a heatsink,and unless I'm really careful with the soldering the 14 AWG just detaches itself(I also don't believe that their legs will carry 80 amps)Raguri said he knows of a supplier for 100 amp mosfets so I might try those next.

Since I built & tested the 1st box mod,I have built another exactly the same as they are working better than any of my proper mech mods.The copper nemisis is 0.3 volts drop,my boxes are 0.1 volts,the nemesis lasts about 6-9 hours,my boxes last 30+ hours so I use the boxes always & the nemesis/Dreadnaut etc just sit around looking pretty.

Sweet set up. Sounds like you've put a lot of thought and effort into your box. That's what I'm looking to do myself. Everybody seems to go straight for the mamu dna blueprint, Same switches etc. I'm after something with a bit more thought in it if you know what I mean. I might tap you up for a few suppliers (lipo's etc) when I come round to do mine, if you don't mind? Save me a lot of time price shopping for parts.when I finally get the time to do it.



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