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Vapemonkey1980

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Mar 13, 2013
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Hello folks :)

Looking to buy some wick/coil material but have come to realise I have no idea what is what!

For rewicking/coiling an IGO-L what sort of kit should I be looking for?

Kanthal or Nichrome and what thickness?

What thickness silica and could i use mesh if i wanted to go in at the deep end?

I want to aim for about 2.0 ohm or there abouts and if somewhere does silica that's less inclined to fall apart, that would be helpful too! :D

Looking at stealthvape at the moment, as they seem to have a pretty broad range, and it's in stock! But i am open to suggestion.

Cheers

Robin
 
4 coils of .15 nichrome gives me 1.8 ohms 5 coils 2.2 ohms. I use 3.0mm wick on the IGO-L on a U wick (so total thickness at the coil is 2 x 3mm) and they are easy to rewick/coil - the only tips I can offer is to attach the coil to the outer post first - it seems a lot easier this way. If you don't want a U at the end or its too long, you can always cut it in the middle.

I'd suggest heading over to www.stealthvape.co.uk and getting one of his £3 samplers of nichrome wire http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/rebuildable-supplies/nichrome-sample-pack all 3 wires are usable on the IGO and there's enough for a few faff ups and some playing.

Tools? A tiny cross-head screwdriver is a must. A lighter to pre heat the wire (makes it less springy) is useful a pair of tweezers or a small flat blade screwdriver (for moving individual coils tiny amounts) is useful. A magnifying glass can help (if light's not good) a pair of scissors to cut wick and wire and probably the most important, something to stand the IGO base on - I got a discarded alloy spacer from work.
 
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could try lt ecigs too...their wick is back in stock now and they also have the kanthal ribbon...mine came yesterday so hoping to get time to do a coil later on :)...grab a bottle of mint mix while your there too ;)
 
could try lt ecigs too...their wick is back in stock now and they also have the kanthal ribbon...mine came yesterday so hoping to get time to do a coil later on :)...grab a bottle of mint mix while your there too ;)

I found ribbon a bit unsatisfactory on the IGO-L - its a lot broader than wire and difficult to get many coils in (probably my myopic old git incompetence). My Kanthal flat wire is a bit broad though (.6 x .1) so maybe a smaller wire would be better - will be interested in how you get on with this the jester . On the AGA - T though, where there's more room and a nice upright SS wick, the result was excellent.
 
i got two different sizes so will give em both a go...being a printer i have eyes like a shithouse rat so will try keep the coils neat :)...cant do mesh...too much faff...i presume you keep the 'flat' of the ribbon as neat as poss?
 
Keep the flat side errrr. flat and in contact with the wick. That bit's easyish - but being Kathal its very springy and if I ever have a go on an IGO with it again I might blast the stuf with a gas flame before I start coiling to try and get rid of some of that. I found the difficult thing on the IGO was keeping the coils apart - the flat wire seems to have its own memory. On the AGA it was easy - probably because there's more space too - getting the flat wire to bed down below the bolts on the IGO was a bit faffy too - though I have to stress - I am no expert and certainly not with Kanthal flat wire. Good luck with the build(s) :)
 
zivipf.com they ship from germany and got the best prices i've seen (especially the combo sets)

As for the material, for a beginner 0.2mm kanthal and 2mm silica is an easy recommendation. Those 2 work for anything really but down the line, depending on how much room you got in your atty chamber and what kind of power source you got you might want to try something else.

My experience with coil making: It all comes down to making the biggest coil possible with no hotspots. I like big coils because i firmly believe in the theory that the more surface area between the wick and the coil the better. Also i've never had any luck with low wrap count coils so i usually do at least 8.
The legs need to be made out of low resistance wire like nickel or silver or at least double wrapped. Otherwise they get hot faster than the coil = hotspot.
No kinking! Kinked places in resistance wiring tend to have a much higher resistance then non kinked wire = hotspot.
Make it tight! I'm serious, just choke the crap out of the wick (and no wrapping around a needle), i've yet to have any wicking issues but it has solved a lot of hot spot issues since if a loop is loose around the wick it gets hotter faster = hotspot.
Even glowing of the wraps when dry is great but it really doesn't tell you what goes on while the wick is wet, make it wet with ethanol (it has a thermal conductivity very close to VG/PG) and make it glow with lots of watts! Usually turns out that those evenly glowing dry coils are a bit cool near the edges and too hot in the middle = hotspot!
If you're limited on space in the atty chamber (like in a vivi nova), just wrap the coil together with no spacing between the loops at all. Interestingly enough, most of them wont touch and ones that do make a.. cool spot? which don't really cause any problems unless they are too many. Also this way its easier to wrap without a needle since it strenghtens the wick as you wrap.

The best way to test out the quality of your technique is to try the coils with pure VG juice since it's a lot less forgiving than PG and will let you know immediately.
 
Are you a rep for this company?

Lol very explanatory post!
 
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