Squonk Check

[Deleted member 54254]

https://www.steam-engine.org/ohm

Lock the voltage to 4.2 and put in your ohm resistance. the name of the game is to keep the current below the cell rating, simples.

 

[Deleted member 54254]

This is where shit cells with dodgy ratings could bite you in the ass, only buy from reputable vendors especially when dealing with mechs.

 

[stevoknevo]

I`ve just tried it with the supplied atty and got about an hour out of a fully charged P26 before it flashed blue/orange. I`m the first to admit I`m nervous around mechs, back to vape school for me, would you mind sharing how you build for it?

Single Ni80 fused clapton around 0.18-0.2 with a P28, get a full bottle per battery - blue is full battery, blue/orange is about half way, orange only means it's getting low and it also has low battery cut-off so it'll flash orange and not fire once the battery is down to 3.3-3.2v.
It acts as a mech does in the sense it'll only put out whatever voltage is in the battery, so the output decreases as the battery power goes down, but from previous testing there's either a slight boost on the board or it has less voltage losses than a straight mech as it gives a wee touch more power with same atty/battery over a similar mech squonker (I tested using a Runt Arc with all silver contacts, same atty, same type/age of battery and the Aspire had a wee bit more oomph to it)
I'd suggest building slightly lower than your preference on a regulated mod, you'll get longer over the course of the battery of your preferred vape.

I haven't used the stock atty/coils, got three or four of them lying around but they just don't appeal to me.

 

[vapervince]

https://www.steam-engine.org/ohm

Lock the voltage to 4.2 and put in your ohm resistance. the name of the game is to keep the current below the cell rating, simples.

.Edit :- I`m looking to use o.6 ohm dual core clapton and if I`ve done this right that gives a current rating of 7 amps which should be fine seeing as the P26 I`m intending using is 25A?

 

[Deleted member 54254]

Yup, the P26 should be fine at that resistance.

 

[vapervince]

This is where shit cells with dodgy ratings could bite you in the ass, only buy from reputable vendors especially when dealing with mechs.

I`ve got Molicels P26 &P28 both rated at 25 A.

 

[vapervince]

Ignore my last post John I made a balls of a previous post and got myself in a mucking fuddle.

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

The Nuppin’ on top of a Cobra. An 0.9 ohm, 2.5 ID regular kanthal 26 coil.

 

[vapervince]

Single Ni80 fused clapton around 0.18-0.2 with a P28, get a full bottle per battery - blue is full battery, blue/orange is about half way, orange only means it's getting low and it also has low battery cut-off so it'll flash orange and not fire once the battery is down to 3.3-3.2v.
It acts as a mech does in the sense it'll only put out whatever voltage is in the battery, so the output decreases as the battery power goes down, but from previous testing there's either a slight boost on the board or it has less voltage losses than a straight mech as it gives a wee touch more power with same atty/battery over a similar mech squonker (I tested using a Runt Arc with all silver contacts, same atty, same type/age of battery and the Aspire had a wee bit more oomph to it)
I'd suggest building slightly lower than your preference on a regulated mod, you'll get longer over the course of the battery of your preferred vape.

I haven't used the stock atty/coils, got three or four of them lying around but they just don't appeal to me.

This is my first squonker, i`ve been looking at the topside and tomahawk, but bought this before I realised it is a semi reg mech.

 

[Genghis Fogs]

Can anyone give me the heads up on the Hotcig RSQ?