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SUBTANK MINI HELP WITH A TEMP CONTROL MOD?

peety

Postman
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Messages
340
Its a bit of help I need in deciding to go to Temp Control Mods so I want to know the benefits of them.One question I am dying to ask is will it benefit my use of a kanger subtank mini.I got one ages ago but keep going back to it.The one thing that always got to me was the heat that it puts up even at 18watts.I have used the 1.2ohm at 18 to 20 watts and got great flavour but it would burn my tongue and the roof of my moth.I can use other kafuns at these watts and they are a lot cooler.I was wondering if a temp control mod but be the way for me to go and would it control the heat?
 
cant help with TC but ive been using subtank mini for all day custard fix at work for 19 months now and tank doesnt even get warm at 17-18watts and i chain vape half a tank at each break.
 
When I use the rebuildable head and run at 1.6ohms and about 14watts I have no problems with heat its only when I use the 1.2 coil head and run at 18 to 20 watts that I get burnt. But I really wanted to know if Temp Control Mods handle the heat.
 
When I use the rebuildable head and run at 1.6ohms and about 14watts I have no problems with heat its only when I use the 1.2 coil head and run at 18 to 20 watts that I get burnt. But I really wanted to know if Temp Control Mods handle the heat.

Before I got into TC I used to pulse the power as I inhaled because if you keep your finger on that power button the coil keeps heating.

If you have a 4 second 'toot' then another a few seconds later there's still heat in the coil so that second blast will make the coil even hotter, that's when you get into 'burnt' territory.

The idea behind TC is that you set it up for the wattage you'd normally use, the mod monitors the temp/resistance and stops the coil getting too hot. It's much the same effect as pulsing the coil as I mentioned at the beginning.

Of course you can still set the temp too high and still get a burnt sensation. TC will also save you if your wicking isn't great or you run out of juice.
 
Thanks for the help schlinky ,I'm going to try the subtank again and pulse the power to see.And its great to have the temp control Mod explained to me I will go for one now.
 
Thanks for the help schlinky ,I'm going to try the subtank again and pulse the power to see.And its great to have the temp control Mod explained to me I will go for one now.

No worries.

The idea behind pulsing (for me) was to measure the temp with my tongue, if I felt it getting warm I'd back off for a second, whilst still inhaling, then back on for a second or something, playing it by ear ;)

A TC mod will back off on the power (instead of stopping) automatically for you, it's a seamless experience where the temperature just stays at the right level for good vapour. If you need 20w it'll give you 20w, if things get a bit warm it'll back off to 4w until things cool down.... and so on.

I went for stainless steel wire in the end, bit less accurate but more robust and safer if you accidentally put yourself in wattage mode.
 
my subbox mini micro coil should show 0.
5 ohm but it flashes 9.9 ohm and won't fire up. My rda here a pic https://postimg.org/image/7qhxv9fcv/ is this normal? I'm sure my rda post shouldn't be bending should be in a straight line. I'm so sad i can't use my rda. everything else works fine!
 
my subbox mini micro coil should show 0.
5 ohm but it flashes 9.9 ohm and won't fire up. My rda here a pic https://postimg.org/image/7qhxv9fcv/ is this normal? I'm sure my rda post shouldn't be bending should be in a straight line. I'm so sad i can't use my rda. everything else works fine!

Loosen the 510 screw underneath and sort the post out, then tighten the screw.

Looks like you haven't trimmed the wire close enough and it's touching the chimney too
 
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