SXK BB Owners Take Note!!!

[Rob]

This has possibly already been mentioned (@domejunky ) but......... in view of recent talk of replacing Chips and screens etc...... It makes no difference whether it is an SXK Chip OR a DNA Chip.......... The Seal around the Connector in the BOTTOM of the Boro receptacle NEEDS to be replaced!!
I have had more fail than I care to admit to. When the Chip is being replaced........ MAKE SURE that you replace that damn seal too.

I was doing periodic maintenance yesterday on most of ours and they are all now fine. EXCEPT for the ONE DNA40 that has never been near @domejunky workbench. The BB is functioning, BUT, one now HAS to have the Wattage locked, otherwise the wretch will auto scroll to FULL Power and then stick there. I had boxed it up in readiness to be donated as a Donor, but for whatever crazy reason, I popped a Battery in just to see and Hey Presto.......... It worked and the auto scrolling appeared to have ceased. For all of 15 minutes it appeared to be well, but then......... One pull on it instantly told me it was Goosed 40 Watts and stuck solid. Left it for a couple of hours, by which time I got it back to 15 watts and locked it.

Pete tells me that this seal is responsible for 90% of the failures I have sent to him........ So Please, PLEASE remember to change it when you are doing Transplants.

 

[Vapaneezer Scrooge]

You're quite right Rob, it was something I observed while stripping it down.

When I upgraded to the DNA I found no seal at all? just a plastic covered connector.

I am going to strip mine and pop some form of silicon sealant, adding an o-ring type seal will push the connector up too far unless I'm missing something?

 

[Vapaneezer Scrooge]

As additional confirmation I had to alcohol clean the eliquid from the board and housing but also found traces of liquid had even reached inside the positive battery terminal (the black plastic block at the end of the red wire)

 

[StuPot]

I see mentioned every now and then that most BB issues can be solved by cleaning the contacts on the board. The boards of the new ones are coated for protection but the solder contacts aren't.

 

[Phat Barstood]

I've noticed when putting the vapeshell bridge in the boro tank that with the airflow adjuster in place the condensation plug wont fit.Back to adding a little piece of cotton I think.I saw somewhere that some one puts a piece of kitchen roll behind the boro to ease removal,it should soak up any loose juice also.

 

[domejunky]

This has possibly already been mentioned (@domejunky ) but......... in view of recent talk of replacing Chips and screens etc...... It makes no difference whether it is an SXK Chip OR a DNA Chip.......... The Seal around the Connector in the BOTTOM of the Boro receptacle NEEDS to be replaced!!
I have had more fail than I care to admit to. When the Chip is being replaced........ MAKE SURE that you replace that damn seal too.

I was doing periodic maintenance yesterday on most of ours and they are all now fine. EXCEPT for the ONE DNA40 that has never been near @domejunky workbench. The BB is functioning, BUT, one now HAS to have the Wattage locked, otherwise the wretch will auto scroll to FULL Power and then stick there. I had boxed it up in readiness to be donated as a Donor, but for whatever crazy reason, I popped a Battery in just to see and Hey Presto.......... It worked and the auto scrolling appeared to have ceased. For all of 15 minutes it appeared to be well, but then......... One pull on it instantly told me it was Goosed 40 Watts and stuck solid. Left it for a couple of hours, by which time I got it back to 15 watts and locked it.

Pete tells me that this seal is responsible for 90% of the failures I have sent to him........ So Please, PLEASE remember to change it when you are doing Transplants.

I'll await your parcel @Rob

 

[phil#vaping]

Yes took mine apart last night whivh is a sxk dna found some juice inside and the 510 just came straight out so cleaned all out and epoxied it back in and sealed it with silicon hopefully should solve issue

 

[domejunky]

Yes took mine apart last night whivh is a sxk dna found some juice inside and the 510 just came straight out so cleaned all out and epoxied it back in and sealed it with silicon hopefully should solve issue

I've been less drastic - thinking about the guy who has to fix it after me. I've been using contact adhesive or LS50 (food safe silicone that I use for brewing). No good for actually fastening the positive pin, or the insulator - so if any upgrades or rewiring has to happen the parts can be removed again...

 

[phil#vaping]

Here's pic of mine not very pretty but hopefully keep the liquid out prob was a bit drastic but don't want my board being damaged

 

[Vapaneezer Scrooge]

I've been testing out a few things to see how to reduce condensation, I like the idea of tissue (or a skin of Muji cotton) behind the tank but I have noticed something, MTL plugs condensate faster than DTL, I've now taken to swapping the cotton every day to be on the safe side until I seal my pin.

I also have room to open up the cotton hole in the plugs to take more cotton, but I really don't want to release a Version 3 as it's unfair to those that have upgraded to V2, so I am going to see if a simple needle file or craft knife will do it, I will update when I've tinkered.