What's new

Very first coil attempt critique

MTB Vaper

Postman
Joined
Jan 3, 2024
Messages
385
Just done my very first coil attempt, 24gauge kanthal twist wrapped around a 3mm drill bit. It's a Arcane 13 RDA the build deck is tiny not sure I'd attempt a dual coil. The tiny screws are a pain I think 24 gauge maybe to thick for insertion. Looks better to the eye then the photo couldn't get the coil yo focus. Not wicked it yet as I'm still waiting on my first mod.
 

Attachments

  • 20240103_135038.jpg
    20240103_135038.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 65
Just done my very first coil attempt, 24gauge kanthal twist wrapped around a 3mm drill bit. It's a Arcane 13 RDA the build deck is tiny not sure I'd attempt a dual coil. The tiny screws are a pain I think 24 gauge maybe to thick for insertion. Looks better to the eye then the photo couldn't get the coil yo focus. Not wicked it yet as I'm still waiting on my first mod.

It looks good to me.

That deck looks like a pain in the arse to build though - postless decks can be the trickiest buggers to coil on as getting the leg length exactly right is essential. My first postless deck was the Pulse 24 and, although it wasn't my first RDA, I screwed up several coils by cutting just a Teeny bit too short. If you can build that then I can't see you having build problems with any RDA.
 
It looks good to me.

That deck looks like a pain in the arse to build though - postless decks can be the trickiest buggers to coil on as getting the leg length exactly right is essential. My first postless deck was the Pulse 24 and, although it wasn't my first RDA, I screwed up several coils by cutting just a Teeny bit too short. If you can build that then I can't see you having build problems with any RDA.

I was expecting to have to do a few trail runs glad I did ok on my first try. Hardest part was terminating the last leg as the twist wire was hard bend and I had to remove the tiny screws to get the wire under the screws. Getting the tiny screws back in really fiddly. I need to figure out wattage I should use.
 
I was expecting to have to do a few trail runs glad I did ok on my first try. Hardest part was terminating the last leg as the twist wire was hard bend and I had to remove the tiny screws to get the wire under the screws. Getting the tiny screws back in really fiddly. I need to figure out wattage I should use.

When it comes to wattage with DL RDAs just do it by starting low - maybe 25 Watts and bumping up the wattage until you find your sweet spot. There isn't any real problem/worries about burning out the coil - if you do burn the cotton just replace the cotton which will take less than a minute, the coil itself will be fine..

If the coil gets coated in crud just pull out the cotton. press the fire button until the wire gets red hot and quickly dunk the hot coil in water - repeat this 3 or 4 times and the crap falls off. Generally just heating and dunking is enough to remove the crud - if not LIGHT scraping with a screwdriver or knife blade will do it. You can re-use the same coil for a month or two if you can't be bothered to rebuild completely, just clean it when you feel it's getting a bit gunky. but Kanthal is so cheap it costs pennies to replace the coil at every cotton change/clean up if you want.
 
Just done my very first coil attempt, 24gauge kanthal twist wrapped around a 3mm drill bit. It's an Arcane 13 RDA the build deck is tiny not sure I'd attempt a dual coil. The tiny screws are a pain I think 24 gauge maybe to thick for insertion. Looks better to the eye then the photo couldn't get the coil yo focus. Not wicked it yet as I'm still waiting on my first mod.
Looks good!

Without seeing the top cap I can’t comment on how the airflow will line up with the coil height but the spacing looks good and helps reduce hotspots. Now just needs pulsing at low wattage before you wick.
 
So much depends on the height of the air intake, the coil needs to sit squarely in the air flow, which in turn dictates the length of the coil legs, and to complicate the matter some atties have the air intake at a downward angle, best to wick it up and give it a week or so then give it a good looking at.
 
So much depends on the height of the air intake, the coil needs to sit squarely in the air flow, which in turn dictates the length of the coil legs, and to complicate the matter some atties have the air intake at a downward angle, best to wick it up and give it a week or so then give it a good looking at.

Yeah it needs to be raised approx 2mm to 3mm, but the legs are to short as you say I've tried pulling it up but when you let go it lowers straight back. It needs to be just above the upper part of the deck least I'll know for next time
 
Got my mod today, pulsed the coil and burnt it off. It started at 0.68ohm then ended up 0.42ohm. The first pulse takes a while to glow dose 24g twist take a bit longer to heat up? Started at 20w then incrementally increased to pulsing at 40w
 
Last edited:
The way I see it is you've got three options.

1: Suck it and see.

2: Stick the mod in bypass mode and let it tell you what it wants to fire at.

3: Use an Ohm law calculator to work out your wattage from the voltage, resistance and current. You can determine those by using the Steam engine wire wizard to calculate roughly what you're aiming for by the metal type used and the total length of wire, but as your using twisted wire this might not be an exact science unless you know the precise twist pitch you've used.
 
Back
Top Bottom