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Want to re wick my own EVOD/PROTANK

This is a good site for wire (res and non res) https://www.wires.co.uk/index.html

Either Kanthal or Niachrome will work for you and I would sugest you go for .16 rather than .20mm. I guess you want to wind your atty heads somewhere between 1.8 and 2.4ohm impedence. If you go for the .20mm wire you may have dificulty in fitting enough wraps without hotpots (shorting out somewhere to negative). Remember, the thinner the wire the greater the resistance.

When I wick Evods ect, I use 2x2mm wicks side by side and enclose both within the coil. This helps prevent flooding of the atty head (as the wicks fill the cut outs) and prevents raw juice from not getting heated by the coil.
 
I'm not sure that looping a wire around a pin and a wick is the hardest thing for a person to master. ;)
I agree, but as an aid for us newbies to gain the confidence and dexterity to complete a successful re-coil and re-wick, I think they are great. Just completed my first re-build of an Ego EE2 ( with my large sausage fingers it was no mean feat! ) manipulating the, almost invisible, wire ends into their respective place was a bit of a challenge, so was glad of having one less part of the process to fiddle with. Took about 5 mins to get the new coil and wick in place. Popped it on the Vamo to check it and got a reading of 2.2ohm, so am feeling well chuffed with myself. Will progress to making my own coils and wicks as my confidence and dexterity improve. Surely anything that encourages, is a good thing? They are not by any means over priced either.
 
I agree, but as an aid for us newbies to gain the confidence and dexterity to complete a successful re-coil and re-wick, I think they are great. Just completed my first re-build of an Ego EE2 ( with my large sausage fingers it was no mean feat! ) manipulating the, almost invisible, wire ends into their respective place was a bit of a challenge, so was glad of having one less part of the process to fiddle with. Took about 5 mins to get the new coil and wick in place. Popped it on the Vamo to check it and got a reading of 2.2ohm, so am feeling well chuffed with myself. Will progress to making my own coils and wicks as my confidence and dexterity improve. Surely anything that encourages, is a good thing? They are not by any means over priced either.

I've only been vaping since April and bought my own wire and silica a couple of weeks ago - it's really easy, just go for it :D
 
Am looking forward, now after what you might call a dress rehearsal, to experimenting with various coils and wicks. But being blind as a bat and having fingers like a pack of Cumberlands, I thought an easy start would be better than jumping straight into the deep end. There are so many warnings about the process on various sites that it can be a little of-putting, and didn't want my new Vamo blowing up in my hand! :hmm: But this forum is great for advice and encouragement.
 
I'm a complete Techtard and find making coils and wicks easy,and I have the added problem of arthritis in my hands,they are not perfect by any means but they end up neat,and all seem to come out at 1.8 ohms or within 0.1 ohm either way,and flavour and vape is miles better than the rubbish standard coils.
 
:diy:Now that really is good to know. Most info I have seen, seems to stress how important it is to get the thing perfect. Or else risk dire consequences! Am fully convinced and ordered wire and wick from Stealth Vape. Opted for the selection of various diameter wire on a card and 3mm silica wick. Will have a play with it while I have nothing else to as I am currently recumbent with a recently 'screwed back together' hip. And I do mean screwed!:violin:The great thing about forums is to get an honest exchange of views and, more importantly, the advice and encouragement from those with more experience. It encourages those of us who are perhaps a little less confident to give things a go!
 
One item anyone who is starting recoiling should own is a Multi meter irespective of you owning a smart. They are dirt cheep and will make set up much easier. Buy a digital one, expensive ones are low impedence and will read zero Ohms when you touch the probes together..or buy a cheep digital one and subtract the base impedence from your final reading.
 
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