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7.4v lipos

I've been a little busy last couple days but am now able to report...

Pre-made VV devices that can handle higher currents than about 5A are rarer than hen with teeth

Most of the devices are self-build circuits & use Raptor/OKR based PCB's.


My Raptor build is in need of a rethink on wiring,as I don't feel confident in the initial use of recycled mains wiring(especially after the scare with my wooden mod trying to go nuclear)so I've removed all the previous carefully soldered in wires & stored the Raptor away for now.

If your lipo cells were 4.2 V,there are plenty of ready made PCB's that require little more than soldered connections & holes for their screen/buttons etc made in the mod.
 
I've been a little busy last couple days but am now able to report...

Pre-made VV devices that can handle higher currents than about 5A are rarer than hen with teeth

Most of the devices are self-build circuits & use Raptor/OKR based PCB's.


My Raptor build is in need of a rethink on wiring,as I don't feel confident in the initial use of recycled mains wiring(especially after the scare with my wooden mod trying to go nuclear)so I've removed all the previous carefully soldered in wires & stored the Raptor away for now.

If your lipo cells were 4.2 V,there are plenty of ready made PCB's that require little more than soldered connections & holes for their screen/buttons etc made in the mod.

Yea I saw the thread in the scare, at least all didn't go completely FUBAR.

I had thought that would be the case, may have to look at some form of step down type circuit between the battery and chip, which isn't an issue as I will need to keep the balance charge lead and will probably be removing it before charging anyway.

More investigation needed
 
Yea I saw the thread in the scare, at least all didn't go completely FUBAR.

I had thought that would be the case, may have to look at some form of step down type circuit between the battery and chip, which isn't an issue as I will need to keep the balance charge lead and will probably be removing it before charging anyway.

More investigation needed


Found 1,does parallel/series cells & does 40 watts MM360B 40W Chipset
 
I had spotted Seedy had posted this up yesterday but couldn't find a data sheet to see the input values

Certainly could be worth a look although the having to use the board set buttons could be it's only downfall.
That chip can handle series cells so you're all good. The buttons are a challenge but not too much of one. I used a silicone sheet and glued magnets to it for the actuators. Another thing that can be done is to glue magnets to the tactiles.
My next thing I'm going to try is to solder wires to the existing Tacts so I can use my own switches. The legs are visible so I think it would be easy enough.
I'll be interested to see what other solutions people come up with.
 
That chip can handle series cells so you're all good. The buttons are a challenge but not too much of one. I used a silicone sheet and glued magnets to it for the actuators. Another thing that can be done is to glue magnets to the tactiles.
My next thing I'm going to try is to solder wires to the existing Tacts so I can use my own switches. The legs are visible so I think it would be easy enough.
I'll be interested to see what other solutions people come up with.

Ahh then I will be interested to see the outcome of that wee test,

It does seem the best option so far.
 
Also thinking of cutting up a milk bottle ;-) bit of plastic sheet with fingers and stick magnets to that.
 
Think of the little sheet with black dots on under a calculator/phone buttons

Thats what I did with silicone sheet. After I cut the holes in the enclosure, I offered up a bit of sheet, marked the holes, took it out and glued the magnets to the sheet. Once it's dry, I glued the sheet inside the enclosure and droped another magnet through the hole to make the actuator higher. If that makes sense.
 
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