Asgard 30mm

[Keith Vinson]

Purchased the asgard 30mm to go with my topside dual.

So I'm used to building, get great flavour off my various rtas but really struggling with the asgard. It's quite spitty and very muted flavour so any help would be gratefully recieved.

 

[RAPTOREX]

Purchased the asgard 30mm to go with my topside dual.

So I'm used to building, get great flavour off my various rtas but really struggling with the asgard. It's quite spitty and very muted flavour so any help would be gratefully recieved.

I remember that. If it’s spitting, there’s too little cotton, but just inside the coil.
First trick I learned was to slam the coils flat to the deck. Then use a coiling rod to move them up, a tad, to avoid shorting. Then. Remove the ultem insert, and put it over the build. Whilst keeping the coil low, adjust then so the bottom holes, of the afc, are just aimed at the bottom of your coils. You can rake the cotton, if you like. But there’s a lake for a juice well, so extra cotton helps avoid spills, if you knock you mod over.
Don’t be tempted to go over 3.5mm id, there’s just not enough room for bigger.

But it can take series 3.5s. Which, in fairness, is where the Asgard 30 really shines. Sadly it’s the 25 Asgard and 25 Nightmare that really sing with flavour on a 4.2v setup.

 

[Keith Vinson]

I'm using 3mm ID coils. I usually use a coily tool to cut my leg lengths to about 4.5 to 5 mm. Will try a bit lower.
What about coil placement? Pull them to centre or just over the post hole?

 

[Deleted member 54254]

Near to the air holes but not close enough to melt the plastic internal in the top cap.

 

[Keith Vinson]

Near to the air holes but not close enough to melt the plastic internal in the top cap.

Ideal. Thanks. Will give it a go

 

[RAPTOREX]

I'm using 3mm ID coils. I usually use a coily tool to cut my leg lengths to about 4.5 to 5 mm. Will try a bit lower.
What about coil placement? Pull them to centre or just over the post hole?

Yep sorry that’s the second thing I learnt, high coils pulled in towards the centre, kinda makes sense. But it’s exactly the opposite is correct. As @John R points out.
You really can cut it close, with coil placement. Whilst ultem will melt if a coil touches it. It won’t if the coil is only fractions of a mm away. Obviously you need to be careful. Remember metal expands as it heats. But you get the idea.

It took me several builds to to sort my coil placement. So don’t worry if next time it doesn’t drown you in flavour. As long as it’s better than the last build, is all you need.
Also, I’ve found, you can use a good bit more cotton inside the coil than I normally would. But that cured the odd spitting fit, for good.

 

[Keith Vinson]

Yep sorry that’s the second thing I learnt, high coils pulled in towards the centre, kinda makes sense. But it’s exactly the opposite is correct. As @John R points out.
You really can cut it close, with coil placement. Whilst ultem will melt if a coil touches it. It won’t if the coil is only fractions of a mm away. Obviously you need to be careful. Remember metal expands as it heats. But you get the idea.

It took me several builds to to sort my coil placement. So don’t worry if next time it doesn’t drown you in flavour. As long as it’s better than the last build, is all you need.
Also, I’ve found, you can use a good bit more cotton inside the coil than I normally would. But that cured the odd spitting fit, for good.

@RAPTOREX and @John R thank you for the tips. Will give it another bash tomorrow. Leg length wise do you guys use a coily tool, if so what leg length do you go for?

 

[Deleted member 54254]

I just eyeball it, no time for those things to be honest.

 

[RAPTOREX]

@RAPTOREX and @John R thank you for the tips. Will give it another bash tomorrow. Leg length wise do you guys use a coily tool, if so what leg length do you go for?

As I said, I let the coils rest on the deck before I tighten them up. So only long enough so the legs get trapped by deck screws. Which is a long winded way of saying the same as @John R .

I think the Coily site comes up with 5mm, as an average leg length.

actually, for the cost, a pukka Coily tool is handy. It allows you to measure post width, and therefore work out leg length yourself. Which is an excellent step on your rebuildable journey. As you’ll eventually be able to look at a deck, and guesstimate, accurately, the leg length needed. It’s also a good way of supporting the guy who actually came up with the idea, in the first place. As I’ve said, (err kinda) they also have a massive database of leg lengths for just about every atomiser going. Not bad for for the same cost as 20ml of cheap salts.

 

[Keith Vinson]

As I said, I let the coils rest on the deck before I tighten them up. So only long enough so the legs get trapped by deck screws. Which is a long winded way of saying the same as @John R .

I think the Coily site comes up with 5mm, as an average leg length.

actually, for the cost, a pukka Coily tool is handy. It allows you to measure post width, and therefore work out leg length yourself. Which is an excellent step on your rebuildable journey. As you’ll eventually be able to look at a deck, and guesstimate, accurately, the leg length needed. It’s also a good way of supporting the guy who actually came up with the idea, in the first place. As I’ve said, (err kinda) they also have a massive database of leg lengths for just about every atomiser going. Not bad for for the same cost as 20ml of cheap salts.

Again thank you so much for your help. Just awaiting some lovely looking coils from a certain someone off here(not sure if allowed to mention due to site rules etc) and I'll be sticking them in and giving them a bash.