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Help me choose my first sub ohm set up

eazyduz

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May 8, 2015
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I've found 2 good deals on Ebay, first up is this Istick 50w:

Eleaf iStick 50W 4400mah Battery box Mod + Subtank Atomizer vapor in box Black | eBay

Unsure if it is genuine, but in the pics it has all the Eleaf branding. It could be a clone, but they're probably all made in the same factory anyway. Either way at £44 with a free Kanger Subtank is a steal.

Alternatively i found this which definitely is genuine:

iTaste MVP3PRO | Sub ohm Starter Kit | 60w Box Mod | MVP 3.0 Pro | UK Seller | | eBay

More money but has the scratch code to check authenticity. The seller is UK based (only about 30 miles from me as it happens)

Was looking for some opinions before i take the plunge.
Or if anyone can find either of those cheaper i'm all ears! Thanks
 
I've found 2 good deals on Ebay, first up is this Istick 50w:

Eleaf iStick 50W 4400mah Battery box Mod + Subtank Atomizer vapor in box Black | eBay

Unsure if it is genuine, but in the pics it has all the Eleaf branding. It could be a clone, but they're probably all made in the same factory anyway. Either way at £44 with a free Kanger Subtank is a steal.

Alternatively i found this which definitely is genuine:

iTaste MVP3PRO | Sub ohm Starter Kit | 60w Box Mod | MVP 3.0 Pro | UK Seller | | eBay

More money but has the scratch code to check authenticity. The seller is UK based (only about 30 miles from me as it happens)

Was looking for some opinions before i take the plunge.
Or if anyone can find either of those cheaper i'm all ears! Thanks


OK the MVP link went down overnight. But i found it the same price with liquid elsewhere

Innokin iTaste MVP 3.0 Pro | Go-Liquid Ltd UK
 
I'd go for the istick. I love mine and a good size mod for the power and price!
 
Same scenario as another thread.. There's no reason to sub-ohm on a device like that, as you can reach maximum wattage without it. Sub-ohm is about reaching higher watts, but you can reach the highest watts on the iStick as long as you have coils lower 2.0 ohms, and you can reach maximum wattage on the MVP 3.0 Pro as long as you're building below 1.4 ohm coils.

So sub-ohm builds on them devices is pointless, you gain nothing.. You can't get more power out of the devices, or more performance.
 
Same scenario as another thread.. There's no reason to sub-ohm on a device like that, as you can reach maximum wattage without it. Sub-ohm is about reaching higher watts, but you can reach the highest watts on the iStick as long as you have coils lower 2.0 ohms, and you can reach maximum wattage on the MVP 3.0 Pro as long as you're building below 1.4 ohm coils.

So sub-ohm builds on them devices is pointless, you gain nothing.. You can't get more power out of the devices, or more performance.

I'd disagree with that. I have an iStick50 and ST Mini and there is a real difference in the vape between the 0.5 coils and 1.2 coils. Much thicker clouds and better flavour in my opinion.
 
Same scenario as another thread.. There's no reason to sub-ohm on a device like that, as you can reach maximum wattage without it. Sub-ohm is about reaching higher watts, but you can reach the highest watts on the iStick as long as you have coils lower 2.0 ohms, and you can reach maximum wattage on the MVP 3.0 Pro as long as you're building below 1.4 ohm coils.

So sub-ohm builds on them devices is pointless, you gain nothing.. You can't get more power out of the devices, or more performance.

THis should explain it for you:

if you set your DNA (or whatever regulated MOD you have) to 30W with a 1.5Ω build, the battery will be discharging 6.71v to the atomizer, which will likely be way too hot a vape for the vast majority of people. With a .5Ω atomizer set at 30W, the MOD will discharge just 3.87v to the atomizer, which is likely too cool a vape for many (if not most) people.

When sub-Ωing you need to have higher wattages so that you can have adequate voltages in order to fire the coil at a good temperature for vaping.

Were you to lower the resistance of that atomizer even more to .3Ω, it's unlikely that the coil will even fire because the MOD would be discharging just 3v from the battery if it's set at 30W. A DNA device (or any other without step-down circuitry) won't fire it at all.

But perhaps even more importantly, sub-Ωers (and those who don't sub-Ω) like regulated devices because they provide a smooth, robust, consistent vape throughout the entire charge of the battery from the time you pop it in until it gets cut off at 3.2v.
 
It isn't about ''whatever'' regulated mod, it's about the mod in question.

You take a Sigelei 150w for example.. You would NEED to build a coil lower then .4ohms to get the maximum 150 watts due to the voltage being a maximum of 8.2v. If you was running a 1.0 ohm coil in it, you'd only be able to crank it to 67 watts, so there's a need to sub-ohm there if you want to go any higher.

On iStick 50w there's no need, you can reach maximum power without it, same as the MVP 3.0 Pro.
 
It isn't about ''whatever'' regulated mod, it's about the mod in question.

You take a Sigelei 150w for example.. You would NEED to build a coil lower then .4ohms to get the maximum 150 watts due to the voltage being a maximum of 8.2v. If you was running a 1.0 ohm coil in it, you'd only be able to crank it to 67 watts, so there's a need to sub-ohm there if you want to go any higher.

On iStick 50w there's no need, you can reach maximum power without it, same as the MVP 3.0 Pro.

sub ohm coils have thicker wire in them and as a result they heat up faster and the wire has more surface area on the wick meaning more flavor and bigger clouds.
 
I get where you're coming from with the cooler vape bud. Thicker wire takes longer to heat up though.. the more wire the longer. You can't get more flavor or more clouds, that's down to the heat of the coil, the hotter the coil the more liquid being burnt = more vapor. That's what I'm getting at, you're restricted to 50w clearly, or 60w for the MVP, a sub ohm coil won't suddenly make that box mod hit any higher then it's restricted power settings. So building a sub-ohm coil in them devices will allow a cooler vape, but will be a shit vape for that specific coil as it won't be hitting anywhere near it's maximum, and plus as i said before a slightly longer ramp up.
 
It is not just down to the heat of the coil, but also the surface area. As lower ohm wire has a higher surface area it is in contact with a larger amount of juice, allowing it to heat more juice at once, and so produce more vapour.
 
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