i can rebuild a protank/ but after a couple of days replacing with a new one

[flynn]

i have started to rebuild my kanger protank and replacing a new rebuild after a couple of days unlike the kanger heads i have found you would get at least a week from there heads / i use a1 .20 wire and 2.5 with 2 by 1 wicks i put 4 wraps around the wick

 

[robteifi]

It may be something to do with the fact that Kanger heads are usually built with no-res, res, no-res wire, so the only part of the wire that gets hot is the coil itself.

Personally, I use a microcoil with cotton in my protanks and maybe change the wick every 3-4 days, oh, and the flavour is better

 

[flynn]

so in other words ,you thing you are saving money by rebuilding your own but you are nt because the way they build there heads is impossible

 

[robteifi]

The main thing is that using all res wire can heat the grommets and cause them to burn, especially at higher wattages. You can buy premade no-res res no-res wire if you want to try it. Both Stealhvape and GreyHaze do them, something like 50 of them for around the price of one or two replacement heads.

However, with a microcoil the coil heats up before the rest of the wire so it's less of an issue.

 

[flynn]

i buy wick and wires from the vape mesh ,they are a lot cheaper /premade no-res res no-res wire whats the differents from coils

 

[Dr A]

I don't understand this thread.

Got a pro-tank 2, coil it 0.20 on 2mm wick 6 wrap with a flavour wick on top. That comes to 2 ohm. Lasts many days.

Whats this about res-no-res stuff?

Edit: surely the resistance of a wire is something that is always present? How can a piece of wire be res- no-res?

Dr A

 

[robteifi]

i buy wick and wires from the vape mesh ,they are a lot cheaper /premade no-res res no-res wire whats the differents from coils

As I say, you get 50 premade wires for about the same price as one or two complete heads.

I don't understand this thread.

Got a pro-tank 2, coil it 0.20 on 2mm wick 6 wrap with a flavour wick on top. That comes to 2 ohm. Lasts many days.

Whats this about res-no-res stuff?

Edit: surely the resistance of a wire is something that is always present? How can a piece of wire be res- no-res?

Dr A

The wires are welded together, so you have 0 ohm wire (or as close as makes no odds) then a length of resistance wire that will form the coil that heats up, then more 0 ohm wire. The no-res wire is the bit that fits either side of the grommet and will stop it from burning. You may have noticed a change in colour on the grommet where the wire touches it.

 

[Dr A]

As I say, you get 50 premade wires for about the same price as one or two complete heads.



The wires are welded together, so you have 0 ohm wire (or as close as makes no odds) then a length of resistance wire that will form the coil that heats up, then more 0 ohm wire. The no-res wire is the bit that fits either side of the grommet and will stop it from burning. You may have noticed a change in colour on the grommet where the wire touches it.

i'm even more confused now.

What makes the wire no-resistance? Or is it just shielded?

Dr A

 

[robteifi]

It's different wire, ie not kanthal, often just pure nickel. Clearly it's not no-resistance, but it's considerably less resistive than the kanthal that it's welded to so stays cool.

It's most commonly used for certain types of atomisers that have long 'tails' from the coil to the battery connection or where the tail will come into contact with plastic/rubber.

 

[Stanley Spadowski]

The main thing is that using all res wire can heat the grommets and cause them to burn, especially at higher wattages. You can buy premade no-res res no-res wire if you want to try it. Both Stealhvape and GreyHaze do them, something like 50 of them for around the price of one or two replacement heads.

However, with a microcoil the coil heats up before the rest of the wire so it's less of an issue.

This.^^^

The beauty of a micro coil is you not only get more coil surface area, but the close proximity of the wraps cause them to heat from the inside of the coil out, resulting in the legs of the coil staying cool. Using a thicker gauge wire, allows for even more wraps and surface area, and also makes the coil hold it's shape better, which also allows the threading and replacing of the wick to be even easier.

I don't use a Pro Tank, but the same theory applies in general. I have a micro coil in my RDA that is over three weeks old. Every two days or so, I just take some tweezers, pull out the old cotton wick, dry burn the coil, and thread in a new wick. Good as new!

You needn't replace the coil until wither it breaks, or you just get bored and want to try a new build.