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I'm looking at recoiling my protank 2...

mrHAIRYface

Postman
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
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Right so the but that confuses me is what silica and wire I need, I'm looking at coiling at 1.5 ohm but then again I might want to coil at 3 ohm, if I buy silica and wire can I coil both of these with the same stuff or do I have to go out and buy thicker or thinner wire?
 
Btw I'm working towards rba's eventually so don't hate on me if this question seems silly lol
 
mrHAIRYface you can buy a sample pack of wire from stealthvape here

Most of the time I use 2mm or 3mm silica in PT and evod heads, as they are pretty much identical to re-coil

If you look here, on the Wiki, it gives you information about wire resistances and an approximate ohm for length used :)
 
So from what I can gather, .20 or .23 wire would be alrite to go from 1.5 to 3, the graph was a little confusing and to come up with them two numbers, can't tell you how I got them just that with the length of wire, I gathered that was without any coils so when you wrap coils the resistance will increase by itself again? That sound about right?
 
get .2 A1 kanthal or a sampler with 3 different sizes but going for 3 ohms on a coil would take a fair amount of winds and if it's a evod/protank you might struggle to make it fit
 
@mrHAIRYface
What the graph does:
As an example take 0.2 wire, if you cut a 10cm piece make your coil on the silica, fit to the head and then measure the 'cut off legs', say they are both 2.5cm each, you would know your coil had used 5cm = from the chart you can expect a 2.1 or 2.2 ohm coil

The coils make no difference to resistance, each size of wire has a set 'ohm' resistance per metre (first 2 columns)
 
Hi mrHAIRYface I have been using 0.2mm Kanthal on 2mm silica for my PT2. I find that anything around 1.8-2.1 works fine for me. My only niggle is that I was getting a lot of 0.0ohm after doing a recoil. Knowing that I could quite happily recoil Evod heads with no issues this was leaving me stumped for a while. I then discovered that after pushing in the bottom pin and then screwing the head into the base, the pin was actually sat inside the base too much and was not making contact. After this I would push the bottom pin into the rubber gromet almost all the way, but then screw the head assembly back into the base. Once that was in I would then press the bottom of the base on a flat surface so it all sat flush, so far so good. Hope you understand what I am getting at here, if this is your first time at recoiling I thought it might help if you run into the same problem.
 
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Ahhhh I've got ya, my brain tends to over complicate things majorly thanks for explaining it Gilliandrea and I'll make sure to follow your advice u8myufo if that happens lol nice username btw aha
 
I use ready made res/no res wire at 1.8 ohm for all my heads,takes the guess work out of it and I never get burnt rubber anymore due to the no res legs,perfect in my dripper too,2 coils and end up with a nice 0.9 ohm resistance for using on my mech.
 
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