Mark
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If you find the iClear30s a tight draw that puts me off the Kanger Pro if its airier
(still gonna get one though
)
Kanger Protank - mini review
- Thread starter Bryan123456
- Start date
(still gonna get one though
)
If you find the iClear30s a tight draw that puts me off the Kanger Pro if its airier
(still gonna get one though
Same here
thing is if its like the evod for being airy I find the evod makes up for it with large vapour production, so the two sort of cancel each other out, if that makes any sense haha
Mark
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Bryan123456 you say "there were silicone gaskets on both the bottom fitting and the heads"
Can you tell me where the silicone gasket is on the bottom fitting?
Can you tell me where the silicone gasket is on the bottom fitting?
Whistler
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http://www.e-cigarettesonlineshop.co.uk/en/211-kanger-protank.html
Looks a bit wobbly bunch to me, but it may be dandy, I do not know.
Edit: Though I may find out
Just to let it know, I ordered two from there. Only opened the one, and it is as good as the review says. Fast shipping too, ordered Saturday afternoon, got to me today. So as long as they have stock it is safe to grab one.
Mark
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Hold fire cos mine arrived too and I'm anything but happy right now . Leaks like a tap both ends. Looks the nuts. Appears to be genuine. Has everything there that appears in the reviews. But juice pisses away and is not a functional item.Just to let it know, I ordered two from there. Only opened the one, and it is as good as the review says. Fast shipping too, ordered Saturday afternoon, got to me today. So as long as they have stock it is safe to grab one.
Whistler
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Strange. But then I haven't opened the second one and tried that yet lol
Merino-Teflon
Exploding Mod
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You guys! - http://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/f...E-MAIL!/page57?p=106335&viewfull=1#post106335
Works fine for me?
Works fine for me?
Bryan123456
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UPDATE
Firstly an apology - I can't find the PC lead for my phone camera and there will be pics to follow. In the originall review I said I cooked some juice on the first atomizer I used and this is true; if you want a tight draw, this is the way to achieve it.
As a result, I replaced the atomizer with the spare one provided in the kit. If you can hold the tank in one hand and do this with the other one (which I did) this has to be one of the easiest cleanest tank atomizer/wick swap outs - almost as easy as the T3 / MT3.
REWICKING & RECOILING
Having done this I set about seeing if I could rebuild the wick / coil. The centre tube on the atomizer is an interference fit and requires a bit of wiggling towards to two cutouts designed for this and at the same time pulling. To do this I slid the silicone cover back slightly. Once this is out you have access to the coil and wick. The second thing to do is to remove the 510 centre post, which is just a push fit. After that remove the rubberised grommet. This is nice and simple and also provides the connectivity; the +ve sits inside this and connects with the centre post: the negative sits outside it and makes contact with the body.
I then cut a short piece of wick and tried to coil it - at which point the wick fell apart. I then cut another piece of wick and wrapped the ends in foil (thanks to ado28 for this tip) and rewound my coil of 4 turns of .15mm nichrome. This needs long tails which feed down through the body and one inside and one outside the rubber grommet. Holding both tails I pushed the rubber in and then pulled the wick. coil unit down. Then I cut the tails and fitted it into the Protank base unit. The reslt was a 1.8 Ohm coil that worked / works fine.
The Protank at 1.8 Ohms
This, in my, opinion is thee coil resistance this should be supplied with. There's bags of vapour production at 3.7v and at 4.2v it's slightly warm too. The draw is still slightly airy, but this is barely noticeable. I have nothing that produces vapour like this does at such low voltage / power settings. Vapour production was adequate at 3.4 v and it was still producing (though a bit of effort was required) at 3.22v - which is as low as my TTS will go. Flavour was as good as the T3 at 1.8 Ohms too. Infact it wouldn't be unreasonable to call it the T3's bigger, posher and more durable brother .
I can see now why they supplied an Ego Plinth in the kit - it is a superb partner for these. In fact, it's going to be brilliant with anything that's unregulated as at 1.8 Ohms it does the bizzo between 4.2v and 3.4 v and I suspect, that's where it's been designed for. What puzzles me is what they've done to make this so efficient, because it's not the coil, that's home made and the wick is - stumpy is an understatement. I suspect the cleverness is in the airflow and juice delivery.
Firstly an apology - I can't find the PC lead for my phone camera and there will be pics to follow. In the originall review I said I cooked some juice on the first atomizer I used and this is true; if you want a tight draw, this is the way to achieve it.
As a result, I replaced the atomizer with the spare one provided in the kit. If you can hold the tank in one hand and do this with the other one (which I did) this has to be one of the easiest cleanest tank atomizer/wick swap outs - almost as easy as the T3 / MT3.
REWICKING & RECOILING
Having done this I set about seeing if I could rebuild the wick / coil. The centre tube on the atomizer is an interference fit and requires a bit of wiggling towards to two cutouts designed for this and at the same time pulling. To do this I slid the silicone cover back slightly. Once this is out you have access to the coil and wick. The second thing to do is to remove the 510 centre post, which is just a push fit. After that remove the rubberised grommet. This is nice and simple and also provides the connectivity; the +ve sits inside this and connects with the centre post: the negative sits outside it and makes contact with the body.
I then cut a short piece of wick and tried to coil it - at which point the wick fell apart. I then cut another piece of wick and wrapped the ends in foil (thanks to ado28 for this tip) and rewound my coil of 4 turns of .15mm nichrome. This needs long tails which feed down through the body and one inside and one outside the rubber grommet. Holding both tails I pushed the rubber in and then pulled the wick. coil unit down. Then I cut the tails and fitted it into the Protank base unit. The reslt was a 1.8 Ohm coil that worked / works fine.
The Protank at 1.8 Ohms
This, in my, opinion is thee coil resistance this should be supplied with. There's bags of vapour production at 3.7v and at 4.2v it's slightly warm too. The draw is still slightly airy, but this is barely noticeable. I have nothing that produces vapour like this does at such low voltage / power settings. Vapour production was adequate at 3.4 v and it was still producing (though a bit of effort was required) at 3.22v - which is as low as my TTS will go. Flavour was as good as the T3 at 1.8 Ohms too. Infact it wouldn't be unreasonable to call it the T3's bigger, posher and more durable brother
.I can see now why they supplied an Ego Plinth in the kit - it is a superb partner for these. In fact, it's going to be brilliant with anything that's unregulated as at 1.8 Ohms it does the bizzo between 4.2v and 3.4 v and I suspect, that's where it's been designed for. What puzzles me is what they've done to make this so efficient, because it's not the coil, that's home made and the wick is - stumpy is an understatement. I suspect the cleverness is in the airflow and juice delivery.
Mark
Legend
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- Jul 18, 2012
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Grrrr. I wonder why mine is so shite then. It ought to work like any other Kanger. Already lost too much juice. Back in its box for now. I think it's missing some seals or something. When filling it literally pours out of the mouthpiece at the same rate you fill and no I'm avoiding the centre tube just like the T3 and the Evods. I managed to get enough in to invert and Vape but within a minute it was pissing down on to my mod. Not happy
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