Kayfun v4 wick woes

[monstermash]

Guys. Gone of cellucotton/rayon. Think cotton pack has been contaminated as getting little or no flavour and cotton taste. Wicked it several times. Same thing. Orders some more rayon to test more. If it is another failure will stick to KGD with its drier hits.

bhoot have you tried the KGD method posted by ax above? It's pretty good, lasts a good few days and I'm finding it requires the fill cap to be loosened only once or twice a tank, sometimes no times. Your man in the vid uses 24 gauge...I reckon it's better with 28 gauge myself, still with the same 3mm inner diameter of the coil.

I was doing something similar with a poppy wick by separating all the strands (especially the woven 'sheet') and also peeling off the top layer and trimming similar once juiced but I like the touches about rolling the KGD before, combing out some excess and trimming with the squizzors at the correct angle.

ax thanks for posting that clip by the way, I took a couple of good tings from it, innit.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

OK, I've been looking through this thread and no-one has mentioned airflow's part in wicking on the KF4. It's important to remember that the KF4 uses a negative pressure juice feed system, that means that a negative pressure must be created in the atomiser chamber for juice to be pulled up the channels to the wick. The thicker the juice the higher (or rather lower) that pressure must be. If you have the airflow wide open you'll need lungs like a dyson to get even small amounts of negative pressure, tighten up the airflow a bit and you'll find wicking improves tremendously.

Juice flow to the wick also has an effect on the coil temperature at the wick, this in turn affects how long the wick will last. It's important to remember that some liquids simply eat wicks. I vape "Shade" all day every day, I need to change my wick every couple of tanks or the flavour drops off - even using a temp controlled heron atty at 370f - the wick is not burnt, or even particularly dirty just the flavour has dropped off, same thing happens with most liquids I vape so I know it's not the atomisers, I've used KFL, KF4, Aerotanks, Herons, Drippers - all do the same - it's just the way it is.

 

[monstermash]

OK, I've been looking through this thread and no-one has mentioned airflow's part in wicking on the KF4. It's important to remember that the KF4 uses a negative pressure juice feed system, that means that a negative pressure must be created in the atomiser chamber for juice to be pulled up the channels to the wick. The thicker the juice the higher (or rather lower) that pressure must be. If you have the airflow wide open you'll need lungs like a dyson to get even small amounts of negative pressure, tighten up the airflow a bit and you'll find wicking improves tremendously.

Juice flow to the wick also has an effect on the coil temperature at the wick, this in turn affects how long the wick will last. It's important to remember that some liquids simply eat wicks. I vape "Shade" all day every day, I need to change my wick every couple of tanks or the flavour drops off - even using a temp controlled heron atty at 370f - the wick is not burnt, or even particularly dirty just the flavour has dropped off, same thing happens with most liquids I vape so I know it's not the atomisers, I've used KFL, KF4, Aerotanks, Herons, Drippers - all do the same - it's just the way it is.

We all, I'm sure, rely on you Tubbyengineer to keep us righteous in the field of negative pressure dynamics! I'm still getting me head around it meself like.

Although I can confirm, from painful experience, that no matter how much negative pressure you create, if you've installed a shite wick, you're still vaping the lighted-farts of satan's dog.

Whilst we are on the subject of negative pressure, am I doing the wrong thing by occasionally reversing the fill cap half way through a tank, which seems to allow a load of bubble to rise? Is that a good thing or a bad thing to be doing given the desirable negative pressure required in the tank?

The other thing I haven't got my head around, and I don't dispute any logic you've helped me out with previously, is why the Kayfun corp. svoemesto. would create an airflow capability that is seemingly greater than the unit can deliver against, for certain % VG juices, and then release an even bigger airflow centre post upgrade which would imply an even further reduced capacity for high VG. I would have thunk that they would have issued a 'though shalt not vape over x% VG' notice. But anyway Tubbyengineer I don't expect you to have to explain that to me I'm just thinking out loud (probably not a good idea on a public forum)

Anyways what I do know is that that guy's wicking method is pretty effective at max airflow using the stock centre post, and from what you explain, even more so if you tighten up the draw, some.

 

[bhoot]

Monster/Tubby. Good points and comments. Will try AX method I really do not like playing with the wick and messing about with it. The cotton absorbs everything so try to keep it clean and quick. I have bought a 2nd genuine Kayfun v4 tank and will be using the stock air flow pipe instead of the 4s one. Going to compare them and see how it goes.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

We all, I'm sure, rely on you @Tubbyengineer to keep us righteous in the field of negative pressure dynamics! I'm still getting me head around it meself like.

Although I can confirm, from painful experience, that no matter how much negative pressure you create, if you've installed a shite wick, you're still vaping the lighted-farts of satan's dog.

Whilst we are on the subject of negative pressure, am I doing the wrong thing by occasionally reversing the fill cap half way through a tank, which seems to allow a load of bubble to rise? Is that a good thing or a bad thing to be doing given the desirable negative pressure required in the tank?

The other thing I haven't got my head around, and I don't dispute any logic you've helped me out with previously, is why the Kayfun corp. svoemesto. would create an airflow capability that is seemingly greater than the unit can deliver against, for certain % VG juices, and then release an even bigger airflow centre post upgrade which would imply an even further reduced capacity for high VG. I would have thunk that they would have issued a 'though shalt not vape over x% VG' notice. But anyway @Tubbyengineer I don't expect you to have to explain that to me I'm just thinking out loud (probably not a good idea on a public forum)

Anyways what I do know is that that guy's wicking method is pretty effective at max airflow using the stock centre post, and from what you explain, even more so if you tighten up the draw, some.

Releasing the cap releases the vacuum in the tank, it effectively "resets" the tank to the point just after filling.

The negative pressure system works by creating a vaccumm in the tank as you draw, pulling juice into the build deck. once you stop drawing on the atty that vacuum in the tank then pulls any juice not soaked up by the wick and an appropriate amount of air back into the tank until the pressure balances again. So by releasing the cap you remove the vaccuum and allow juice to run into the build deck.

I too am at a loss to explain Svoe Mesto's choice with airflow but I've seen the way some of the Cloudchaser honk on those chuff cap style driptips so perhaps thats where they were aiming with the max airflow.

Frankly I'm not sure about these exotic wicking setups - I've found the dead simple works every time for me, not too much cotton through a coil placed at 90 degrees to the deck so the cotton comes straight out and down the sides and just touches the deck, simple, straightforward and quick...

 

[bhoot]

Update. Been using vaper choice cotton or VCC cotton. Good stuff so far