Measuring amps.

[RicModMaker]

I'd have thought your tin solution should be fine.

Thanks fella. I think you're right. I did a silly thing yesterday and shoved my multimeter on the positive and negative of the 510 trying to measure the amps. I know I should have put the Atty on and measured that but had another seedy moment. The tin blackened but the wires got hotter first. Luckily I realised I was being stupid and got they battery out before it vented. It did get hot but is still functioning.
Me and electrics is a dangerous combination! :-)

 

[Chegs]

I like the keyboard

It's off the first ever PC I ever owned(Compaq Presario)and has withstood "hot rocks" falling on it when I smoked cannabis,oily hands when I looked up fixes for cars/PC's etc,and has been stripped down & rebuilt after each major PC cleaning session,also withstood being scrubbed with nylon bristled brush in washing up bowl to shift the more stubborn shit.I've tried a few times replacing it,but they've been black & hard to see in this darker corner and the black ones lose their lettering after a few months,this one is starting to fade a little which is no surprise as it's been in regular use for about 15 years.

 

[doobedoobedo]

I have the Dell AT102W - the "poor man's model M" of a similar age, also covered in characterful burns . They're practically indestructible.

 

[stealthvape]

I've built a tin mod, used high amp button and wire but it doesn't hit as hard as a mech.
Is there a way to measure amps with a multimeter?

I've got some ammeters similarish to the voltmeters we sell if you really need one? But as mentioned they have to be wired in series in the mod

 

[Tubbyengineer]

You'd be better with Brass sheet to use for battery terminals, easily available from model shops, bonus is a quick rub with a pan scrubber / scotchbrite pad and you get good conductivity and a first class solder joint...

 

[RicModMaker]

I've got some ammeters similarish to the voltmeters we sell if you really need one? But as mentioned they have to be wired in series in the mod

Thanks. I don't think I need one but I want the wires and connections to deliver as much amps as required.
Time for beefy wires :-)

You'd be better with Brass sheet to use for battery terminals, easily available from model shops, bonus is a quick rub with a pan scrubber / scotchbrite pad and you get good conductivity and a first class solder joint...

Thanks bud. I'll gibe it a go.

 

[gords1001]

Regarding the springs, move the wire connection to thr spring tip, either directly or use solder braid down to the base. Its a trick we do on torches to lessen connection resistance. The spring then purely provides clamping force and not current conduction.

 

[stealthvape]

The quality of your solder joints will make a massive difference. Use flux paste and quality solder and make sure you keep your tips clean and wet.

20AWG wire is 16/0.2 in metric if you're shopping on ebay

Refer to chassis wiring on this chart for info
https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilities/isff/LOCAL_access_only/Wire_Size.htm

 

[RicModMaker]

The quality of your solder joints will make a massive difference. Use flux paste and quality solder and make sure you keep your tips clean and wet.

20AWG wire is 16/0.2 in metric if you're shopping on ebay

Refer to chassis wiring on this chart for info
https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilities/isff/LOCAL_access_only/Wire_Size.htm

Thanks for the advice. I'm still unclear on whether its chassis or power transmission as I thought I was transmitting power.

 

[Chegs]

Seedy I'd simply go for the thickest copper cored multi-strand cable I could use without having to compromise on component arrangement. If you can use solid core cables,I would but they can be difficult to work round the restricted spaces. I fully intend routing my negatives via the case rather than adding more wiring(as it is always the negative end of my battery that gets hot in my Kylin/Sigelei mods when a problem occurs)