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Mech mod question

It's simple get a Evolve Kick II, it's a small variable wattage regulator with a few layers of protection built in, the Kick fits right down inside your mechanical device between the positive side of your battery and positive post on your top cap, it will also warn you when your battery voltage drops to about 3.7 volts (don't quote me on the exact voltage) by cycling the Kick on and off thus time to change your battery. I know I know why are you putting a regulated device in a mechanical device, I do it because I like the looks and feel of high end Mech's but I don't like unregulated devices. IMO I get the best of both worlds a great looking well made mech device with battery protection low voltage warning and each and every vape is the same at 4.2 volts as it is at 3.7 volts.
Thanks ladies and germs for
reading the ramblings of a Yank
in Seattle Washington US of A.
 
I just put a multimeter on the vamo and the galileo and the galileo was at 3.9V and the vamo as expected was at 3.7V.
Very odd.

The only Volts that matter with the Galileo are while under load. If you simply took a voltage reading of the Galileo at the connector without firing an actual atty there is something wrong with it. Assuming a fully charged battery (~4.2V) the voltage should pretty much match.

With the regulated Vamo at 3.7V it's a slightly different story, it should remain at ~3.7V with or without a load.

PSST dont use ICR in the mech either

ICR can mean many things, it's not some specific indicator of chemistry. Samsung for example makes various ICR labelled 18650s. They can be the traditional LiCoO2 (LCO), but they also have NCM/LCO, NCM, NCM/LMO ICRs.

not safe chemistry

That's a tough call without knowing the actual specifics of the chemistry.
 
ICR = lithium cobalt oxide and bit safe in mech's with out the use of safety fuse or kicks

IMR = lithium manganese dioxide which has a safer chemistry


 
Cheers guys. This thread is over a month old and because of everyone's guidance,I'm now clued up to batteries. A couple of mechs, RBA/RDA and some nice Sony 30a batts and I'm safely low ohming. Thanks for your help. ;-)

Sent from somewhere in Kent.
www.vapechat.co.uk - Vaping chat room
 
IMR all the way bud in vv/vw's and mechs
Why limit yourself to a paltry ~1600mAh, which is the max a true IMR (LiMn2O4) can manage? IMRs were originally used in high end cordless tools, not anymore.

Cheers guys. This thread is over a month old and because of everyone's guidance,I'm now clued up to batteries. A couple of mechs, RBA/RDA and some nice Sony 30a batts and I'm safely low ohming.

The 30A Sony's may be "nice", but how do the actually perform?

Here's SunVapors 20A Torture Test. Ignore the upswept temperature traces.

Sony_20A_2.jpg


20A would be about a ~ .2Ω coil. Note the extreme voltage drop (it's really struggling at only 2/3rds of it's rating) right from the get go. I've marked when it hit 3.2V. It looks like about ~250mAhs worth of decent vaping (kinda).

FWIW the Sony and Efest curves are way too similar, I'd assume the 30A Efest is just a rewrapped Sony. The minor difference are probably just sample to sample, different run differences.

Let's take a look at a real beast, the Samsung INR18650-20R, a 20A/2000mAh rated battery at the same 20A drain.

SAM_solo_20A_-_1.png


A nice gradual voltage drop from the start and at the same 3.2V cut off it manages ~1125mAh. Basically 4.5 times more mAh. Also note the Samsung red trace is a test of 2 batteries superimposed on each other. That they look like one is a testament to high quality manufacturing.

The Sony should hang it's head in shame.

You can get a pair for about $12 shipped from
SuPower Battery (a good vendor) on eBay.
 
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