My Thursday night in mod making

[jock1092]

So two mods built tonight, thankfully they have broken my 3 build of death streak...
So first a black gboy+ remake of my unregulated parallel build since the old one had taken a fair beating and had some bad tool marks, though a slip of my file made a nasty scratch

Put a modmaker 510 on in place of my old fdv one because they are just better imo
Second is a first for me, a for working 555 pwm build using the breakout v3 pcb in a wideboy100
It was so much easier than the other pwm mods I've attempted but remains unfinished but working as the old fat daddy 510 found a temporary home with it ( will be replacing with a *hopefully* countersunk mm 510)
At this point TinyPic has gone wonky so no nice pics ( just attachments
And for @Bazz_74 a probably poor step by step of the board and a link to the wiring diagram

So my first pic is the parts,
pcb,
0.1 and 0.01 capacitors,
1k resistors
Diodes
N-channel mosfet
Fire switch
510
Dual 18650 sled
Enclosure
10kpotentiometer
555 timer plus the timer mount - the mount is optional but I picked it because of you break the mount you still have the timer that can attach in the same way, with the mount allowing an easy swap out if you break the timer some other way
16 and 24 gauge wire
Heatshrink


1 I started with the caps ( use the pic in modmaker for easy directions on what goes where here)
I bend the legs to fit the pcb, poke through and bend over leg to hold in place then solder
For reference C1 is the 0.1 cap and C2 is the 0.01

2 after the caps I did the resistor on the same way but with a bit more bending on the legs as it was a tight fit
Reference - 1k resistor on the R1 tabs

3 fit the mount by matching the groove at the top with the groove drawn on the pcb, same when attaching the timer

4 - Diodes you need two of these in one hole, I would go for soldering then both to a thin control wire like 22 gauge as it's a tight fit
They have a black end, make sure it one black end down and one up ( so they face opposite directions) and only connect together on the pcb side
These go in the legs hole

5 solder a control wire ( thin gauge) to the wiper tab

 

[jock1092]

So broke off the for a minute

Step 6
I went ahead here and attached thin wires to the Vin and Out tabs, leave them long for now
* if you haven't already done this then trim all the wires now poking through the back of the pcb
Away from the pcb now
7 mosfet time
Attach a 1k resistor to the gate and source pins of the N channel mosfet, then attach thick gauge wires ( 16g and thicker) to the source and drain tabs - I don't have a diagram for that but any n-fet mod diagram does
8 attach the gate tab on the mosfet to The wire from the Out tab on the pcb - remember heat shrink before making the joins as your not slipping it on after

At this point the majority of the work is done

9 from here attach the negative tab ting from your 510 to the drain wire leaving the mosfet - measure this first and decide how you're box is going together

10 battery sled prep - do any sanding and cutting in your sled first
Make a jumper between the tabs on the bottom end of the sled as this is a 2 series build

11 take the source tab wire from the mosfet to the top negative side of your sled and solder

12 I got lost here, you need a wire from the ground tab on the pcb to the negative terminal on the sled, I used 16g as I wasnt sure so went for high current wire to be safe

13 back to those diodes, attach wires to the diodes and lead them to your potentiometers legs, one on each and this will affect which way your power goes ie wire one way you get 100 as 100% power and the other is 100% reduction
I do this at the end because of how I mount it
Continue and attack the center leg, the wiper, to the wiper pad on the pcb
I find waiting until testing before any permanent steps are taken to heatshrink or mount the potentiometer is wise if you forget which way the diodes are /didn't pay attention

14
Attach your 510s positive to the positive terminal on the sled

15 attach your Vin cable to one pin on yout fire switch

16 take a short length of wire from the other leg of the fire switch to your on/off spst/spdt switch ( wire it to the outer leg or as appropriate to your chosen switch) then from the center or other leg of the on/off to the positive of your sled

Now tighten, epoxy or tape your way forward, and don't forget to insulate your parts using heatshrink ect
Search out any potential shorts before putting batteries in and if all is well, test it out and enjoy

IF I MADE ANY MISTAKES LET ME KNOW I'LL FIX THEM AS I'M TIRED WHILE TYPING

 

[jock1092]

Links to mod maker pcb diagram
http://www.modmaker.co.uk/Mod-Making-Supplies/PCBs/PWM-Through-Hole-Breakout-Board
And Mod PCBs wiring guide
https://m.facebook.com/ModPCB/photo...996740266/?type=3&source=54&ref=page_internal

 

[Bazz_74]

@jock1092 Thanks for that mate, just on my way to work but will have a good read at lunchtime.