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Pico - genuine vs fake...

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More details should be along shortly, I've been doing more messing with it than I thought I would (and I had to do stuff with the kids - frankly they outrank you lot by a long way :P)
 
So, the mod.

A few external comparison pics:

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IMG_20191026_132459914~2.jpg


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The grey one is the original, black is copy.

There is a fair bit of handling and use on the og, but the difference in finish quality is still quite apparent. Lots of imperfections on the copy.

The og has a brighter screen, and the fonts are different. Resolution appears lower on the copy, and the viewable angle is much reduced.

The TC modes use different words (temperature vs temper).

The menu system is otherwise the same to use.

I haven't tried connecting the copy to a computer, but I don't hold out much hope of the eleaf software (or arcticfox) recognising it (I may try later).

There is a noticeable weight difference, with a Samsung 25r cell (43.5g) in each, the og is approx 130g while the copy is approx 100g (my digital scales decided they don't like weighing stuff, so weighed with the kitchen scales hence the "approx").


We'll look up their skirts in a bit.
 
Well, just updated my og Pico with the official 1.03 firmware, been meaning to do it for a while...

Flawless, took seconds.

Copy - software doesn't recognise that a device is plugged in. No updates for you.
 
Another bit while I remember, low battery cutoff.

OG says low battery (icon flashes empty) at 3.22v, as measured with meter after removing cell from mod.

Copy says low battery (actually changes display to read low battery) at 3.20v, measured as above.

Taking a 'flat' cell out of the original and putting it in the copy allows 5-10 further puffs at 10.5w.

At higher wattages I would expect the cutoff to show even less disparity, but I only vape at low power so can't easily verify.

The copy appears fairly consistent with this behaviour - I've tested it 5 times so far (stealing cells from the wife's mod as well as out of my pico).
 
Also, standby current.

Copy draws 20mA during switch on with screen on, doesn't register a drain (0.00mA with the meter I used) once the screen turns off.

Original doesn't complete the boot process (on 1.03) through the ammeter so I couldn't complete this test yet, but it hovers around 50mA while attempting to boot. This frustrates me so I'll be trying a different process at some point (and maybe rolling back the firnware - on 1.00 it just turned on instantly while on 1.03 it has a splash screen so takes longer).

It's entirely possible that the OG really does draw more current to boot, due to the differences in the boards (to be covered more in depth later).
 
So it works and hasn't blown up so not really sure what the fuss is about.

The clone/fake will be a cheaper version but is that really an issue?

I mean you can pick up some pretty cheap mods these days but do we really worry about those? Or is it just that this is a copy of a tried and tested device?

I'd be interested to see a comparison of the innerds to see how different they are and how well each has been put together.
 
So it works and hasn't blown up so not really sure what the fuss is about.

The clone/fake will be a cheaper version but is that really an issue?

I mean you can pick up some pretty cheap mods these days but do we really worry about those? Or is it just that this is a copy of a tried and tested device?

I'd be interested to see a comparison of the innerds to see how different they are and how well each has been put together.

That's all stuff I'm intending to cover and give opinions on, hopefully this evening.

I'll give my conclusion on the tank now though...

The tank is extremely poor quality made of completely unknown materials. The metal used for the coil and the fibre for the wick doesn't inspire any confidence whatsoever and I would not be prepared to use it at all. The tolerances are bad and I wouldn't expect it to hold juice at all (leave alone what contaminants it may introduce from the metal chassis, coil and wick as well as the orings which seem flakey).

It's literally a waste of resources having been made.

I have other clone tanks that I use, this tank is nothing over a cheap fake knockoff (I have my own distinction between a clone and a fake).
 
I'm waiting for the upskirt pics. (And probably getting on some sort of register for typing this)
 
SND NOODS is what she said, and I like to be obliging ;)

Genuine first:

IMG_20191026_193854685~2.jpg


IMG_20191026_193919033~2.jpg


IMG_20191026_193928882~2.jpg


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Pretty nicely constructed, nothing looks bad on the PCB, sensible amounts of solder in all appropriate places.




Aaaand, now the copy:

IMG_20191026_193829953~2.jpg


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Well, what can I say.

We'll find out in the next post.
 
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