norwegianvaper
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Great tutorial. What is the purpose of NR-R-NR wire? I use usual Kanthal 1. I'm a newbie and build only single coils. I'ts tricky enough for now 
How To Rebuilding the Kanger (old style) heads
- Thread starter Victor1st
- Start date
twoeyedbob
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only the centre section of no res/res heats up or contributes to the resistance of the wire...this means
A:your not wasting power heating up the legs
B: you get an extra 2-3 wraps per coil
C:the coil is always the resistance that you choose at checkout,no need to work anything out.
D:no guesswork...dark centre section is for the coil..
No brainer ..get some...easier to use and noticeably better performance..
Naturevape use res/no res...nuff said
A:your not wasting power heating up the legs
B: you get an extra 2-3 wraps per coil
C:the coil is always the resistance that you choose at checkout,no need to work anything out.
D:no guesswork...dark centre section is for the coil..
No brainer ..get some...easier to use and noticeably better performance..
Naturevape use res/no res...nuff said
Last edited:
wellemieke
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- Oct 11, 2014
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- 2
Thx for this great and clear tutorial Victor. 
carl cipriano
Postman
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- Jan 12, 2015
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- 92
Using existing kanger coil wire with cotton....
Okay, so I have watched a bunch of tutorials abouot rebuilding coills with the kanger pro tank....I have a pro tank 2 and I have a mini pro tank 2 coming soon....I also ordered a bunch of kanthal wire at different guages, and elkwool and steel mesh...I was going to purchase a Smok Rsst rebuildable atomizer, and I still probably will in the future, but when I saw how simple it is to rebuild kanger bottom coils I figured that I would do that for a while and buy the atomizer sometime in the future. Anyway, I got impatient (even though my supplies will likely arrive within a week), and I decided to see if it was possible to take apart a kanger bottom coil, straighten out the wire, and rebuild it using cotton. My first attempt was to make a micro coil, but the wire kanger uses for their pre-made coils was far too short, thin, and flimsy - after losing one of the wires to the collection of all-sorts under my couch I quickly gave up on that idea! So I took some cotton, straightened out the wire as best I could, cleaning it off as I straightened it, and proceeded to coil.....not an easy thing to do, let me tell you, and the toughest part is getting the legs through the hole at the end because the entire length of the wire straightened was maybe an inch and a half......took me quite a while, but finally I did it.....checked the ohms and to my supreme dissapointment, it read: 0.4!! So, I started all over again, but this time I coiled the wire more tightly, and made about 6 (I thing) wraps around the cotton....another twenty minutes later, having (finally) succesfully threaded the tiny, thin legs through the hole, and put the coil back togetrher...2.2 ohms!!!! When I finally soaked the cotton in ejuice, added a flavour wick of extra cotton on top, and attached it to my pro tank, my vamo v5 read the ohms at: 2.1.....and it vapes beautifully! No reason to do this, really, other than that I was simply curious to see if it could be done. And apparently, it can....but you have to be willing to spend quite a while doing it lol
Okay, so I have watched a bunch of tutorials abouot rebuilding coills with the kanger pro tank....I have a pro tank 2 and I have a mini pro tank 2 coming soon....I also ordered a bunch of kanthal wire at different guages, and elkwool and steel mesh...I was going to purchase a Smok Rsst rebuildable atomizer, and I still probably will in the future, but when I saw how simple it is to rebuild kanger bottom coils I figured that I would do that for a while and buy the atomizer sometime in the future. Anyway, I got impatient (even though my supplies will likely arrive within a week), and I decided to see if it was possible to take apart a kanger bottom coil, straighten out the wire, and rebuild it using cotton. My first attempt was to make a micro coil, but the wire kanger uses for their pre-made coils was far too short, thin, and flimsy - after losing one of the wires to the collection of all-sorts under my couch I quickly gave up on that idea! So I took some cotton, straightened out the wire as best I could, cleaning it off as I straightened it, and proceeded to coil.....not an easy thing to do, let me tell you, and the toughest part is getting the legs through the hole at the end because the entire length of the wire straightened was maybe an inch and a half......took me quite a while, but finally I did it.....checked the ohms and to my supreme dissapointment, it read: 0.4!! So, I started all over again, but this time I coiled the wire more tightly, and made about 6 (I thing) wraps around the cotton....another twenty minutes later, having (finally) succesfully threaded the tiny, thin legs through the hole, and put the coil back togetrher...2.2 ohms!!!! When I finally soaked the cotton in ejuice, added a flavour wick of extra cotton on top, and attached it to my pro tank, my vamo v5 read the ohms at: 2.1.....and it vapes beautifully! No reason to do this, really, other than that I was simply curious to see if it could be done. And apparently, it can....but you have to be willing to spend quite a while doing it lol
Okay, so I have watched a bunch of tutorials abouot rebuilding coills with the kanger pro tank....I have a pro tank 2 and I have a mini pro tank 2 coming soon....I also ordered a bunch of kanthal wire at different guages, and elkwool and steel mesh...I was going to purchase a Smok Rsst rebuildable atomizer, and I still probably will in the future, but when I saw how simple it is to rebuild kanger bottom coils I figured that I would do that for a while and buy the atomizer sometime in the future. Anyway, I got impatient (even though my supplies will likely arrive within a week), and I decided to see if it was possible to take apart a kanger bottom coil, straighten out the wire, and rebuild it using cotton. My first attempt was to make a micro coil, but the wire kanger uses for their pre-made coils was far too short, thin, and flimsy - after losing one of the wires to the collection of all-sorts under my couch I quickly gave up on that idea! So I took some cotton, straightened out the wire as best I could, cleaning it off as I straightened it, and proceeded to coil.....not an easy thing to do, let me tell you, and the toughest part is getting the legs through the hole at the end because the entire length of the wire straightened was maybe an inch and a half......took me quite a while, but finally I did it.....checked the ohms and to my supreme dissapointment, it read: 0.4!! So, I started all over again, but this time I coiled the wire more tightly, and made about 6 (I thing) wraps around the cotton....another twenty minutes later, having (finally) succesfully threaded the tiny, thin legs through the hole, and put the coil back togetrher...2.2 ohms!!!! When I finally soaked the cotton in ejuice, added a flavour wick of extra cotton on top, and attached it to my pro tank, my vamo v5 read the ohms at: 2.1.....and it vapes beautifully! No reason to do this, really, other than that I was simply curious to see if it could be done. And apparently, it can....but you have to be willing to spend quite a while doing it lol
What I did was just pull out the used wicks and put the cotton through the loops
You did it the hard way. I tried practicing with the used wire once, but the legs were too damn short to pull through the hole and plug it without losing my mind.
carl cipriano
Postman
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- Jan 12, 2015
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lol....tou're right.....doing this almost made me lose my mind lol
Over the last few weeks I have had a great time messing about with rebuilding the kanger pro tank coils.....32 guage, 36 guage, 34 guage triple twisted, 32 guage twisted, elkwool, cotton, stainless steel mesh, elkwool and ss mesh, elkwool, cotton AND ss meshetc etc......becoming quite an obsession haha....anyway, my greatest concerns are getting a really nice, smooth flavour while getting my 18650 batteries to last as long as possible.....interestingly, using the protank with my vv/vw Tesla mod (AND SOMETIMES MY VAMO V5), I have concluded that (at least for me), a higher ohms resistance and a little higher voltage setting is working the best for me. Now, this will probably sound super crazy to some ppl, but right now I am vaping with a 34 guage micro coil (7/8 wraps, or 6/7, I am not quite sure), threaded with 2mm elkwool and a couple strands of elkwool as flavour wicks on top, the coil reads 4.5 ohm!? But it is THE best vape so far, and at 4.8 volts I am only pulling around 5 watts from my battery...at 5.3 volts, something like 6 watts....really really interesting...
What I did was just pull out the used wicks and put the cotton through the loops
Over the last few weeks I have had a great time messing about with rebuilding the kanger pro tank coils.....32 guage, 36 guage, 34 guage triple twisted, 32 guage twisted, elkwool, cotton, stainless steel mesh, elkwool and ss mesh, elkwool, cotton AND ss meshetc etc......becoming quite an obsession haha....anyway, my greatest concerns are getting a really nice, smooth flavour while getting my 18650 batteries to last as long as possible.....interestingly, using the protank with my vv/vw Tesla mod (AND SOMETIMES MY VAMO V5), I have concluded that (at least for me), a higher ohms resistance and a little higher voltage setting is working the best for me. Now, this will probably sound super crazy to some ppl, but right now I am vaping with a 34 guage micro coil (7/8 wraps, or 6/7, I am not quite sure), threaded with 2mm elkwool and a couple strands of elkwool as flavour wicks on top, the coil reads 4.5 ohm!? But it is THE best vape so far, and at 4.8 volts I am only pulling around 5 watts from my battery...at 5.3 volts, something like 6 watts....really really interesting...
Over the last few weeks I have had a great time messing about with rebuilding the kanger pro tank coils.....32 guage, 36 guage, 34 guage triple twisted, 32 guage twisted, elkwool, cotton, stainless steel mesh, elkwool and ss mesh, elkwool, cotton AND ss meshetc etc......becoming quite an obsession haha....anyway, my greatest concerns are getting a really nice, smooth flavour while getting my 18650 batteries to last as long as possible.....interestingly, using the protank with my vv/vw Tesla mod (AND SOMETIMES MY VAMO V5), I have concluded that (at least for me), a higher ohms resistance and a little higher voltage setting is working the best for me. Now, this will probably sound super crazy to some ppl, but right now I am vaping with a 34 guage micro coil (7/8 wraps, or 6/7, I am not quite sure), threaded with 2mm elkwool and a couple strands of elkwool as flavour wicks on top, the coil reads 4.5 ohm!? But it is THE best vape so far, and at 4.8 volts I am only pulling around 5 watts from my battery...at 5.3 volts, something like 6 watts....really really interesting...
That sounds great if it works for you! Everyone likes different things I guess. I haven't been convinced with sub-ohming either (tried my friend's), so far I still like 2+ ohms better. But have you tried Protank with the airflow controller? I ordered aerotank v2 and tried its base with the protank 2 and wow, it's awesome, smooth and airy draw. It basically turns the protank into an aerotank. I Ordered a separate base for it right away, so I now use 2x aerotank v2 with Istick30w and Cloupor Mini. It's nice also the tanks use the same spare glass tank and aerotank can be used with the same old single-coils, cuz I'm not too convinced with dual-coils yet.
carl cipriano
Postman
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- Jan 12, 2015
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Pro tank airflow...
Absolutely!!! You are totally right about the airflow connection for the pro tank! I got one a while ago and now I wouldn't vape without it - it really makes a huge difference, especially when I am using my Tesla because unlike the vamo, you cannot unscrew the top little part of the Tesla, so when you screw in a protank all the way without an airflow connector, there is only a really small space pretty deep in the well for air to get into the two tiny holes in the base of the protank. The airflow connector sits on top of the mod, and the three (bigger) holes make a world of difference. I also really like the fact that my coil head does not have to make direct contact with the mod firing pin...don't quite know why, I just really like that set-up. Incidentally, I know I said I prefer higher ohms - but that is in terms of extending battery life mostly.....1.5 to 2.5 ohms seems to be my best "sweet spot" if you will, as far as the best vape experience is concerned. Last night I finally succeeded in making a decent nano coil for my pro tank, and if you have not made one yet, let me strongly encourage you to do so! It is unbelievable how much better it vapes than a regular, or even a regular micro coil!
A lot of ppl use 28 guage wire to make a nano coil, but I don't currently have any, so I used three seperate strands of 34 guage kanthal wire, twisted them tightly together using a drill, torched the wire (well, using a bic lighter to be honest lol), and wound twelve wraps tightly around an over-sized paper clip I have that is roughly the same diameter as an 18 or 20 guage needle. Then (and this took considerable time and effort) I torched and squeezed the coils together until they were all touching each other. I find this is really difficult to do with thin twisted wire, but if you are patient enough it can be done. Having done that, I proceeded to install the coil. 12 wraps of triple twisted 34 guage kanthal JUST fits inside the kanger coil head without touching anywhere....and I mean JUST - like a tenth of a millimetre of space on either side! Oh btw, I am with you on the dual coil thing - first off, they are completely unnecessary with a protank if you make a micro coil...secondly, all they really do is effectively chop the life of your battery in half, and gunk up really fast - I never use dual coils anymore......perhaps on some rebuildable atomizers I can see their use, but not with a pro tank. Okay, then I threaded a tiny rolled length of organic cotton through the nano coil, and topped the whole thing off with 3 or 4 strands of elkwool pulled from a 3 mm braid. The coil comes in at precisely 2.1 ohms, and I can vape with it anywhere between 3.8 and 4.3 volts and get HUGE vapour and awesome taste....very happy with it, I think from now on its nano coils for me!
Absolutely!!! You are totally right about the airflow connection for the pro tank! I got one a while ago and now I wouldn't vape without it - it really makes a huge difference, especially when I am using my Tesla because unlike the vamo, you cannot unscrew the top little part of the Tesla, so when you screw in a protank all the way without an airflow connector, there is only a really small space pretty deep in the well for air to get into the two tiny holes in the base of the protank. The airflow connector sits on top of the mod, and the three (bigger) holes make a world of difference. I also really like the fact that my coil head does not have to make direct contact with the mod firing pin...don't quite know why, I just really like that set-up. Incidentally, I know I said I prefer higher ohms - but that is in terms of extending battery life mostly.....1.5 to 2.5 ohms seems to be my best "sweet spot" if you will, as far as the best vape experience is concerned. Last night I finally succeeded in making a decent nano coil for my pro tank, and if you have not made one yet, let me strongly encourage you to do so! It is unbelievable how much better it vapes than a regular, or even a regular micro coil!
A lot of ppl use 28 guage wire to make a nano coil, but I don't currently have any, so I used three seperate strands of 34 guage kanthal wire, twisted them tightly together using a drill, torched the wire (well, using a bic lighter to be honest lol), and wound twelve wraps tightly around an over-sized paper clip I have that is roughly the same diameter as an 18 or 20 guage needle. Then (and this took considerable time and effort) I torched and squeezed the coils together until they were all touching each other. I find this is really difficult to do with thin twisted wire, but if you are patient enough it can be done. Having done that, I proceeded to install the coil. 12 wraps of triple twisted 34 guage kanthal JUST fits inside the kanger coil head without touching anywhere....and I mean JUST - like a tenth of a millimetre of space on either side! Oh btw, I am with you on the dual coil thing - first off, they are completely unnecessary with a protank if you make a micro coil...secondly, all they really do is effectively chop the life of your battery in half, and gunk up really fast - I never use dual coils anymore......perhaps on some rebuildable atomizers I can see their use, but not with a pro tank. Okay, then I threaded a tiny rolled length of organic cotton through the nano coil, and topped the whole thing off with 3 or 4 strands of elkwool pulled from a 3 mm braid. The coil comes in at precisely 2.1 ohms, and I can vape with it anywhere between 3.8 and 4.3 volts and get HUGE vapour and awesome taste....very happy with it, I think from now on its nano coils for me!
bellyman
Veteran
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- Jan 31, 2015
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I found this vid helpfull.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIoH-mOXKsc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIoH-mOXKsc
carl cipriano
Postman
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- Jan 12, 2015
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- 92
just an update....
Okay, so....first of all, after watching the video about the aerotank dual coil heads, I have decided thats the next thing I am going to try...I am pretty sure that a regular kanger coil head can easily fit two coils, one on top of the other, as long as the wick and coils are not too big....anyway, so, after much trial and error (A LOT of trial and error lol), I finally succeeded in building a 2.5 ohm nano coil that fits nice and snug into a kanger single coil head! I havde made a number of nano coild for the pro tank already, but I couldn't find a way to get higher than about 1.4 ohms......so this morning I twisted one 32 guage kanthal and one 34 guage kanthal wire together, made 13 tight wraps around my giant paper clip (roughly the size of maybe an 18 guage needle? and boom!! 2.5 ohms on the nose!!! Very, very happy with this result, and I think that I will be doing this for a while...my question is, if I wanted to just use one wire and get 2.5 ohms with a nano coil, what guage should I buy? I THINK that a 32 and a 34 twisted together gives me something like a 30 guage wire, but I am not quite sure - in any case, I am definitely going to try the dual coil build, just because I want to see if I can do it - I prefer single nano coils because I think my battery lasts longer that way, but I also think that the dual coil set up may give me better flavour...
Okay, so....first of all, after watching the video about the aerotank dual coil heads, I have decided thats the next thing I am going to try...I am pretty sure that a regular kanger coil head can easily fit two coils, one on top of the other, as long as the wick and coils are not too big....anyway, so, after much trial and error (A LOT of trial and error lol), I finally succeeded in building a 2.5 ohm nano coil that fits nice and snug into a kanger single coil head! I havde made a number of nano coild for the pro tank already, but I couldn't find a way to get higher than about 1.4 ohms......so this morning I twisted one 32 guage kanthal and one 34 guage kanthal wire together, made 13 tight wraps around my giant paper clip (roughly the size of maybe an 18 guage needle? and boom!! 2.5 ohms on the nose!!! Very, very happy with this result, and I think that I will be doing this for a while...my question is, if I wanted to just use one wire and get 2.5 ohms with a nano coil, what guage should I buy? I THINK that a 32 and a 34 twisted together gives me something like a 30 guage wire, but I am not quite sure - in any case, I am definitely going to try the dual coil build, just because I want to see if I can do it - I prefer single nano coils because I think my battery lasts longer that way, but I also think that the dual coil set up may give me better flavour...
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