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Series, parallel switching.

AceMelon

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My little bundle of bits has started arriving.
To keep things small I've picked up a little slide switch that I intend to put inline between the switch and mosfet to stop any accidental firing when it's in my pocket.
But it got me thinking about other switches.
If I connect across the bottom two terminals I effectively turn my parallel battery sled into a series sled. (Which is my plan)

So in theory. If I do that with a suitably heavy wire and a switch in the middle of it. I can make and break that circuit. That's step one. Then I'm sure with a bit of planning and some suitable contact breakers I can fashion a switchable parallel/series device depending on my mood.
Maybe a bit ambitious for a first build, but I'm sure if the initial simpler box goes to plan I'll be building more.
I was only ever going to use a CLK1280 and Nautilus Mini...and look how that worked out ;)
 
My little bundle of bits has started arriving.
To keep things small I've picked up a little slide switch that I intend to put inline between the switch and mosfet to stop any accidental firing when it's in my pocket.
But it got me thinking about other switches.
If I connect across the bottom two terminals I effectively turn my parallel battery sled into a series sled. (Which is my plan)

So in theory. If I do that with a suitably heavy wire and a switch in the middle of it. I can make and break that circuit. That's step one. Then I'm sure with a bit of planning and some suitable contact breakers I can fashion a switchable parallel/series device depending on my mood.
Maybe a bit ambitious for a first build, but I'm sure if the initial simpler box goes to plan I'll be building more.
I was only ever going to use a CLK1280 and Nautilus Mini...and look how that worked out ;)

I doubt you'll find a switch that will cope with the current that will fit easily in a box, ax is your man to ask on this one, however I'd be tempted to use some kind of connector with jumper wires for that job...
 
I doubt you'll find a switch that will cope with the current that will fit easily in a box, ax is your man to ask on this one, however I'd be tempted to use some kind of connector with jumper wires for that job...

It's a long way down the road yet. I was literally floating ideas about. I've got to get this first bad boy built safely before I consider trying anything to clever just yet :)
 
It's something I'm working on atm. There are circuit diagrams out there, you've just gotta hunt 'em down, in fact there's one on here that I posted as a check a long while back, if you go back in my posts you'll find it, it does work. All I ask is that if you use the diagram, you give me credit as this was worked out by myself and not taken from anywhere else. Other diagrams I've found have the batteries in Parallel, and then switch to series, whereas I switch from series to parallel. Doesn't make any difference.

it's down to the switch you use. I'm at a stage with my test box that the parallel side is dead on, but I have excess resistance on the Series side, causing the batteries to sag hard (about 2v), which isn't acceptable imo. A 6-10A AC DPDT rocker or slide switch will do you, but you're better off with at least 10A. I've melted one switch's plastic slide and replaced 2 more trying to get this to work, I'm using a 6A AC slide switch, which may not be up to the Job, although I'm going to try another way of wiring it before I give up on that one and go back on the hunt for a switch that looks good and will hold out. Although, thinking about the configuration of the switch in he other diagram I've found and just sitting briefly drawing the switching out, I may have cracked it and eliminated the resistance.

TLDR; look through my posts for a diagram, 10A AC DPDT switch, it works.
 
For the cost of the massive switch you could build a PWM mod and have proper control over your power instead of 2 settings.
 
For the cost of the massive switch you could build a PWM mod and have proper control over your power instead of 2 settings.


Depends where you're buying from. I mean for the about same price as getting the parts for a PWM (including socket to stop fuck ups) from your site, Seedy, I can get hold of 10 switches.

Each mod type offers it's merits, PWM offers control and regulates the voltage, but from what I've gathered (not got to it yet) is a fiddly bitch to build. Switching allows the use of Parallel and Series configurations (PWM is generally series and as I said above is basic regulated mod), whereas switching is unregulated, so base battery power, which either allows you to build down to roughly 0.08 Ohms safely/build higher and have battery life on 18650s or have the punch of series box and is much simpler to wire, but can sometimes be a bitch when using 2.5mm² (14 AWG) wire for all load carrying (which you should use) to lower the wire resistance and provide less Battery sag and drop.

No harm meant here Rik, just a view from the other side. ;)
 
Depends where you're buying from. I mean for the about same price as getting the parts for a PWM (including socket to stop fuck ups) from your site, Seedy, I can get hold of 10 switches.

Each mod type offers it's merits, PWM offers control and regulates the voltage, but from what I've gathered (not got to it yet) is a fiddly bitch to build. Switching allows the use of Parallel and Series configurations (PWM is generally series and as I said above is basic regulated mod), whereas switching is unregulated, so base battery power, which either allows you to build down to roughly 0.08 Ohms safely/build higher and have battery life on 18650s or have the punch of series box and is much simpler to wire, but can sometimes be a bitch when using 2.5mm² (14 AWG) wire for all load carrying (which you should use) to lower the wire resistance and provide less Battery sag and drop.

No harm meant here Rik, just a view from the other side. ;)
Well that told me didn't it! Harm or not Ax, I wasn't touting what I sell and there are plenty of other places people can get their supplies. I stand by what I said though and irrespective of cost, PWM gives you proper control and just as much power and is really cheap to get the parts. Why settle for 2 settings when you can have full control?
 
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Eh, no offence meant matey, I've sat and looked at switches for these mods for many many hours.. >_<
None taken buddy. I realise you are committed after your research but honestly, give PWM a try. Cheap and more control. ANd really not that hard if you take your time.
 
None taken buddy. I realise you are committed after your research but honestly, give PWM a try. Cheap and more control. ANd really not that hard if you take your time.

Have a PWM board in my stock for a test of a 3S PWM, so it's on the cards that along with a 40A Raptor...
 
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