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MTL SightPic Picatiny RTA Clone

It is. And not intuitive the first time. I remember trying to find instructions when I first got it, because it baffled the shit out of me.

But once you know... 💥

As far as I could work out the OG doesn't come with instructions, @Astral will know, but yep it is hard to write how to fit a coil in words.
 
I can't find it any more, but the instructions that I read were something like "put the wire around the post so it's resting on the raised tooth that is facing outwards, then using fingers or nn pliars pull it into the gum until you hear a click" :11:
 
I can't find it any more, but the instructions that I read were something like "put the wire around the post so it's resting on the raised tooth that is facing outwards, then using fingers or nn pliars pull it into the gum until you hear a click" :11:

Sounds a bit like a dentist wrote that.
 
are folks not worried this click mechanism might break? seems less reliable than screws to me.
 
are folks not worried this click mechanism might break? seems less reliable than screws to me.

I doubt it will actually break as there are no springs to weaken. The reservation I would have is how long will the o-rings remain 'springy' as they could get a bit toasty at times in the base of the atomiser, and would I be able to source spares a few years down the line.

Personally, although it is simple, I'd rather use traditional grubscrews.
 
I doubt it will actually break as there are no springs to weaken. The reservation I would have is how long will the o-rings remain 'springy' as they could get a bit toasty at times in the base of the atomiser, and would I be able to source spares a few years down the line.

Personally, although it is simple, I'd rather use traditional grubscrews.

i think a mechanism with moving parts and o rings working as springs is much less simple than screws. can’t see the point of it myself.
 
I doubt it will actually break as there are no springs to weaken. The reservation I would have is how long will the o-rings remain 'springy' as they could get a bit toasty at times in the base of the atomiser, and would I be able to source spares a few years down the line.

Personally, although it is simple, I'd rather use traditional grubscrews.

You could say the same thing about a lot of kit as regards the availability of spares down the line. That said if you've bought the very expensive OG as opposed to a clone you'd be pretty miffed if you couldn't get spares, it does comes with spare clamp o-rings though I've no idea if you can get them separately.

I imagine we're all so used to screws we'd rather stick with them but it's nice to see something different.
 
You could say the same thing about a lot of kit as regards the availability of spares down the line. That said if you've bought the very expensive OG as opposed to a clone you'd be pretty miffed if you couldn't get spares, it does comes with spare clamp o-rings though I've no idea if you can get them separately.

I imagine we're all so used to screws we'd rather stick with them but it's nice to see something different.

my thinking is you rarely need to replace screws but i think you will definitely need to replace the orings on this attie.
 
my thinking is you rarely need to replace screws but i think you will definitely need to replace the orings on this attie.
I do tend to agree with you. Relatively recently I wanted to revive my old Galaxies RDTA, which was left for 3 years or so with some small residues in.
After dismantling and cleaning, I've realised that I am unable to assemble it back as the orings have swollen that much taht I would brerak glass rather than re-fit it.
Therefore I do believe that three years is max for "normal" orings. I do know that more expensive tanks are using other than buna-n or epdm material, e.g. the one I've just ordered today: The Rook uses Viton orings, so these shall survive longer.
Yet: I really doubt if the original (not mentioning the clone) would have this in mind.
 
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