Wotofo Profile RDTA wrong ohms reading problem

[tolis626]

I'm sorry bud, I haven't a clue how to mark pics. I was referring to the very top edge of the tank section and the area inside at the top (not the exterior which is painted) but I think I gave you a bum steer as it looks like the tank attaches via the threaded centre post in the middle instead of screwing on to the outside.

One thing that does look like it could cause problems is it appears the pin on the tank section is the floating type - instead of a longer threaded pin that screws directly into the positive block of the build deck. If you look at pic no 2 (which I'm assuming is the base of the deck when in RDTA mode) - can that pin be unscrewed slightly without loosening off the positive block so it makes a more solid contact with that floating? If the top of the floating 510 and the brass? screw in the bottom of the deck aren't firmly pressed together that would screw up the ohm reading.

Well, that's what I was thinking, but again it doesn't seem to be the case. In that pic, the "plug" screw is missing from the deck. I tried with that screw tightened all the way down, or unscrewed to the point it's almost not threaded in at all. Makes no difference, ohms go up from what they should be. The 510 pin at the bottom of the tank can't be pushed further in either. I'm almost at the point of wanting to throw this thing out the window. I just love it too much when it works to do that.

EDIT : I just "verified" that the 510 pin and deck brass/gold plated 510 screw are making good contact. I left the screw rather loose, and when I screwed the deck on the tank it popped the 510 pin out the bottom like 1mm. So the contact is tight enough that there's no room for play in the screw. Seems that's not it...

EDIT 2 : As a sanity check, I tried also with the squonk pin in the deck, because that was how it came stock. No dice, same behavior. I took everything completely apart again and I'm letting it soak in a 50/50 mix of water and ethanol, see how that goes.

 

[Crispycritters]

Well, that's what I was thinking, but again it doesn't seem to be the case. In that pic, the "plug" screw is missing from the deck. I tried with that screw tightened all the way down, or unscrewed to the point it's almost not threaded in at all. Makes no difference, ohms go up from what they should be. The 510 pin at the bottom of the tank can't be pushed further in either. I'm almost at the point of wanting to throw this thing out the window. I just love it too much when it works to do that.

EDIT : I just "verified" that the 510 pin and deck brass/gold plated 510 screw are making good contact. I left the screw rather loose, and when I screwed the deck on the tank it popped the 510 pin out the bottom like 1mm. So the contact is tight enough that there's no room for play in the screw. Seems that's not it...

This is a long shot but sometimes removing the screw in the base that holds the negative side of the build deck and putting a small piece of kitchen foil between the two sorts out a bad connection on the negative side (I've done this on a Wismec Guillotine 2 and more recently on a THC One RTA when I had the same problem and it sorted it) - make sure it only covers the area under the negative terminals and not touching the peek or 510. Its a last ditch attempt and a bit of a bodge but it can work. Just don't put it in the same room as a mech mod lol.

 

[tolis626]

This is a long shot but sometimes removing the screw in the base that holds the negative side of the build deck and putting a small piece of kitchen foil between the two sorts out a bad connection on the negative side (I've done this on a Wismec Guillotine 2 and more recently on a THC One RTA when I had the same problem and it sorted it) - make sure it only covers the area under the negative terminals and not touching the peek or 510. Its a last ditch attempt and a bit of a bodge but it can work. Just don't put it in the same room as a mech mod lol.

Luckily, I don't own a mech, lol.

Well, if nothing ends up working, I might as well give that a shot. But right now my inquisitiveness is getting the best of me. I want, nay, need to know what is wrong. There was a period when it was working as it should, but then it stopped and started being wonky. It's gonna drive me nuts if I don't figure this out, even if I don't end up fixing it.

What would really help me at this point (apart from your guys' brilliant suggestions and insight) would be some photos of the RDTA taken apart, so that I can compare it to mine and see what is different, if anything.

To recap, I have ruled out problems with the deck (works fine as an RDA), problems with the steel ropes (does the same thing without them) and problems with the contact of the positive pole (mostly, there is proper contact as the screw below the deck will push the 510 pin in the tank out if unscrewed even slightly). As has been said, it looks like it's a problem with the negative pole, but I can't see any way to test/remedy that apart from your suggestion for aluminum foil. Hmmm...

 

[JohnnyAce]

Haven't read the whole thread but have you tried coils in it? Seems like you've covered everything here

 

[andipandi]

Continuity test, using a multimeter?

 

[tolis626]

Haven't read the whole thread but have you tried coils in it? Seems like you've covered everything here

Yes I have, and it's mostly the same thing. Plus, I didn't really like the thing with coils, so didn't try again. Would've been worth a shot if I hadn't done it.

Continuity test, using a multimeter?

Don't have one, sadly.

EDIT : Bit the bullet and assembled it in RDTA mode. The issue with reading higher resistance persists, but so far it hasn't started being inconsistent and acting as if it got disconnected. I have a 0.2Ω mesh in there and it will reliably read 0.25Ω, +/- 0.02Ω. It's not perfect, but at least it's usable.

 

[tolis626]

Well, crap. Spoke too soon. The thing started acting up again after a couple of days. Went to take a hit and it felt dead. Check the screen and sure enough, it reset itself to 35W and is reading 0.32Ω. My normal 70W setting results in 4.22V and pushes the mesh too much. Sigh...

 

[Cozy]

Well, crap. Spoke too soon. The thing started acting up again after a couple of days. Went to take a hit and it felt dead. Check the screen and sure enough, it reset itself to 35W and is reading 0.32Ω. My normal 70W setting results in 4.22V and pushes the mesh too much. Sigh...

If it still works normally in RDA mode then I'd just bite the bullet and buy another and keep that one as an RDA only if you like it, you would also have spares from the old one like the wicking wires etc for the new one, doesnt seem like your having much luck with it

 

[tolis626]

If it still works normally in RDA mode then I'd just bite the bullet and buy another and keep that one as an RDA only if you like it, you would also have spares from the old one like the wicking wires etc for the new one, doesnt seem like your having much luck with it

I'm considering it. I'd prefer to save this one and spare myself the expense of buying the same atty twice, as there's others I also want to buy (Arbiter 2, Blotto Max, Aromamizer Plus v2/Ragnar, Doom X Mesh come to mind). But truth is I love this thing and I'd rather buy a second one than to have none working as I want it. I didn't use it nearly as much while it was in RDA mode. If I do end up getting a second one and delegating this one to an RDA, I might as well get a squonk mod at some point. I hate dripping.

 

[Cozy]

I'm considering it. I'd prefer to save this one and spare myself the expense of buying the same atty twice, as there's others I also want to buy (Arbiter 2, Blotto Max, Aromamizer Plus v2/Ragnar, Doom X Mesh come to mind). But truth is I love this thing and I'd rather buy a second one than to have none working as I want it. I didn't use it nearly as much while it was in RDA mode. If I do end up getting a second one and delegating this one to an RDA, I might as well get a squonk mod at some point. I hate dripping.

Yeah run both mine as rda on squonk mods they are excellent