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6 million dollar Stubby 21

If you go for a custom mod, DNA is a good choice even if you only use it in VW mode - It’s a stable, reliable and configurable board and likely to still be around in the future. And for the relatively small cost to upgrade from an A N Other chipset, a small price to pay for that peace of mind.
 
I love the Ponte so much that I think it's worth the extra. Plus if I can use shorter Boro tanks and turn it into a normal mod it'll be future proof.
 
Personally I'd forget attempting to buy a mod that can convert from boro to 'normal' tank mode. The chances of you wanting to swap from boro to rta/rda when you are away from home is probably nil unless you habitually carry spare tanks for every occasion when you go out. If you are at home. If you decide to use an rta/rda just pick up one of the mods you already own and put a battery in it.

The only multi purpose boro/rta things I've seen are adapters that you stick in the boro compartment so you can screw a tank into the top of the mod. If you use this type of adapter you will be able to use a boro mod BUT it will then lose the pocketable format of a boro device and will turn into another box with a tank perched on top of it.

I've seen one other high end mod that can convert to an SBS or Boro - this thing is as ugly af - and it relies on press fit electrical connectors to carry the current to the 510/RBA pos and neg. If you have problems now with the 'wheel' (do you mean a screw down battery positive connector) you won't believe the grief press together connections can give. They work fine when assembled and left alone - but when constantly taken apart and reconnected they aren't good.

If the 'wheel' causing problems is the battery contact IS the positive battery connector - have you removed it, cleaned it (preferably with metal polish) and re-assembled? If it is coated a pretty colour - make sure the connecting surface is NOT coated -if it is remove it as paint/enamel on an electrical connection WILL cause problems. Give the battery connecters a clean as well.

There is one other possibility that could be causing issues with your mod. I seem to remember Bogan making a vid about electrical connection issues with the board i can't remember if this applies to the stubby or empire mod or both... but if the Stubby has an easy change board - apparently the board is designed to be changed easily by the user and the pos and neg wires aren't soldered to the board - they are held down by (gold I think) screws. Apparently making sure these screws are tight can resolve many issues.

Good luck.
 
Personally I'd forget attempting to buy a mod that can convert from boro to 'normal' tank mode. The chances of you wanting to swap from boro to rta/rda when you are away from home is probably nil unless you habitually carry spare tanks for every occasion when you go out. If you are at home. If you decide to use an rta/rda just pick up one of the mods you already own and put a battery in it.

The only multi purpose boro/rta things I've seen are adapters that you stick in the boro compartment so you can screw a tank into the top of the mod. If you use this type of adapter you will be able to use a boro mod BUT it will then lose the pocketable format of a boro device and will turn into another box with a tank perched on top of it.

I've seen one other high end mod that can convert to an SBS or Boro - this thing is as ugly af - and it relies on press fit electrical connectors to carry the current to the 510/RBA pos and neg. If you have problems now with the 'wheel' (do you mean a screw down battery positive connector) you won't believe the grief press together connections can give. They work fine when assembled and left alone - but when constantly taken apart and reconnected they aren't good.

If the 'wheel' causing problems is the battery contact IS the positive battery connector - have you removed it, cleaned it (preferably with metal polish) and re-assembled? If it is coated a pretty colour - make sure the connecting surface is NOT coated -if it is remove it as paint/enamel on an electrical connection WILL cause problems. Give the battery connecters a clean as well.

There is one other possibility that could be causing issues with your mod. I seem to remember Bogan making a vid about electrical connection issues with the board i can't remember if this applies to the stubby or empire mod or both... but if the Stubby has an easy change board - apparently the board is designed to be changed easily by the user and the pos and neg wires aren't soldered to the board - they are held down by (gold I think) screws. Apparently making sure these screws are tight can resolve many issues.

Good luck.
Thanks, you do make sense. I love the Stubby 21 but it's not exactly a lightweight dinky thing to start with. I've emailed SM and they are sending me a new board. I would still like a custom mod though even if not boro compatible.
 
I am almost totally Boro Mod user atm. I have 8 in my Rotation of 10, i was thinking of buying the DNA board for the Stubby then decided not too. I have just ordered the MTL Kit for the Stubby and thinking about it i don't think it will get used. I do tend to rush in without thinking, my New Years Resolution is gonna be don't waste money. I lasted a full day last year.
 
Back on the stubby for a sec'...I've not noticed any battery drain problems but once the battery drops to about 75% it'll tell me (low battery)and won't fire till I back off the screw and tighten back up .all is fine then
 
Back on the stubby for a sec'...I've not noticed any battery drain problems but once the battery drops to about 75% it'll tell me (low battery)and won't fire till I back off the screw and tighten back up .all is fine then

Not had anything similar with my Stubby 21, It's a Mod i have had in constant use with some quite heavy usage. I do have an issue with the Aspire Raga when battery drops below 50%. The Mod asks me if it's a new Coil or not. It happened 2 or 3 times when i first got it but it hasn't happened lately. I had a Mod with a similar issue a while back and that seemed to sort itself out.
 
Since I've owned my 2 stubbies I've not no battery drain ever, & these 2 get alot of daily use, I have how ever changed over to Samsung 40 T instead of molicells as I noticed the tops dent too easy on those
 
Back on the stubby for a sec'...I've not noticed any battery drain problems but once the battery drops to about 75% it'll tell me (low battery)and won't fire till I back off the screw and tighten back up .all is fine then
Yes that happens but more like 50% and either loosen or tighten to get a little more out of it. I just don't understand how exactly the same battery can work in another device for a few more hours before showing battery low. The Abyss lasts me all day at work on 1 21700 while I would have changed battery twice on the Stubby and another when home
 
Yes that happens but more like 50% and either loosen or tighten to get a little more out of it. I just don't understand how exactly the same battery can work in another device for a few more hours before showing battery low. The Abyss lasts me all day at work on 1 21700 while I would have changed battery twice on the Stubby and another when home
I've sent a message about it to suicide mods see what they say ...have you put the new PCB in yet? And did it improve ?
 
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