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Charging an 18350

John R Phillips

Postman
Joined
Oct 2, 2022
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656
I’ve just got a new charger that’ll charge my 18350s.
On my other (single bay) charger, the tray is too long and the negative spring clip is miles off making contact with an 18350.
So I was thinking…..
If I cut a (very) short length of copper tube and soldered on a couple of end caps, I could use that as a plug to make up the difference.
I would need to create a solder “nipple” at the “positive” end to make contact with the 18350 flat base negative, and I’d wrap the plug.
Any reasons anyone can think of why this wouldn’t work?
 
I’ve just got a new charger that’ll charge my 18350s.
On my other (single bay) charger, the tray is too long and the negative spring clip is miles off making contact with an 18350.
So I was thinking…..
If I cut a (very) short length of copper tube and soldered on a couple of end caps, I could use that as a plug to make up the difference.
I would need to create a solder “nipple” at the “positive” end to make contact with the 18350 flat base negative, and I’d wrap the plug.
Any reasons anyone can think of why this wouldn’t work?

I recommend you put a copper spacer between the negative contact of the battery and the sliding contact. You could make up a nipple on the spacer, but it seems like unnecessary work. The sliding contact arm and the metal sled it runs through are all part of the same negative circuit so it won't short out if the spacer touches both.
 
Stack of small round Magnets?

A short 18650 to 21700 adaptor would add 5mm ( if thats enough) so could just pop the 18350 inside it
 
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I might be wrong but don't they make 18350-> 18650 adapters?
Yes, battery spacers. Can only find a American website selling them for $10 each so cheaper to get a little charger. If it was for use in a device where bateries could rattle then ok. But just to bridge the gap while charging id be looking for any bolt or screw about the right length and wrap it in insulation tape to pad it out to roughly same diameter.
 
Thank you all for your input and suggests.
It’s heartening that no one has said
“For fucks sake John! - Dont do that, you’ll likely kill yourself” lol
I’ll let you know how I get on.
 
So long as your charger will charge them at low amp its just a matter of bridging the gap.
I usually Use a little xtar travel charger that charges smaller cells at 0.5a though sometimes I just pop in my regular charger wich does them at 1a. I wouldnt charge 18350 any higher than 1a though.
 
The charger is a single bay Xtar SC1
It’s capable of charging at 2amps but I only ever use it with a 0.5 amp usb plug.
Like a nice joint of belly pork, I like it low & slow lol
 
I’ve just got a new charger that’ll charge my 18350s.
On my other (single bay) charger, the tray is too long and the negative spring clip is miles off making contact with an 18350.
So I was thinking…..
If I cut a (very) short length of copper tube and soldered on a couple of end caps, I could use that as a plug to make up the difference.
I would need to create a solder “nipple” at the “positive” end to make contact with the 18350 flat base negative, and I’d wrap the plug.
Any reasons anyone can think of why this wouldn’t work?
I have not used those batteries for years the MAH in them is rubbish , thou I found every charger I have owned has spring contacts that will accommodate 21700, 18650 or 350s .
Thought I would ask what mod are you using 18350s for, is it a mini mech ?
 
I have not used those batteries for years the MAH in them is rubbish , thou I found every charger I have owned has spring contacts that will accommodate 21700, 18650 or 350s .
Thought I would ask what mod are you using 18350s for, is it a mini mech ?
The spring contacts in my single bay fall short of a 350 (and the spec doesn’t list it as a “supported” battery).
I’m using them in a couple of Bantam Box’s I have.
Yes, not the best MAH, but a single battery will do me a day of MTL :)
 
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