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Connection issues

scotty7910

Postman
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Sep 14, 2015
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Bought a used rev 4b (dna40) and I can't get it to fire correctly. In fact at all. Pin seems maybe less than flush. Any ideas as to how to proceed ? Tried more than one boro and bridge.

Thanks in advance
 
Couple of questions, are you getting a stable connection with the ohms displaying?

Have a look on the button side and check that the thin fire switch is in place and central, also does it still click?

Also is it an original fire button?

if the above is okay I would unscrew the board panel and check the 2 wires from the switch are connected. (see photo)

BB-Seal-5.jpg
 
is the screen working at all?
Screen working fine.
Couple of questions, are you getting a stable connection with the ohms displaying?

Have a look on the button side and check that the thin fire switch is in place and central, also does it still click?

Also is it an original fire button?

if the above is okay I would unscrew the board panel and check the 2 wires from the switch are connected. (see photo)

View attachment 190868

Thanks will have a look in a while can't help but think it's a physical problem pin seems low. Doesn't display any ohms just doesn't make connection. Can't help but believe there's a gap from bottom rba to very overly flush looking 510 pin. Maybe been overtightened previous


Thanks to both of You.
 
With everything in place and the side plate off can you see a gap at either contact,can you push a slither of paper between the contacts.It might be the pin it could have taken a knock and moved.Have a look at the pin above,does it look the same.
 
If it's not displaying ohm's then it appears you're right with the connection pin, first 2 options I would try if it was mine:

1: seal the 510 pin but don't push it down too hard, pop the boro with atty in and screw it down but not tight, leave it to set and try it.

2: not ideal but add a little solder to the pin, file it down as you don't want a large blob, it's something I would try though I'm not sure how long it would last.

There's a couple of other things I would try as I'm sure I would get the bugger working one way or another, a small enough o-ring if you can find one to pop under the connection pin housing or tiny brass shim soldered to the pin.

This is all based on if it's not making a connection, be 100% sure it's screwing down all the way and not a problem with the top thread, if you remove the boro and screw in the top piece it should have a gap of 36.2mm from connection to base of the top threaded piece.

The pin should protrude 0.5mm if you have a vernier caliper.
 
If it's not displaying ohm's then it appears you're right with the connection pin, first 2 options I would try if it was mine:

1: seal the 510 pin but don't push it down too hard, pop the boro with atty in and screw it down but not tight, leave it to set and try it.

2: not ideal but add a little solder to the pin, file it down as you don't want a large blob, it's something I would try though I'm not sure how long it would last.

There's a couple of other things I would try as I'm sure I would get the bugger working one way or another, a small enough o-ring if you can find one to pop under the connection pin housing or tiny brass shim soldered to the pin.

This is all based on if it's not making a connection, be 100% sure it's screwing down all the way and not a problem with the top thread, if you remove the boro and screw in the top piece it should have a gap of 36.2mm from connection to base of the top threaded piece.

The pin should protrude 0.5mm if you have a vernier caliper.

Thanks mate,

Don't have a caliper set. How ever I don't reckon it's really protruding at all. So if I used the sealing of the pin as reference to access the pin and somehow get it to move up?
 
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