First mesh build.

[gary68]

Having received my first Mesh RDA. I’ve dropped my first build in.
It’s Wotofo nexMESH Extream supposedly .16 ohms. But reading .13 on the 93Tab and Topgear.
The juice is Sweet Shack strawberry watermelon with 3mg nic and a ratio of 70-30 vg pg.
Thing is, to me, it seems to be needing much bigger Watts than I’d expect. I’m currently running it @75W and the flavour is still a tad muted.
it also. It feels like it’s just on the edge of a dry hit. Without ever quite giving one. And that’s despite the deck wick and mesh being well juiced.
I’m wondering if it’s slightly under wicked.
This is the build. After maybe 20ml of juice.
View attachment 306282

This is my unity setup ...anything much higher and find it too rowdy ..around 2 v is all mesh needs to shine

 

[RAPTOREX]

first of all from your pic the mesh does not look like its quite sitting right , it looks like at a slight angle on the right hand side, so that will affect the reading of the coil & secondly the wicking looks like to much wicking hence the verging on dry hits i do mine simular to this using the wotofo 6mm laces View attachment 306286

Well I’ve definitely under wicked it. All the cotton tails are tucked into the deck, on mine, not cut, as you show.
Lol. The clamp was slightly tilted, which accentuated the misalignment. But after squaring up the clamp and mesh. The ohms dropped to .12 ffs. So somethings awry. But closing down the air and dropping to 55w has improved things.

@JohnNada can you measure the diameter of the pukka mesh bending tool please.
I’ve a selection of metal rods. One might just be the right size?

 

[RAPTOREX]

This is my unity setup ...anything much higher and find it too rowdy ..around 2 v is all mesh needs to shine
View attachment 306291

Humm. I get very little vapour, never mind flavour, to that temp.
I’m going to have to reassess my technique.
I’ll return with my updated build. Though quite when that may be, is rather fluid, I’m afraid.

 

[Mutley1]

Well I’ve definitely under wicked it. All the cotton tails are tucked into the deck, on mine, not cut, as you show.
Lol. The clamp was slightly tilted, which accentuated the misalignment. But after squaring up the clamp and mesh. The ohms dropped to .12 ffs. So somethings awry. But closing down the air and dropping to 55w has improved things.

@JohnNada can you measure the diameter of the pukka mesh bending tool please.
I’ve a selection of metal rods. One might just be the right size?

Well I’ve definitely under wicked it. All the cotton tails are tucked into the deck, on mine, not cut, as you show.
Lol. The clamp was slightly tilted, which accentuated the misalignment. But after squaring up the clamp and mesh. The ohms dropped to .12 ffs. So somethings awry. But closing down the air and dropping to 55w has improved things.

@JohnNada can you measure the diameter of the pukka mesh bending tool please.
I’ve a selection of metal rods. One might just be the right size?

the pic is not mine taken from a thread on here by wotofo i used that pick just too show the angle cut i use & fair enough about the clamp .

 

[JohnNada]

Well I’ve definitely under wicked it. All the cotton tails are tucked into the deck, on mine, not cut, as you show.
Lol. The clamp was slightly tilted, which accentuated the misalignment. But after squaring up the clamp and mesh. The ohms dropped to .12 ffs. So somethings awry. But closing down the air and dropping to 55w has improved things.

@JohnNada can you measure the diameter of the pukka mesh bending tool please.
I’ve a selection of metal rods. One might just be the right size?

Around 6.5mm, using a tape measure as I don't have callipers.

I just had a thought, some people put the spare spring under the clamp so there's two creating more pressure on the cotton against the mesh.

 

[gary68]

Humm. I get very little vapour, never mind flavour, to that temp.
I’m going to have to reassess my technique.
I’ll return with my updated build. Though quite when that may be, is rather fluid, I’m afraid.

I don't use any fancy cotton either ...a regular muji pad strip the outside faces and Scottish roll the whole pad ...it might seem thick but that's what I use and never dry hit ..you obviously gotta floof the ends and then cut on a bevel as @Mutley1 posted

 

[Lisa Bolton]

I have been using mesh for a while and find its about leaving the tiniest amount in the well but lots under the mesh. The angle cutting works for me. Reducing air flow improves flavour and makes it a little warmer

 

[RAPTOREX]

I don't use any fancy cotton either ...a regular muji pad strip the outside faces and Scottish roll the whole pad ...it might seem thick but that's what I use and never dry hit ..you obviously gotta floof the ends and then cut on a bevel as @Mutley1 posted

Is that a whole sheet of 50x60, with just the skins pulled off?
I’d never actually heard of the “ Scottish Roll”. But I have now, thanks, guy.

 

[gary68]

Yep 60 x 50 skin both sides and then watch "YouTube"to see how to Scottish roll.
Your welcome @RAPTOREX

 

[RAPTOREX]

Yep 60 x 50 skin both sides and then watch "YouTube"to see how to Scottish roll.
Your welcome @RAPTOREX

Lol. Just watched and done that. I found a brush handle that’s 6.9mm, which is just right for bending the mesh. Now I’m waiting for the muji to break in.
But the mesh still comes in @.125 not .16. I’ve even tested with the terminal wire clips that come with my Coilmaster 521 Tab. Same reading, .13. No biggie, just wondering why.

anyway. I’m off to find SS mesh. I think Temp control, at least at first, may be wise for me.