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First Super Sub Ohm Build!!!

View attachment 41162

That was the 0.8mm build from last year on the Meph. About 0.3 Ohms.

Clouds AND flavour.

Have now broken 2 pens trying the suggestion from earlier for twisting wire......

What i do is loop around door handle on cupboard...... Forgot that i also have a dremel with a cut nail bent into a hook fixed into it, that works really well


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Right then, I'm gonna be updating the cloud guide later with some updated advice as the stuff on there is rather dated. But, for now, I will type a brief snipppet in here.

Amp Draws, are never what they seem.
Everyone is advised to calculate at 4.2, hell, I calculate at that. But, you will NEVER get 4.2v to your coil on a mech.
why?
Voltage drop.
For example, in order for ME to draw 30 amps, I need to be down at around 0.05-0.06. This is due to the internal resistance of the cell, and the resistance of the mod/rba itself.
As a result, your watts are also way off. I find it nearly impossible to get a true 100watts on a mechanical, even though some of the builds i've used, when put into ohms law using 4.2v , show an indicated 3-400 watts.
The reason we all have to build lower to get bigger clouds, is simple.
as we loose more voltage.
I've seen well executed 0.2 ohm builds kick the ass of 0.04 builds.
why?
As technically, they were getting more power to utilise.

Look at it this way.
You take water, and some tube.
The amount of water stays the same. (Your battery)
As the tube is made thinner, your water comes out the other end at a slower pace.
This, in essence is a really crap example of voltage drop, but it works.
As the tube gets thinner (Your ohms get lower) you get less water (voltage) out.
 
If you don't have a drill you can make twisted wire with a pen with a clip.

Cut off a strip of Kanthal, fold it in half.

The closed end fit round the pen clip, then hold the 2 strands on the open end with pliers and twist the pen round. That's how I have always made mine as can never be bothered to get the drill out :)

View attachment 41139
View attachment 41140

Ditto that's how I twist my coils , used to use the drill but same as you can't be arsed going out , to the van all the time when
there is always a pen at hand , also it does the same job .
 
Last edited:
Right then, I'm gonna be updating the cloud guide later with some updated advice as the stuff on there is rather dated. But, for now, I will type a brief snipppet in here.

Amp Draws, are never what they seem.
Everyone is advised to calculate at 4.2, hell, I calculate at that. But, you will NEVER get 4.2v to your coil on a mech.
why?
Voltage drop.
For example, in order for ME to draw 30 amps, I need to be down at around 0.05-0.06. This is due to the internal resistance of the cell, and the resistance of the mod/rba itself.
As a result, your watts are also way off. I find it nearly impossible to get a true 100watts on a mechanical, even though some of the builds i've used, when put into ohms law using 4.2v , show an indicated 3-400 watts.
The reason we all have to build lower to get bigger clouds, is simple.
as we loose more voltage.
I've seen well executed 0.2 ohm builds kick the ass of 0.04 builds.
why?
As technically, they were getting more power to utilise.

Look at it this way.
You take water, and some tube.
The amount of water stays the same. (Your battery)
As the tube is made thinner, your water comes out the other end at a slower pace.
This, in essence is a really crap example of voltage drop, but it works.
As the tube gets thinner (Your ohms get lower) you get less water (voltage) out.

This is very true and we all know you are the oracle of the super sub ohm.

But when calculating I always use 4.2v as a worst case scenario as I know that it wont exceed that figure.

You still back the copper manhattan for mechanical sub ohming Rags?
 
Look at it this way.
You take water, and some tube.
The amount of water stays the same. (Your battery)
As the tube is made thinner, your water comes out the other end at a slower pace.
This, in essence is a really crap example of voltage drop, but it works.
As the tube gets thinner (Your ohms get lower) you get less water (voltage) out.

Really interesting analogy here and I see what you are getting at.

I know its going to differ between every mod and RDA but what have you found to be the perfect tube diameter (ohm resistance).

i.e. at what resistance does the tube get so thin it starts having a negative effect on the water flow
 
This is very true and we all know you are the oracle of the super sub ohm.

But when calculating I always use 4.2v as a worst case scenario as I know that it wont exceed that figure.

You still back the copper manhattan for mechanical sub ohming Rags?

Nah, stainless smpl. Copper Hattie was given away a while back complete with the soldado.

Really interesting analogy here and I see what you are getting at.

I know its going to differ between every mod and RDA but what have you found to be the perfect tube diameter (ohm resistance).

i.e. at what resistance does the tube get so thin it starts having a negative effect on the water flow

Any.
Its all a balancing act. For example, im actually running a 0.12ohm build atm on the stainless smpl, but it's one of the best builds I've done.
It's all about the following three things:
True voltage
Surface area/heat ratio
Airflow.

Obv, there's more to it than that.
Later on tonight, I'm gonna be doing a full on rejig of the guide, pretty much starting from scratch with a lot more detail than it had before. :)
 
Just wicked the double cross and fucking HUGE clouds, wife has gone fecking nuts about the cloud filling the downstaires, i'll let her calm down then i'll do it again and try grab a pic


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Nah, stainless smpl. Copper Hattie was given away a while back complete with the soldado.



Any.
Its all a balancing act. For example, im actually running a 0.12ohm build atm on the stainless smpl, but it's one of the best builds I've done.
It's all about the following three things:
True voltage
Surface area/heat ratio
Airflow.

Obv, there's more to it than that.
Later on tonight, I'm gonna be doing a full on rejig of the guide, pretty much starting from scratch with a lot more detail than it had before. :)

Looking forward to the read later!
 
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