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First Super Sub Ohm Build!!!

Trying to take a photo with iphone in hand whilst vaping is not easy... Hope this will do, but i'll try get a better one at some point ;-)

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I use an inline voltmeter (not exactly accurate,but helps to see how much I'm losing to internal resistances) & an standalone ohm-meter to measure the coil resistances.

On my old stainless steel 1p metal tube with a side mounted switch,no matter what battery I use the mech suffers such lousy voltage drop that I could probably use a 6" nail for the coil wire & not exceed the 30 amp rating on the battery.It only gets used when a mate arrives & his ego cell expires so has a Samsung ICR in it.

I also have a copper clone,that works very well with the Sony VTC4's but tends to only get used for heating coils to crimp them.

My various lipo boxes though are built with sub-ohm in mind.The first one had just 2 cells (2000 mah) and suffered almost 2 volts drop.I initially blamed the poor wiring/soldering but even changing to solid copper (approx 1.5 mm) did feck all to help it get the power to the coils.I did various experiments & the most successful was adding 2 more lipo cells (4000 mah @ 4.2 volts) and was now using silicon coated cables(from an R/C supplies vendor and approx 2.5 mm)as routing the solid copper was starting to be a PITA.This was by now probably the 6th or 7th revision of the first box.This box could easily run to 80 amps output without stressing the cells in any way,but I was content with 0.2 ohms as it would run this atty for upwards of 30 hours of heavy usage.

Then I was bored so sat typing numbers into an online Ohms Law Calculator and saw how doubling the voltage halved the drawn current but still gave an output of 100+ watts,so out came the soldering iron & the box mod was taken apart,the lipo pack rebuilt with 2 x series & 2 x parallel cells & put back together.This configuration produced almost zero voltage drop,and meant clouds of cooler vapour as I was now running approx 1 ohm dual coils.The biggest issue was finding an RDA with posts set out that could accommodate 15+ wraps of 0.4 mm kanthal.I bought 2 x 28 mm Mutation XL's thinking these would be awesome for 8.4 volts as these still had the same inline 3 posts design of the various 22 mm devices.Unfortunately,the physical size of these means they're not that good & the airflow holes are too high up the sides so to get the best,the coils are mounted on very long legs so the slightest shock(dropping the device as juice gets everywhere)& the bloody coils need redoing.

The best attys I've found for 8.4 volts are...

Zenith (cap can get hot with 3 mm dia coils so this gets 2.5 mm)
Mephisto
Plume Veil (if you drill the air holes slightly larger as the 2 in the top are pointless & the 2 in the negative posts do feck all but encourage the device to piss all over the user,so mine are blocked off)

The best diameter of wire is 0.35-0.4 mm kanthal,wound round a 3 mm drill.Then 12-15 turns gets me dual coils approx 1 ohm which fit under these attys caps without to much tweaking.Wicks can be whatever you prefer(I'm on Muji cotton)but I can strongly recommend converting to squonking as 8.4 volts can get through lots of juice(I can get through 20 ml+ per day dripping)yet 10 ml lasts almost 3 days in the squonker.


Building box mods is actually very easy,all that is needed is a soldering iron & a few drill sizes(there are plenty of circuit diagrams on the net showing howto connect up the mosfet/switch)The various components are easily sourced(modmaker.co.uk/eBay)and if you require changing to lipo power,the cells are cheap from Hobbyking.co.uk(though delivery can be expensive if your choice of cell has to be imported)Even the lipo chargers can be purchased cheaply(mine was just over a tenner)from eBay or Hobbyking.Since I've decided to stay with 8.4 volt mods,I priced up the ready built lipo packs & these go from approx 8 quid upto over 30 quid for 1800 mah+ to 5-6000 mah packs.
 
Okipoki...no probs just bear with me mate ;-)


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