Kindred mech

[MTB Vaper]

Only used the 1.5, you need to adjust the two wheels under the 510 big one is for atomizer first, then the little one after for the battery..

Molicels are tight on the threading part of 18650 extension on mone its rolled inwards a bit from the thread being machined.

 

[Moses]

Only used the 1.5, you need to adjust the two wheels under the 510 big one is for atomizer first, then the little one after for the battery..

Molicels are tight on the threading part of 18650 extension on mone its rolled inwards a bit from the thread being machined.

The 1.5 has chewed up 3 battery wraps so far its so hard trying to get a battery in it.

 

[cloudrider_09]

I'd buy that for... 4.95!

Lol, I ended up getting three of these as backup, but have been using them as a go to.

If you have problems with them firing, double check the contacts are adjusted and try polishing them (the contacts); they may have built up a layer of oxide on them in storage. Rubbing the contacts and battery terminals against your shirt or trousers should be enough; don't use sand paper or emery cloth, you'll go through the silver. That would also explain why someone mentioned it firing but seeming to go flat quickly (the most likely candidate is contact resistance). It should work fine with 1Ω coils in it.

I've tried a HΩ Work 18650 in them and it catches a bit but fits. I've got 10A 4000mAh Fogstar High-Capacity 18650s in them and those work great, lasts ages.

It's difficult to see the parting line but these vapes split in half, about a third of the way down the tube, so you can run 18350 cells in them as well. That's what slightly thicker batteries may catch on when loading them. Try rotating / wiggling them, gently, while loading the cells to get them past the join. You could also try separating the top and base first to see if that's any easier.

 

[Genghis Fogs]

I filled the crap out of the inside of one of mine to fit molicels.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Well I have two of the V2's now, one Stainless steel which is actually copper but finished in SS, so all the threads and contacts are copper so you get the benefit of a more conductive metal with the finish of SS , (I know that the material a mod is made from doesn't make a big difference, I remember the chart that showed how much power you lost between metals of various thicknesses and the difference between copper, brass, aluminium and stainless steel being something like 0.05 of a watt or something stupidly low like that, that would not make much difference in the real world), and also one in Copper.

I love these mechs, they have became my favourite out of all my mechs, both authentic and clones, in the collection- and they cost under a fiver? It's mental I tell ya!

I just need to polish up my copper derringer RDA to use with the copper V2.