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How To re-wick and re-coil a Vision

I came across some more heat resistant sleeving on ebay and sent off for a metre to give it a try:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160857219...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I got the 2mm bore and I've found it much easier to work with than the 5mm I had... seems to work best with thin kanthal (less winds so the coil isn't as bunched).

Done a couple around 2.5 ohms and they're vaping well at 4.5v. ;)


Do you use it as the wick or is it to guide the legs of the coil through?
 
Do you use it as the wick or is it to guide the legs of the coil through?

I put a couple of slits in it for the wick to fit through then feed the coil legs down through it... it's basically to help prevent shorts and it seems to help with wicking when chain vaping.
 
A well written guide, I may try & have a go myself now I've just bought another 4 clearomizers for £20 :doh:
 
A well written guide, I may try & have a go myself now I've just bought another 4 clearomizers for £20 :doh:
Golden rule of Vaping. Spares. And spares of spares. Nothing wrong with a few spare bits and bobs. Never know when they might come in handy.
 
Golden rule of Vaping. Spares. And spares of spares. Nothing wrong with a few spare bits and bobs. Never know when they might come in handy.

Although it might be time to take a pause if you're struggling to close the doors/drawers on the vaping sideboard. (ahem) ;)
 
as mark says, spares,spares and some spare spares after all i used to carry around forty fags when i only needed one or two :)
 
Thanks for this thread verry much. This was the one I want to learn. Yesterday I did the same things with 0.2mm SS wire and rounded 5 wraps. Everything was perfect except the trying process. When I replaced my "new" atomizer to my EGO type battery, led started to blink and not worked. When the atomizer is out, it was working but with atomizer it was just blinking 5-6 times and then nothing. Tried a couple of times to make it work but the result was my battery's funeral. The circuit in it was burned out. What do you think, was this because of a short? Maybe I should make more thank 5 wraps. Please could somebody explain this in any manner?

PS: I bought a USB pass through and now using it. I connected it to an ordinary chinese USB charger and it did the same thing (Blinked 5-6 times and not worked). Then I tried it with my Samsung USB charger and it worked. Maybe this blinking thing is because of insufficient current (?)
 
Thanks for this thread verry much. This was the one I want to learn. Yesterday I did the same things with 0.2mm SS wire and rounded 5 wraps. Everything was perfect except the trying process. When I replaced my "new" atomizer to my EGO type battery, led started to blink and not worked. When the atomizer is out, it was working but with atomizer it was just blinking 5-6 times and then nothing. Tried a couple of times to make it work but the result was my battery's funeral. The circuit in it was burned out. What do you think, was this because of a short? Maybe I should make more thank 5 wraps. Please could somebody explain this in any manner?

PS: I bought a USB pass through and now using it. I connected it to an ordinary chinese USB charger and it did the same thing (Blinked 5-6 times and not worked). Then I tried it with my Samsung USB charger and it worked. Maybe this blinking thing is because of insufficient current (?)


I think that egos blink if your coil has too low resistance or a short. Sorry, I rarely use them now, they're just emergency back-ups so I've forgotten, but think mine did that when I accidentally had the centre post slanted.
First, what is the resistance of your coils? Always measure resistance with a meter before fitting, and don't forget to subtract lead resistance.
It sounds as though either your coil is too low resistance, turns are shorting together or the coil or tail wires are touching something they shouldn't so you have either a short or a dead short.

I always check resistance after winding, again after fitting, then use a mod that will protect from shorts (often vamo as it's so easy to read resistance from it first) starting at the lowest setting.

Egos don't have short protection, in fact when the top came off of one of mine I decided I'd never use them from that vendor again (dirt-cheap battery wrapped in thin plastic with very thin wires to a miniscule circuit board plus connector)

I advise repeated resistance checks and maybe try heatshtink as werll, as suggested.
I did come acrodd one clearomiser that had insulation inside the head tube. It belonged to a friend who keeps his coil-making stuff at my place so his wife doesn't know. Unfortunately when he saw it he asked what it was, pulled it ourt, threw it away, fitted the new wick and coil only one end of the coil was shorting against the side. So he moved it over, checked again, all OK, reassembled, vaped for a day and got a short (coil moved?). That clearo is now useless because it's impossible to dissasssemble, no way can anybody unscrew the bottom to get at the head, maybe cross-threaded, so it went in the bin.

I am running out of space, only got a 1 bed flat.
 
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I think that egos blink if your coil has too low resistance or a short. Sorry, I rarely use them now, they're just emergency back-ups so I've forgotten, but think mine did that when I accidentally had the centre post slanted.
First, what is the resistance of your coils? Always measure resistance with a meter before fitting, and don't forget to subtract lead resistance.
It sounds as though either your coil is too low resistance, turns are shorting together or the coil or tail wires are touching something they shouldn't so you have either a short or a dead short.

I always check resistance after winding, again after fitting, then use a mod that will protect from shorts (often vamo as it's so easy to read resistance from it first) starting at the lowest setting.

Egos don't have short protection, in fact when the top came off of one of mine I decided I'd never use them from that vendor again (dirt-cheap battery wrapped in thin plastic with very thin wires to a miniscule circuit board plus connector)

I advise repeated resistance checks and maybe try heatshtink as werll, as suggested.
I did come acrodd one clearomiser that had insulation inside the head tube. It belonged to a friend who keeps his coil-making stuff at my place so his wife doesn't know. Unfortunately when he saw it he asked what it was, pulled it ourt, threw it away, fitted the new wick and coil only one end of the coil was shorting against the side. So he moved it over, checked again, all OK, reassembled, vaped for a day and got a short (coil moved?). That clearo is now useless because it's impossible to dissasssemble, no way can anybody unscrew the bottom to get at the head, maybe cross-threaded, so it went in the bin.

I am running out of space, only got a 1 bed flat.

Thank you AnnaLaw very much;
I measured the coil's resistance that I tried to do yesterday and it was about 1,2 ohms (5 wraps). Today I tried to do a new one and this time I made 14 wraps and measured about 2,9 ohms resistance. But still the same problem. I took some pictures here:

IMG_1275.JPG

IMG_1276.JPG

As you can see, the legs of the coil are getting hot too and melting the rubber and they are shorting immediately. What did I miss here? :banghead:

PS: There was no sleeve in the atomizer when I dissambled it.

EDIT: In my second try I did it, my insulation was wrong:grin2:. But this time, when I try to vape with EGO battery, battery always blinks. When I tried with a 3.7 li-on battery, it vapes but atomizer gets too hot. Is it normal that the whole atomizer gets hot?

...and don't forget to subtract lead resistance.

What do you mean with "lead resistance"?
 
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