I believed it to be wood because of the texture
And because it neither looks nor feels like any of the other resin tips I've had.
You are the expert though so assuming you are right.
It is the one in the picture which when dry looks to be a very pale green.
I realised when I put it through the ultrasonic cleaner that when it's wet the colour becomes much richer, darker and the "grain" or whatever was used to make it look like grain, more prominent.
Apologies for the lighting but pictures 1 and 2 are dry, 3 and 4 with it dipped in water.
Ideally I want a way to keep it looking like 3 and 4
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ok now I can see it close up I stand corrected (not the first time I may add more the second)
let's get this stabwood cobblers in the open time for a story......
many many years ago when my parents were alive ......
"come and give me a hand son" dad
"what we doing" me
"the bloody windows" dad
in the good old days long before pvc windows we all had wooden ones some were hardwood some if not hardwood, were cheaper softwood, and as the years went along would rot, armed with a brush and jam jars we set about socking the manky wood holes with this clear masty stuff it stank.
"don't get on your skin it burns, don't get it in your eyes you won't be able to see a great deal, and don't be tempted to drink it as I will have to bury you next to the cat" dad
"oh what is it" me
"rot formula, it makes the rotten wood solid" dad
"Will it work" me
"weeeelll it is a start might give us more time" dad
the principle was the same as stabwood get some rotten nasty shit wood must be dry and be very porous then shove it in the mystical solution of cactus juice then bake it in the mrs oven at gas mark 2 till solid however lots of people don't use it as really only works on shitty wood because the wood needs to have lots of holes all the juice does is fill the air gaps up with resin. but here is the thing, if the wood is solid the pressure to get the resin into the center of the wood, is huge and it won't will not ever, ever, never work on hardwood because..... it's hard no air gaps I have left wood under 180 pounds of pressure for 6 months and the mystical juice went into the wood by about 5mm after I cut the block back the resin was all but gone. that's the problem. so block firms used bits of rotten wood or porous wood, dye the wood with some nasty dye to give it a colour then pressure it etc but remember the juice fills the holes the wood is still there, hence why the finish won't come back as new.
but the name stabwood stuck with anything, I use it all the time and so does everyone else......
the tip itself is a brass carrier (there was a load of these floating around from china a few years ago they were nice) the resin is mixed with some bits of wood cut shaped polished and out to the shops....
but you have the same problem as soon as your spit gets on to it, it will react with the tip in regards to wood and resin (acid content in spit) in theory that tip you would sand it polish it and it would look lovely until....you use it for a while you could try to coat it with a clear coat of resin and revamp it .... if someone sent a tip to me I would be diplomatic and sit them down and say "I'm so sorry but we did all we could but your tip has passed....." I expect someone will come on here and say they could do it using this that etc I dare say they are the dogs and better than me....
