UKV Atomizer

[jim532]

*Goes off to look at the price of brass bar*

I rarely use brass. When I do I source lead free brass.

Most are unaware that the vast majority of mass produced (CNCd) brass parts (screws, nuts, bolts ect) are made of CZ121 brass (free machining brass). The reason that grade is used is because its easier to machine due to its 3% (or more) lead content. The vast majority of brass on the market is CZ121. Check it out
http://www.tatasteelnz.com/downloads/Brass_Alloy385.pdf
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sop=15&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=cz121&_ipg=200&rt=nc

Will that lead in the screws ect in your atty do you any harm? That's a question that I am unable to answer. I personally have no concerns about it. But many are sceptical, hence the reason why I don't use it. If peeps want to fit brass screws to my attys its their own choice. I supply them with stainless screws fitted (sometimes Gold plated).

Someone did request that I machine them an atty in copper. No doubt it would look cool. But the problem with copper is its very soft. That's why they add zinc & call it brass. Then add the lead for faster mass production. Does anyone know the content of the brass used in the attys that are mass produced in China? Although they may look like steel, many are brass which has nickel plating to make it nice & shiny. I have modded several of those attys. The lathe ends up covered in a yellow powder. I find the metal very soft & easy to machine, much easier than Aluminium. Since I find the metal to be much softer than any other brass I have machined, I often wonder re the metal's content. I had never before machined brass that disintegrates into powder as soon as the cutting tool contacts it. Since there is no way that the manufacturers will tell me it's content, & there is no way that I would pay to have it analysed, it will remain a mystery to me.

So the best solution for a copper atty is to machine it in stainless then plate it in copper. I have had some copper plating solution sitting on a shelf for about 3yrs. The bottle has never been opened.

However, at some point I will machine some copper drip tips. Yes I will post the pics & send one to Todd for the usual nitpicking

 

[jim532]

What about the rest of the info Jim? When and how much mate?

These went on hold whilst I produced some of the 22mm version (by popular demand) + the drip tips, as peeps were having to ship Teflon drip tips in from the States.

Will I go back & make some more? = no doubt I will at some point. But I will need plenty spare time, as due to the time that it takes to machine the tiny parts, then do all the milling & threading. Then the constant replacement of the taps & Dies that the Ti eats. I earn pennies per hr making them.

When I designed the 22mm version I made sure that the design wouldn't take as long as the 15mm version to produce. The only threading on the 22mm version is in the wick, grounding screw holes & the 510 connector hole.

The centre section on the 15mm atty is only 12mm diameter & takes many hrs to produce. This starts as a solid rod of 304 stainless which is heavily machined with much threading to cut. This is the only part (other than post & screws) of the 15mm atty that is not Titanium. One 15mm atty does however exist which has even that centre part machined in pure Ti. That's Stealthvape's one.



I made one with an Aluminium casing (T6 Grade = very hard) for about £60
Then one with a Pure Titanium casing at £85

So cheaper than the 22mm version & takes much longer to make. But it takes a lot more Titanium to make the 22mm version as its all Titanium.

You will find the odd one appear in the classifieds on UKV. But it can be a long wait for someone to sell one. Very few of the Titanium version get sold. Some guys change their attys frequently, so if you have something nice to swap, a wanted add may work. That's got to be faster than waiting till I get back to making more

 

[goanfatboy]

Did this come back available please?