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Which FT Erlkonigin?

Back at Post 15 said would give sizes of deck screws I got if they fit: they do, and are same as Kayfun, M1.6 x 3 (take a 1.5 allen key).

Anybody reading this has trouble with a wobbly 510 pin; remove screw on base, and use a flat blade screwdriver to tighten the slotted plastic insulator inside the base (kudos to arboreal for this!)
 
I've got the mini and tbh I am just not sure. I expect it's my fault not getting the wicking right but it will work great for about 10 mins then bang dry hit... or bang flooded and juice everywhere. I hve MINIMAL wick in the juice channel (and I mean mouses cock minimal!) yet it still don't want to play ball. When it works its great but it's becoming a pita
 
I've got the mini and tbh I am just not sure. I expect it's my fault not getting the wicking right but it will work great for about 10 mins then bang dry hit... or bang flooded and juice everywhere. I hve MINIMAL wick in the juice channel (and I mean mouses cock minimal!) yet it still don't want to play ball. When it works its great but it's becoming a pita

You need to have quite a lot of wick at the top of the juice channel, in the curved shoulders, going down to a wisp just above the wick ring.

If you can post a pic of how you're building it now I may be able to help.
 
You need to have quite a lot of wick at the top of the juice channel, in the curved shoulders, going down to a wisp just above the wick ring.

If you can post a pic of how you're building it now I may be able to help.

What he said^. Although if the top (thick) part of the wick is too long when you screw the chimney section on, it will block the juice channel completely despite how much tail you have down the channel, giving you poor wicking. As with all juice channel devices (kayfun, orchid, etc,etc) the juice/wick channels need to be able to breath or better put, be exposed to atmospheric pressure. Block them off and you effectively choke/restrict the supply of liquid. To stop that with the erlk you need to cut the top (thick) part of the wick at an angle that matches the contour of the top part of the wick channel and chimney. Now with it cut at say 45 degrees, when you screw the chimney on it won't seal off the channel allowing juice to flow freely.


The erlks a right pain tbh but once you get it right imo by far the best flavour atty out there.

Sent from my iPhone using Planet of the Vapes
 
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I've been doing it with big fat coils, so starting off with a mighty big wick; then (following a guide for the authentic on Youtube, American guy, regret cannot remember his name, is a long video though). snipping away about two thirds / three quarter of the cotton tails, from the Erl's "shoulder pads" on down. With the top firmly on, not had problems with dry hits or flooding since. The fat wick acts as a reservoir for big toots, and it doesn't take much wick in the channel to keep it moist. Oo-er.
 
hmmm... think I may have got a bit closer... wicking fine even on constant tokes although getting a little bit of gurgling, flooding. Nothing to really worry about though tbh. Think I may stick it in rotation with the orchid and rose today and see how it goes
 
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