What's new

Armor mech squonker, parts? Or how to repair?

Mbsun

Postman
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Messages
314
Pics to follow when I find the uploaded.

Right, got an armor mech squonker a bit back, second hand

Usual problem I guess with mech squonkers, vape juice on mechanical contacts doesn't equal longevity

So now unable to get a good contact between the top and bottom of the 510 across what I will describe as the bridge.
Problem 1 is the "pit" on the top part of the 510.
Problem 2 is the" bridge" is flatter than it was when original, especially on the top where it met and created the pit

I do get a connection but the voltage drop is massive

So can I get parts, I will throw money at it if I have to

Or is soldering the pit full about the best option?
 


Hopefully last image gives you an idea of how it works.
If you imagine the "bridge" above the 510 instead of below, when hou press the fire button it presses on the 510 linking the top and bottom together
 
If you're not competent to fabricate replacement parts the only thing I can suggest is message someone like the below that stocked them.


 
If you're not competent to fabricate replacement parts the only thing I can suggest is message someone like the below that stocked them.


I will attempt to do this, ime I am probably peeing in the wind, but it's worth a shot tbf
 
Can the 510 be rotated so the contact is made on non-pitted metal?
No, but actually yes and I am going to have a go
Lol, the reason no, it's one piece that goes across to the top of the battery (at a right angle), but it's fatigued and been repaired in the past , so the top part cannot rotate but the bottom can.

Only now it can as I broke it!

So I will smooth everything up, rotate it, and solder the "arm" back onto the 510

Had the 510 proper stripped down trying to find out where the juice snuck in, to replace any seals, so understand this thing quite well now I think (hope).

Not sure how good solder conducts though my aim is to have the arm touching the cylinder and the solder only holding in place
 
Tbh I hadn't thought about that as being an option. I guess probably a pricey one but next time I will ask the question


As goes I managed to do what I mentioned, rotating the top part /outer sleave of the 510.
I wasn't sure how viable this would be as I needed to use a lot of solder for strength, and the solder I am sure is providing 100% of the conductivity (even though I didn't want it to)

Its a tricky job, as there is only like 1mm clearance everywhere between the positive "arm" and the negative top plate, and I needed to create shoulders on the solder for strength, but not so big as to foul onto the negative battery tube, or the trigger.
So after one shorted battery, and one hot as hell top plate I got it perfected, with a lot of stone rubbing and wet and dry!!! Only took 2 hours lol

No shorts though, and no noticeable voltage drop swapping an rdta with a 0.12 build from a hybrid tube onto it (something powerful where i will be able to easily spot the differance (not what I normally use on it)

Happy days
 
Back
Top Bottom