Batteries for low/sub ohm builds

[Raguri]

Ill keep that in mind, but have you seen MCV's new overdose mod . . . ? Awesome!

I have indeed, I'm just not a fan of full copper haha

 

[marcus-mulisha]

Trust me... the effort involved with keeping a copper mod untarnished, and unseized isn't worth the effort. My boss has a copper mod. 9 times out of 10 when he wants to use it, something has seized.

Ive heard copper mods have a habit locking up if over tightened, RIP Tripper on YouTube had his top cap lock on him. Thanks for reminding me about that, maybe ill go back to the panzer!

 

[VeeDubZ]

blackhawk panzer has terrible voltage drop because of the coated threads, it can be fixed though.

 

[marcus-mulisha]

blackhawk panzer has terrible voltage drop because of the coated threads, it can be fixed though.

Ill keep that in mind, I do prefer the standard panzer though.

 

[gords1001]

Midlands vaping do the kultura for £85. Mine came with both copper and silver pins. Its a good mod imo and pinnoy through and through.

However. There's no need not to build on your vamo, just keep thr coils above 1.2ohm and it'll fire them. Building is building, its all good practice.

 

[marcus-mulisha]

Midlands vaping do the kultura for £85. Mine came with both copper and silver pins. Its a good mod imo and pinnoy through and through.

However. There's no need not to build on your vamo, just keep thr coils above 1.2ohm and it'll fire them. Building is building, its all good practice.

I didn't think of that, so keep above 1.2 and I'll be good? I'll get some building supplies in then. Where is the best place to get kanthol?

 

[Dennis]

Ohms Law will point you towards a suitable battery. For example, a 0.5ohm coil recieving 4.0 volts, will draw 8 amps, so, you require a battery that has a minimum of an 8 amp draw, and for safety, the higher amps the better because more will never hurt, but less can.

HUH?!

 

[gords1001]

HUH?!

If your unsure about this, you really need to ask the questions, without being melodramatic, getting it wrong could result in death or dismemberment.

You need to understand how your coil resistance relates to the current draw on your cell so you can assess weather firing that coil with that cell is safe.

This is absolutely no shit seriously important. Sub ohming is just as safe as any other kind of vaping, IF THE VAPER FULLY UNDERSTANDS WHAT THEY ARE DOING. If they dont, its as potentially lethal as a loaded gun.

You need to know and be able to work out

Coil resistance and how it relates to current draw on your device.
Amp limit on your cells and if your buipd is within those limits.
Difference in icr and imr/inr (inr is samsung cells, accept they are imr) and hybrid cells and how each applies to your usage.

Indications of an unhappy cell/build (hot button/tube indicating shorts) and what to do vis a vis when to either rip the mod apart or throw it in one direction whilst running in the other.

This all sounds scary because its meant to, lithium cells going bad is really not something to fuck about with, I happily vape sub ohm on every device I have in circulation, my most used rig is a .3ohm dripper, but I know that is within the limits of most of my cells, I have lower limit cells that are only good for 10a or .6ohm builds, they are extremely good cells but they have their limits so I stay within them. You need to know both your cell limits and what your builds will draw so you can tell if your vaping safe or not.

You only need be concerned with constant current, forget the pulse bullshit, thats a stupid assumption to make, if your above constant current dont fire it.

 

[StuPot]

I'm using batteries which came with a £100 bike light, I assumed they were good ones but after googling I found this info "3.7V 2400 mAH 2 Amp Protected" ahh crap I'm going to have to splash out for better batteries. I've not being sub ohming, lowest I've gone is 1.5 ohm but I guess this is even too low for these? They never get hot. I'm currently using a vamo.

I found this online too:

Should I stop using them now?

Edit: I already know the answer to that but I guess I was hoping someone would tell me I'm not looking at the right info. Anyway, it's going to be an expensive month this month, this shopping list is growing fast.

 

[VaperCaper]

Which batteries you need depends on what you are using them for.

If you are sub ohming then you *NEED* batteries than can handle the current draw. No if's no buts.

If you are building coils that are 1.2ohms or higher resistance then the batteries from the bike light are going to do fine. If you're using protected cells then it's highly likely that the protection circuits on the battery will trip before anything bad happens.

If you're using a regulated mod then IMR cells are better than ICR cells.

If you're planning to run sub ohm coils, then just get cells than can handle 30A current draw and be done with it. (Then make sure your coil builds come in at no more than 20A draw.)