Batteries for low/sub ohm builds

[sparkyjuice]

It's all about the conductivity, solid gold would be best then silver then copper. Look for single tubes so that there is no threads to hinder the flow at all, also look at pin upgrades to either solid silver or silver plated copper

Sent from my HTC One using Planet of the Vapes mobile app

actually its silver copper then gold

 

[sparkyjuice]

Ive heard copper mods have a habit locking up if over tightened, RIP Tripper on YouTube had his top cap lock on him. Thanks for reminding me about that, maybe ill go back to the panzer!

Got copper nemesis hits hard but very fragile

 

[marcus-mulisha]

Got copper nemesis hits hard but very fragile

Yeah dude, I've heard and read the copper mods hit like a freight train.

 

[sparkyjuice]

Yeah dude, I've heard and read the copper mods hit like a freight train.

Soft threads though kid gloves time
Copper is a very soft metal
Panzer hits very hard too but made of stainless makes up for this with good connections and big tubes for good metal to metal contact


Sent from (who cares) using Planet of the Vapes

 

[marcus-mulisha]

Soft threads though kid gloves time
Copper is a very soft metal
Panzer hits very hard too but made of stainless makes up for this with good connections and big tubes for good metal to metal contact


Sent from (who cares) using Planet of the Vapes

i think I'll go for a panzer first off and then look to get MCV copper mod overdose . . . It looks awesome!

 

[VeeDubZ]

actually its silver copper then gold

My apologies, I miss remembered that one lol

Sent from my HTC One using Planet of the Vapes mobile app

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Most of the time all you really need are clean contact points. There is absolutely no need for solid copper mods other than the look. Most voltage drop occurs on the threads of mods, poor machining on the threads means more voltage drop. Brass is fine for contacts but copper is best no need for gold or other exotic metals, just clean and (conductive) lube the threads, clean your contacts (510 & Switch) and clean you batteries and you too can have a hard hitting mod...

 

[marcus-mulisha]

Most of the time all you really need are clean contact points. There is absolutely no need for solid copper mods other than the look. Most voltage drop occurs on the threads of mods, poor machining on the threads means more voltage drop. Brass is fine for contacts but copper is best no need for gold or other exotic metals, just clean and (conductive) lube the threads, clean your contacts (510 & Switch) and clean you batteries and you too can have a hard hitting mod...

Cheers for the advice buddy!

 

[Dennis]

If your unsure about this, you really need to ask the questions, without being melodramatic, getting it wrong could result in death or dismemberment.

You need to understand how your coil resistance relates to the current draw on your cell so you can assess weather firing that coil with that cell is safe.

This is absolutely no shit seriously important. Sub ohming is just as safe as any other kind of vaping, IF THE VAPER FULLY UNDERSTANDS WHAT THEY ARE DOING. If they dont, its as potentially lethal as a loaded gun.

You need to know and be able to work out

Coil resistance and how it relates to current draw on your device.
Amp limit on your cells and if your buipd is within those limits.
Difference in icr and imr/inr (inr is samsung cells, accept they are imr) and hybrid cells and how each applies to your usage.

Indications of an unhappy cell/build (hot button/tube indicating shorts) and what to do vis a vis when to either rip the mod apart or throw it in one direction whilst running in the other.

This all sounds scary because its meant to, lithium cells going bad is really not something to fuck about with, I happily vape sub ohm on every device I have in circulation, my most used rig is a .3ohm dripper, but I know that is within the limits of most of my cells, I have lower limit cells that are only good for 10a or .6ohm builds, they are extremely good cells but they have their limits so I stay within them. You need to know both your cell limits and what your builds will draw so you can tell if your vaping safe or not.

You only need be concerned with constant current, forget the pulse bullshit, thats a stupid assumption to make, if your above constant current dont fire it.

Actually, I had misread your post and had, at the time, thought you meant more amps current would never hurt as opposed to higher amps of battery capacity for whatever amps one's build happens to draw..

Sorry if I came across as melodramatic..was trying to be funny.

As for what you actually said, yes I agree. I myself had to stop using my Panasonic NCR1865PF batteries once I began building below 0.45 ohms as these are limited to 10A.

As an aside, an easy way to find out the very, very minimum resistance that one's batteries are safely capable of running is to go to any ohm calculator and enter the batteries' maximum constant current in the appropriate box and 4.2V. You'll get the maximum power available and absolute minimum resistance possible without them blowing-up on you.

For my current build, I'm at 0.2 ohms and pushing 21A on freshly charged batteries at 88W.
Had to buy Sony US1860VTC4 30A IMRs. These batts are beasts.

 

[fridgemagnet]

Copper mods - copper tarnishes quickly, so the threads are going to be a weak point as regards conductivity - unlike stainless.
Switch design is an important factor, as are connections generally. .......it's the weakest links that determine the strength of a chain, not so much the material it's made of...