Fogger - feck up!

[brighton guzzi]

Chaps - I need help please.

I have a Fogger V3, only got it yesterday and have had problems with it and now I'm in deep do-do!

I took it apart - like you do when you can't get something to work, got the bottom apart using mole grips. All of this was going well, no real issues until I lost a bit on the floor. We've searched high and low, mainly low as its on the floor but can't find it, I even got the dog to come and have a sniff, greed bugger found a cake crumb but that's all!

Anyway, the bit I lost is the plastic or silicon sleeve that goes around the air intake tube. I'm not sure of its exact size - kinda difficult to get a measure when its flying through the air, but I reckon its a sleeve, about 2-3mm long and about 1m across. It sits atop the air intake tube where the tube goes into the deck.

Any idea if there is a replacement or a fix out there? I've wrapped a sliver of insulation tape around the tube for now, not sure if it is working.

Shrink wrap?

It's important because the air in take tube connects to the bottom firing pin so needs to be insulated from the deck.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cheers

 

[Vern]

I'm not taking mine apart to check, but form memory..those things that go on the bottom of evod coils...viva nova coils and so on...you should be able to butcher something up from them

 

[Bubba]

in my spare parts pack from my agi tank/dripper there is a piece that resembles what your talking about, my fogger is full up at the moment with juice so i can't compare it.

only thing i would do otherwise would be centralise the pin in the deck with some ptfe tape and then put some heat resistant cooker glass mastic/silicone in an old syringe and set in in place. thats the very piece it needs to stop it shorting out so only attempt it if you can test it. you can get the heat and oil resistant silicone in small tubes from a good hardware shop, its made for fixing the glass panels into cooker doors.

like this stuff

http://ovendoorglue.co.uk/clear-heat-resistant-glue/?gclid=CKW1wPXB5bsCFQcTwwodjDcABg

 

[brighton guzzi]

Vern & Bubba - thanks gents for the reply.

Question - could I strip some insulation from electrical wires and use that? Does it need to be heat proof as it only shields the air intake? It needs to be a tight fit to stop juice getting by but heat proof?

I don't have any old evods or vivis to take apart......

Thanks

 

[Bubba]

The original part is a silicone and also heat resistant, i suggested the heat proof mastic as it gives of no contaminants as its used for inside cookers where your food is ect. the base does get somewhat hot as the heat from the coil travels down after prolonged use, the last thing you want is for whatever you use to go soft and end moving about causing a short. this stuff is sure to do the trick. it is there to seal and insulate the positive pin. you may get away with a piece of insulation off of a socket feed 25a cable. its pretty heat resistant if thats to big try the thinner light switch feed wire insulation. these wires are firmer than the ones in a flex lead with a plug on so would hold better i would imagine. good luck. bub